Cannon fire switch.

[Tankbear]

Hi Scalawag,

I've found the instruction (from the link) in email format. If you still need them PM me your email and I can send across. But it is basically as strmnd54 has posted.

Ian.

[scalawag]

Hi Tankbear,

Thanks. I think I have the info I was after for now.

Thanks again for the offer, and if I do need any more info i'll get in touch.

cheers

Paul

[MichaelC]

Hi Michael,

With the HL RX18 if you apply 0v (battery negative) to the 4 pin (from left) on the CN3 port it triggers the fire sequence (recoil, flash, sound). So unless taigen have done something slightly different and switched pins 4 & 5 around it should work. Also try the diode both ways incase you have wrong way round as I’ve done that a few times as well.

The way this mod works is basically the RX18/Taigen use common positive and everything is switched in the negative therefore when you push left stick up it creates 0v (to power the recoil/airsoft). So with the diode we just cutting that out and using the 0v to trigger the firing sequence directly.

One thing I didn’t like with this mod is there is no delay between firing, so if you don’t let go of the left stick quick enough it double shoot, recoil.

Anyway keep us posted on how you get on.

Ian.

Thanks Ian. I definitely tried switching the diode around as I have done that a few times as well and it didn't work. I don't think I tried Pin 5 on CN3 instead of Pin 4 so I will definitely do that when I have time this evening. I am also going to try to do it directly between the two pins rather than tracing it back to the 8 pin patch boards just in case I missed something along the way. I will just pop the connectors from the plugs and make a two pin connectors with the diode in the middle.

I guess the initial delay with the Airsoft/Recoil between firing is the motor winding up before the firing pin hitting the microswitch. Once I get this going I will decide how bad the double firing is. Right now I would trade anything for the stupid motor sound/clicking when I don't need it even for recoil.

[Tankbear]

I put the diode externally using spare 2 pin plug and slicing into fire wire.

The double firing is much better than the noise of the airsoft.

Ian

[scalawag]

Hi all,

I just got in from work and picked up the diodes on the way home. I have just tried this and can confirm that on the taigen 2.4Ghz board it does not work on CN3 pin 4. It does work if you wire it to CN3 pin 5. Diode direction as in the diagram.

Works great and the double recoil does not seem to be a problem. On the Taigen board if you hold the left stick up the tank will recoil for the first shot, but after that you only get the sound. Not sure about the flash as I have to get a flash unit for my tank now.I will update when I have fitted a flash unit.

Hope this helps.

Paul

[Tankbear]

Great Paul glad you got it working and was simply Taigen been slightly different with the pin arrangements.

On mine with the HT flash I think it does flash every time but not bright as the capacitors doesn't fully charge up between fires.

Ian.

[MichaelC]

Perfect guys........ I will try this tonight when I have sometime. Save me rigging up another connection.

scalawag, getting rid of the recoil on the second shot is a "feature" for most folks ! I will let you guys know what happens since I will be retro fitting this into a full functional tank tonight (flash, sound and hull recoil are all working right now). I am using the high intensity flash and MAKO but it shouldn't be a problem I hope.

[scalawag]

Hi,

I know what you mean about the track recoil MichaelC but I am one of those who really doesn't mind it too much, and I think a real tank would rock on its suspension a bit when the main gun is fired. Maybe not as much as the HL track recoil but a bit I would have thought.

Anyway I have now done this with all 4 of my tanks. I have also disconnected the BB gun motor on each (cut the red wire at the motor for now). If it is not disconnected it will still run as normal, and I am not sure but I think the track recoil seemed a little erratic when the BB gun was still running. Micro switch is disconnected too by the way.

I intend now to get high intensity flash units for all 4. When I get those I will do a more thorough job with the bb gun wiring.

Really pleased with this now it is done, the tanks now fire the main gun when I hit the switch and not after the bb gun motor has wound right back and tripped the micro switch.

Let me know how you get on with the HI flash units.

Cheers

Paul

[MichaelC]

Paul,

You and me brother....... I love the track recoil ! I only got into ATRC because on some of my tanks the recoil is so strong that it takes away the realism (i.e. the whole main gun shakes). I only put in ATRC for the tanks where the track recoil is not "realistic". I actually have about 4 tanks for some reason (gearbox/motor combination perhaps ?) where the track recoil is actually very realistic and I would leave them stock.

Clark board has the option of adjusting the track recoil which I loved. Will let you know what happens with the high intensity flash once I tried it out tonight. thanks again for the "advance" work !

[MichaelC]

Paul, Ian, this worked like a charm. Love it ! I have couple of tanks that doesn't have recoil for various reasons (conversion that I didn't bother SU-100/SU-152 and Airsoft KT/JT from Heng Feng) so I am going to fit this into all of them and take out the Airsoft unit altogether. Thanks ! BTW, the SU-100 I did tonight is a WSN T34/85 chassis with Taigen/MAKO/ATRC electronics and high intensity flash. Everything works as expected. I just hack this one for now (i.e. patched the diode between the two 8 pin patch board) but the next one I will crimp both ends to JST plugs and actually replaced the pin plug into the MFU so it is neater and you can tell there is a diode mod.