Project Panzer III N ...

[Pak36]

This will be my first attempt at an RC tank build, so I don't plan on rushing it

Ordered my self a HengLong Panzer IIIL today, but officially it isn't mine until Christmas, so in the meantime I plan on assembling a few addons and planning the rest!

I have gone for the basic model without the 'metal' gearboxes and tracks, mainly because I planned on adding slightly better parts and couldn;t see the point in paying the extra for bits I would most likely take off straight away. I did, however, make sure it had the RX18 unit inside.

So far, I have added to my pile a set of Taigen 4:1 metal gearboxes to slow things down and a set of Mato closed pin metal tracks and metal sprocket and idlers. Don't know yet if I will go for metal wheels, but I definitely want to add metal suspension arms to the thing soon as.

The plan is to go for an L converted to N, rather than a late model factory built unit, so I can keep the double hatches etc.

Can't wait to get properly stuck in!

[wibblywobbly]

I did one one of these. First thing that I discovered was that there are very few photo's of Ausf N's in existence. Many claim to be this version but they aren't. As you know it was the last of the line, and there were few genuine N versions about.

I seem to recall around 30 detail changes to mine, but it is as accurate as I could make it, including the single hatch. I also went the whole hog and installed Elmod and low ratio Asiatam boxes, servo recoil, plus the IR battle system, and the Asiatam metal hull and wheels.

[Pak36]

I have seen a couple of different barrel/mantlet setups, which is confusing.

I have a Tamiya kit version, which retained the stock mantlet and the space armour...but I have also read that the space armour was deleted from the mantlet to save weight. Which is as you have it above.

I also know that there were conversions to N spec done on J, L and M models as well as new builds....so some of the pictures will show the older style dual hatch instead of the last model single one.

My Tamiya kit has a PzIII mantlet....which I am 100% sure is wrong, as every reference I have says the PzIV mantlet and gun assembly were fitted complete...

I also have pics with the co-axial gun plated over

I think, when all is said and done, that there is no hard and fast rule when it comes to this particular design. The important thing is to keep it consistent.

I am planning to fit a stock HL PzIV 75mm gun mantlet ( the F2 one looks closest to me) but I suspect I will have to sort my own barrel out as I want to retain BB firing. I also have a spare PzIII gun shield, so I can plate over the MG if I want, and swap back if I think it was a mistake!

My reference material isn;t too bad. I got some pics of a bunch of late model N's surrendered in Norway, plus some other pics of intermediate models. My Tamiya kit has been abandoned as a reference, as I just don't think it's accurately modelled.

[Pak36]

Been doing a load more reference checking.... and have reached some design decisions.

1) Checked...my 1:35 kit is actually the Dragon M/N kit, and it seems this is almost certainly wrong. The mantlet should not have spaced armour on. I have found a few places that claim pics of spaced armour, but I can't find any. All my reference works show none. This means cutting up the mantlet on my PIII to remove the spaced armour.

2) Conversions were done from J,L and M .... but if I want an M then I should use the later PZIV ( G on )style Cupola along with single hatches. Best examples of this are the restored N at Bovington plus the pics I have of surrendered III N's in Norway which were later used for mine clearing. Means relocating the lights etc. to bring it to M spec...but would also mean I could use the lovely late brass/metal exhasut system I was looking at the other day! Otherwise...I could go for a J conversion and not have to swap anything much.

3) If I go early...no Shurzen. If I go for a M late model, then most likely it would have some degree of Shurzen fitted, and should also probably have Zimmerit too on certain areas like the front mantlet and turret Shurzen...but that would only be on very late models.

I am sort of leaning towards the earlier model versions...as I have a really nice pic of one in Tunisia decked out with lots of detail...or else replicate the Bovington one

[Pak36]

Got to call this progress

Lots of goodies landed on the mat today.

1) Pair of Taigen 4:1 gearboxes. Look to be very nicely made too for the money. Gears are well formed and do not rub or bind. Shafts sit nicely in the bushes and it all feels nice. £30 off E-Bay from Panzer Command.

2) Set of closed pin tracks and metal sprocket and idler. £40 from the same supplier and also very nice! The tracks are nicely put together and come with a couple of spare links/pins. Move nicely without slop and are finished in black rather than the bare metal of the 'pro' Heng Long ones. Sprckets need a little tidying to fit well. The sprockets are in 2 halves which peg together. 4 pegs...one larger than the others. The pegs will need a small amount of filing so the halves are a snug fit. Otherwise...very well moulded.

3) New mantlet shield. Stock one...for modding. I want to add a few details, but did not want to screw up the stock parts just in case. Only cost a couple of ££ so I figured why not!

4) Ordered a PzIV gun mantlet from Forge Bear. Very helpful guy. Will be chopping this up to make the space-armour-free mantlet I want for my chosen version.

Going to enjoy this

[Woz]

Before you start chopping the mantlet-

*

*image "Squadron/Signal Publications inc - In Action 024 - PzKpfw III"

I did mine without as it makes it look different-

[Pak36]

This is the thing....

There are lots of references with no spaced armour, and just a tiny handful with. I guess I want to build mine without just to be awkward and because it involves a bit more work I could just chop off most of the barrel, and call it done....but for me, the whole idea of modifying my tank is the challenge. I have a picture reference I like, and the challenge is to make the model look like that.

There are lots of 'definite' authorities on WW2 German armour, but I reckon in practice things were a lot more improvised. You have a PzIII with a 50mm pop gun, and a wrecked 'N' .... so you graft the gun on and you have a servicable battleworthy tank. It's not 'official' ... but in war, I reckon you would do what you had to do in the service depots to keep the things fighting for as long as you could

[Pak36]

OK...l.it's all systems go on the project now. Short one camera at the moment, so pictures will have to be added later.

1) Opened up my new toy, and began surgery. First up were the Taigen 4:1 metal gearboxes. Really nice bits of ket these for the price. Have proper bearings on the output shafts, unlike the stock all bushed affair. Three screws to undo each stock box and the gearboxes were a straight drop in fit. Everything lined up perfectly. The black metal gears are all well machined and everything turns smoothly. Quick tidy up of the wires, and the top when back on.

2) Mato tracks. Seem very nice too. Come with a pack of extra links, and one extra was needed to get the length needed. It's too short as it comes, but with one extra link it looks better. Haven't adjusted the tensioners yet...which I will leave until it's running. Need to do a bit of tweaking to the supplied sprockets before fitting though. Front sprockets are supplied with a set of hex bolts too large for the hole. Quick drill out and all is well. The rear idlers are floppier than I will accept, so they will get a bit of shimming before I am happy.

One big question though...

How are the outside parts supposed to be attached to the inside parts of hte metal wheels. Should they be glued? The front sprockets have a hole so if you fix inner and outer halves, you can still get at the hex head...but the rears do not. Do I just press fit them?

Anyways...that aside...it's going swimmingly well. Drives nicely!

Have had a good chance to look at what needs changing and improving...and the list isn't too long.

Hull side:
Remove moulded on horrid tools and replace with nicer metal ones with brass brackets.
Remove moulded in escape hatches in hull sides. These were only fitted to early J models, and need to go for mine.
Remove stock extra track links and make new brackets into which lengths of the stock plastic tracks will go.
Make or buy some extra stowage boxes and some bags etc. for decoration!
Sort the exhaust....I want the smoke to come out the pipes...not from some random place in the back of the hull. Only seen a metal late model Ausf M pipe or solid metal J pipe, so I may need to make my own. Love a challenge.
Relocate the antenna

Turret:
Need to mod the cupola a fraction. Might get a metal one...but stick to the 2 door hatch. Stock cupola doesn;t line up when locked in place and leaves the hatches on the skew. Not leaving it like that.
Add extra track links on the turret top and hang some tin hats on.
Modify mantlet and gun barrel to suit

Then we spray her matt sand

My chosen vehicle was snapped in Tunisia...so no fancy cammo...just some suitable weathering and dirtying