Advice on running gear

[Gillaspy2005]

Hi all looking for some advice if anyone can spare the time.

Recently got myself a 3d printer, flashforge adventurer 5m pro, other half been telling me for ages to "just get one, uou know you want to!" As usual she was spot on the money!

After messing about with a few prints to learn spme basics I've downloaded the e100 from inkor. Printing it out and i have to say I am addicted, its superb. The files from rc3dtanks are simply brilliant. Im learning a lot and its a whole new world opened up!

The question i have is about the running gear. The roadwheels are to be attached with screws and separating washers lubricated, how well does this work? Is there a lot of resistance? Has anyone modified and used bearings etc? Any advice here before i spend days printing them?

Any help much appreciated

Thanks

Dave

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[Tiger6]

I always have to import the wheels into CAD and make my own bearing pockets - which is a chore because what ever potato grade modelling package he uses generates some really gnarly stl's that Fusion does not like to work with.

[Gillaspy2005]

I always have to import the wheels into CAD and make my own bearing pockets - which is a chore because what ever potato grade modelling package he uses generates some really gnarly stl's that Fusion does not like to work with.

Yeah i tried to use fusion and its not allowing me to convert to solids without upgrading. I made some negative pockets in orca slicer which will let me drop some mini bearings in but trying to figure out some smooth shaft m3 axles is stumping me a bit.

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[Tiger6]

I have the full fat comercial licence which probably gives me more options, but its still painful. Depending on how detailed those wheels are, I would be tempted to drop the mesh in as a reference, and then recreate them natively in fusion.

[john1970]

don't forget to download the flat faced turret so you can make 2
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various ... upp-turret

[tankme]

I updated the wheels with bearings right in my slicer without CAD. Bambu (Orca) slicer has functions to do this through "adding" negative areas. I did a quick video showing how I do it. Once the first wheel is done, you can clone the wheel and print as many as you need with the bearing pocket.

phpBB [video]

[Gillaspy2005]

I updated the wheels with bearings right in my slicer without CAD. Bambu (Orca) slicer has functions to do this through "adding" negative areas. I did a quick video showing how I do it. Once the first wheel is done, you can clone the wheel and print as many as you need with the bearing pocket.

phpBB [video]

Now that's awesome. Great minds and all that! Precisely what I did in orca too! Ill be saving the video to make sure I dont forget. (When I say its precisely what I did it took me 4 hours to figure it out after downloading freecad and deciding it was far too complex!)

Printed out a test piece with the pocket a few days back, really pleased with how it came out. I've only had the printer 2 weeks!

The bit I am struggling with is what to use for axles running gear and how it all ties together. I found some miniature bearings

https://amzn.eu/d/3tYqmtg

Was thinking to use some shoulder bolts as well.

Can I ask what yoy have done with the axles etc and if you have any pics etc to help me visualise it.

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[tankme]

Those bearings look a little big. Inkor's designs are mostly standardized on M3 size screws. I just use M3 screws either countersunk or cap head. Both work just fine. The screws just need to be long enough to go through the wheel and about 5-7mm into the swingarm. Not really a need for shoulder bolts. Using a shoulder bolt would probably mean you would need a larger diameter bearing. I find that some wheels are even a tight squeeze for the 6mm OD x 3mm ID x 2.5mm thick bearings that I use. If you used PETG, it holds threads pretty well. I typically run an M3 tap through the swingarm before threading the M3 screw in from the road wheel side into the swingarm. Just make sure you don't over tighten them or you can strip the hole, but if you have a threaded insert you can fix a stripped hole. My IS-4 build log on this server shows the cap screws on the wheels: viewtopic.php?t=34154.

[Gillaspy2005]

Tankme, tank you, thats great. I will have a look for some of the bearings and do exactly what you said.

Unfortunately I cant view the build thread pictures for the is4 and also your maus thread as it won't let me see them in my region over here in the uk. Not sure if its a setting my end of on a hosting site you are posting the pics via. Could you share a pic on a direct image upload on the thread here?

Thanks for thr help again, really appreciated.

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[Art Hogus]

The question i have is about the running gear. The roadwheels are to be attached with screws and separating washers lubricated, how well does this work? Is there a lot of resistance? Has anyone modified and used bearings etc? Any advice here before i spend days printing them?

I use roller bearing shoulder screws with heat inserts, like this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007 ... 1802etjgQ4
PETG plastic is smooth enough to work as the bearing itself, but you can use brass bushings too. For a 1/16 scale, it's more than enough.