Making molds

[Saxondog]

I have been waiting for some casting supplies, this is the link.They offer tutorials on all products. But a first hand demonstration would be a bonus.I WILL ADD THIS,it is expensive for these materials. And it can be dangerous as this is a controlled chemical reaction. But I WOULD WELCOME SOME DEMONSTRATION and Guidance on this subject. But do remember dynamite is simple to control,until you drop it on the floor and the floor goes away.


https://www.alumilite.net/index.cfm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Saxondog

[Rogue Sub]

Well I just reordered 2 more gallons of alumilite rc-3 and a gallon of smooth-on omoo 30 to resupply. Let me pick out a few parts and get things together and Ill document and write things up. Just remember there are tons of products out there. I am just going to show the ones I find are the best bang for the buck for the hobby enthusiast and the easiest to work without the use of pressure pots and vacuum chambers. I can however show you the most cost effective way for attaining those as well.

Now as for the legality of what you use this for... I personally only reproduce products with direct permission of the person who made them or that I have made myself. In my mind it is just the same as stealing when you replicate or reproduce to sell. Some of these products take time to make and people expect to make some cash at it or they wont do it any more. However, there are no laws that I am aware of that prevent you from cloning a product for yourself but, there are ones out there to prevent you from reselling the same product especially when a copyright violation is involved.

[Saxondog]

I wan't to point out the products I'm making have never been on the market,their one of a kind made for my Tanks systems and Dietrich's tanks systems. I agree with R/S and when and if I sell a part you will know it is a unique mold design. Also the cost is considerable, hey R/S Post the cost of a gallon of RS3 OR CHECK THE LINK GUY'S this stuff is expensive to purchase,and use. Outside or inside careful,wear safety glasses when mixing and pouring. One air bubble in the face and your done. I will leave the rest to the man,Rogue sub.

Saxondog.

[Johnf]

THE RUBBER I USE IS SAFE MIX RATIO 100 GR RUBBER TO 4GR HARDENER. TWO GRADES OF RUBBER. ONE FOR RESIN ONE FOR WHITE METAL. RESIN RUBBER IS SOFTER BUT BETTER DETAIL. IT VULCANIZES AT ROOM TEMPERATURE OVER ABOUT 24 HOURS. NO HEAT NO SPLASHING. DO NOT EAT IT WEAR SURGICAL GLOVES AND DO NOT WEAR BEST CLOTHES AS A BIT MESSY AND DOES NOT WASH OFF.

SORRY I CANNOT ADD PHOTOS OF PROCESS AT PRESENT.
TO MOULD SOME SMAKK ITEMS I MAKE A TWO PART MOLD. SIMPLE WAY
LEGO BASE AND SOME BASIC RECTANGULAR BLOCKS. MAKE RECTANGLE WITH THE BLOCKS ABOUT 10CM 7CM INSIDE. WORK PLASTICENE INTO THIS TO FILL TO THE TOP. NO GAPS AROUND THE EDGE. TAKE THE IUTER YOU WANT TO MOLD. IT HELPS TO ADD A RELEASE AGENT TO THE MODEL AT THIS STAGE. FIRMLY AND EVENLY PRESS THE ITEM INTO THE PLASTICENE. USE EXISTING MOLD LINES AS A GUIDE. (MODEL SHOULD BE WELL CLEANES BEFORE YOU START AS YOU WILL COPY IMPERFECTIONS ALSO) USE A MODELING TOOL TO WORK THE PLASTICENE TO WERE THE MOLD LINE WILL BE. TRY TO MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT TRAP DETAILD WHICK MAY BREAK THE MOLD. YOU CAN USUALLY FIT MULTIPLE PARTS IN ONE MOLD. MAKE SAUSAGE SHAPE WITH PLASTICENE 1.2 CM DIAM SPLIT DOWN THE CENTRE AND PLACE WHERE YOU WANT TO FILL FROM. FROM THIS YOU WILL NEED SOME CHANNELS TO THE MODEL. WHEN YOU ARE HAPPY YOU SHOUL ADD RELEASE AGENT OVER THE PLASTICENE SO THAT RUBBER WILL NOT STICK TO THE PLASTICENE.

BUILD ANOTHER TWO LAYERS OF BRICKS.

THEN TIME TO MIX THE RUBBER. FOR THIS SIZE I USUALLY GET THREE MOLD HALVES WITH 150 GR OF RUBBER. POUR RUBBER INTO PLASTIC CUP ADD HARDENER AND STIR INTO RUBBER AVOID AIR BUBBLES. WORK FAST NOW BUT DO'NT PANIC AS RUBBER IS ALREADY GOING OFF. IF WORKING WITH A DETAILED ITEM I USU AN OLD BRUSH TO PAINT THE RUBBER INTO EVERY RECESS. THEN POUR RUBBER INTO MOLD, POURING FROM 30 CM IN A THIN STRING INTO THE MOLD REDUCES BUBBLES. WHEN EXPOSED MODEL COVERED AND RUBBER SELF LEVELLED GIVE MOLD A FEW TAPS TO RELEASE BUBBLES END LEAVE TO VULCANIZE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. IT NEEDS AT LEAST 24 HOURS BUT POSSIBLY LONGER AT WINTER TEMPERATURES.

WHEN CURED CAREFULLY DISMANTLE BRICKS AND PEEL THE PLASTICENE FROM THE RUBBER AND MODEL WITHOUT DISTURBING THE MODEL FROM THE RUBBER. WHEN FULLY CLEANED REBUILD THE BRICK WALL AROUND MOLD APPLY RELEASE AGENT AND POUR SECOND SIDE OF RUBBER. WHEN CURED SEPERATE RUBBER HALVES AND REMOVE MODEL AND ANY POUR LINE FILLERS AND YOU ARE READY TO CAST. SIMPLES

[wibblywobbly]

If you can add advice on the strength of resin/metal parts that would be most interesting. I think many of us would like to make parts, but have no idea of which materials would have the strength required for certain applications, eg sprockets, road wheels etc.

Rob G

[Johnf]

Hi wibbly Wobbly.
Most of my casting was for display models. I got a lot of my metal from a company based in Ireland called Prince August. They do a number of metals and I think they export worldwide. The more expensive metals are softer but offer excellent detail. The cheaper would probably be best and strongest for larger items like wheels. Last time I looked they were offering the liquid rubber for molds also. The rubber supplier I was using was selling metal with a high zinc content. Did'nt suit my needs but was perfect for somthing like a sprocket wheel as it was really hard metal. Best thing is to find a molding supplier. They deal in larger quantities and are cheaper. I am away from home at the moment so do not have the contact details of the supplier I use. Cannot find their website. Called RPM, based in Clondalkin, Dublin. They have some helpful leaflets. When I get home in Feb I can contact them for information. They can probably advise re other suppliers. Resin is easy. Comes in two parts 50/50 mix. This stuff cures in minutes. Actually need to work fast as it will go solid in the cup. Resin is quite cheap compared to the other items. 1 kg of liquid rubber is about 60 euro. To make this worthwhile you need to want items in large numbers or do as I do and share cost with friends. I thought about molding stuff for tanks but did not bother as there was nothing I need in such quantities. It was more cose effective to buy the patrs. If you build a lot of models it would be great for tools and small detail parts. Great for a club.

http://www.princeaugust.ie/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

they have 2kg of rubber for 85 euro. the rubber in their molds is quite hard and tough. they have plenty of items to get you started. For 1/16 scale the standard metal they produce is best. model metal for detail. model metal is softer and melts at lower temp.

[Rogue Sub]

Dear admin

I originally posted this in the general section to get a feel for what you guys want. since then it has flourished and already taken off. Could you please split and move the thread?

RS