Cannon fire switch.

[Tankbear]

Hi guys could do some help with electronics.

At the moment I have the airsoft gun complete with microswitch and flash unit fitted, therefore I've taped over the airsoft loader so cannot be used as I have the flash up the cannon bore.

I'm wanting to disconnect the airsoft as I don't want the noise. But that will stop the flash unit from triggering. So thinking of bypassing it by using a transistor controlled by the airsoft motor/trigger to activate or close circuit on the flash circuit. But need to build in a delay so gives the realistic reloading time.

This is as far as I've got since my electronic knowledge is limited. so would appreciate some advice.

Ta.

[Dietrich]

Hi Tankbear, :~
I am just thinking out loud here as I am not familiar with this style of airsoft gun.....
But how about removing the 'Airsoft' firing cylinder the part that acts like a plunger in the hypodermic syringe then you could remove the large spring at the same time..to cut down on the noise,this will mean that the motor will run much more quietly as it is not straining to compress the spring.....as far as a delay for reloading, I am not quite sure what you mean, so I will put this in as a guess.................how about using a gear wheel high up in the drive train that will be moving slower and either modify it or extend it through the casing to fit a cam wheel...this could then activate a switch on one of the cheap little digital recording modules and this could play the sound of a large calibre gun being reloaded

I got mine from Radioshack dealer in the uk, this is a link to the item in the USA
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2102855" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is this of any use to you ??

[Tankbear]

Hi Dietrich.

The airsoft gun in my tank has a micro switch in it so when the motor has tensioned the spring as it releases to fire it triggers the micro switch and activates the gun recoil, sound effect and flash unit. So removing the parts I would think stop it working.

The time delay i'm on about is between firing, in the airsoft version it is the time to retension the spring. So even if I kept the left joystick up it fire short delay fire etc. If I skip that and just put in a trasistor (or something) it fire constanlty like a machine gun which isn't realistic.

Suppose an alternative to the time delay is have it so when push the left joystick up it only fires once. Therefore would have to return to nuetral then push up each time to fire.

Sorry if I'm not making much sense I have an habit of badly explaining stuff and because I know what I'm on about think everyone else does.

[Dietrich]

Hi Tankbear, :~
Ok now I understand a bit better.....but are you talking about one of the new recoiling action airsoft units...?? because I thought that the new unit did NOT actually recoil itself, it just made the tank twitch on its tracks the same as the main gun button on the controller ?!
Please can you clarify that point and then I can try and help you from there... :~
Alb

[Tankbear]

the new unit did NOT actually recoil itself, it just made the tank twitch on its tracks the same as the main gun button on the controller ?!
Alb

Yes, that's what i've got.

[Dietrich]

Hi Tankbear, :~
Thank you for the update. Firstly do you want a proper Recoil uint to fit INSTEAD of the airsoft gun ?? They are very easy to swap with just a few screws and a bit of soldering.
If you are not happy with this then another other option is to 'Gut' the airsoft uint completely...remove the motor the gears and all the airsoft plunger etc....Do not worry about the microswitch, I will cover that in a minute. You will need to leave the airsoft housing or at least the top half so that the turret elevation works as the housing carries the spring and the elevation arm on the back of it. If you can remove all these parts then you can probably fit a real recoil unit.
If you are totaly unsure of the electrics and removing the airsoft gun then what we can do is just 'Rewire' the airsoft gun. It is activated by 2 wires that power the electric motor when you push the left stick forwards on the Remote Control unit. You will need a small 6 Volt relay ( 6 volt relay wil easily cope with 7.2 Volts so do not worry )or you may be able to use an automotive one as some will work happily at the 7.2 volts instead of the 12 Volts.
Now for the modification .....The 2 wires from the airsoft gungun are soldered / connected to the two coil terminals on the relay...it does not matter which way around as all it needs is for current to flow through the relay to make it work. Remove the two wires from the microswitch and solder / connect them to the actual switching part of the relay. All is now finished !
Once this is done as soon as you push the left stick forward, power will flow through the 'Airsoft- gun' wires and will close the relay, as soon as the relay is closed the tank will recoil on its tracks as the micro switch circiut will be powered up.
The only thing that you will have to be careful of is that you do not hold the left lever up for more than a fraction of a second as the relay will work instantly and if you leave it 'ON' the tank will recoil continiously. So a quick flick is all that will be needed.
If you are unsure about any of this, just ask....of if you like I will email you a couple of drawings to try and make it clearer, please ask and I will happily supply you with any more and all the help that I can.
Do not worry about asking questions and it is NOT a problem that your (Quote) ' since my electronic knowledge is limited'
Alb. :~

[Tankbear]

Cheers Dietrich,

I'm ok with electrics it's the electronics I'm limited.

What you've suggested is a good alternative to the electronic route I was thinking of. To expand on what you put if I put another relay in series this one with normally closed contacts. So have old airsoft motor wiring going though relay coil of normally open contact (as you said) then through the switch contacts of the second relay then through relay coil. That way as soon as the left stick is pushed up it activate both relays, the first causing tank recoil, noise, flash. the second relay open circuit the trigger circuit. Therefore only have one shot no matter how long the left stick is pushed up.

I'll have to have a look in the garage to see what old car relays I have available later tonight.

[Dietrich]

Hi Tankbear, :~
I think that you mean to use a change-over relay. ( Normally open with the contacts numbered 30, 87 and 87a, with the relay contact moving between number 87 and 87a depending on power to the coil.)
This means that as the power from the 'airsoft motor' passes through the normally open contacts it then flows on to operate the second relay with the Flash Unit and Recoil 'Twitch' then on to 'Open' the first relay and so ensure a single shot.
Basically you use the second relay to open the first which cuts the power to the second relay in a feedback. I LOVE relays they are great bits of kit......but in this case I am a bit worried that the instant of power supplied before the relays cut themselves off might be a bit too short to operate the systems....my main concern is the flash unit....I believe that it takes a whlie to charge but I must admit that I have no idea how it works...If it only needs a momentary signal then it should all work fine.
Its going to be a matter of test it and see if it works....
With the Automotive 12 Volt relays you may have to check one or two as not ALL brands will operate at our level of 7.2 Volts.Trust me on this one as I have tried a few............ As you say...Electrics NOT Electronics...I can make you a wiring loom for a Motorcycle or a Trike.....but these damn small components have me puzzled once you get about about 3 or 4 of them.
I am just building a 7 Volt supply unit for the Fuel and Temp gauges on my bike and it has only 4 components to solder....which is a relief.....and its MUCH cheaper than buying one from Honda
Good luck M8 and if you have anymore questions or run into problems let me know and I'll see what I can do !
Alb.

[Tankbear]

I think the flash unit charges up before hand and just discharges at same time as the tank recoil and sound. So hopefully shouldn't effect it. I let you know how I get on.

[Dietrich]

Hi Tankbear,
Thanks for that and good luck with it.
Alb.