Armor Texture

[Panzermechaniker]

Yes Monsieur Tox is correct in saying not to armor texture the rolled steel sections on your Jagdtiger. However the thick front plate of the casemate and the huge mantlet were both cast and that will give you more than enough of an area to do whichever armor texture technique you choose to use. The depressed seam that Torro put in on the sides where they have the casemate joining the lower hull has to go though as that was all one smooth piece, there was no seam. Where I'm loving the dissolved putty is for producing the cast part textures say on the M4A3 Sherman I am doing. The transmission cover and the large cast piece where the drivers hatches are really came out great using it

[tankme]

Nightshift admits that he does stuff to make his models more interesting to look at and not necessarily "correct". I use the Mr. Surfacer for some stuff and the glazing putty with acetone for others. Depends on how much texture I want. The red glazing putty lasts a long time.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

"Dang that thing is super high quality thanks for the tip!" Thank you for the kind encouragement. When I look at the photos of the T26E3 now, I wince at both the clunky texturing and the fact that I don't think that I have improved my skills and more. Sigh.

[Shameless86]

"Dang that thing is super high quality thanks for the tip!" Thank you for the kind encouragement. When I look at the photos of the T26E3 now, I wince at both the clunky texturing and the fact that I don't think that I have improved my skills and more. Sigh.

I know what you mean by wincing when you look at previous work.... but I think you at a level where its small degrees of improvement.... because your so high up!!! Thats maybe why you feel you that way. To me it looks professional grade. Luckily for me Im in the early part!! Where the things im learning are making MAJOR improvements hahahaha!!!

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

[MrChef]

Nightshift admits that he does stuff to make his models more interesting to look at and not necessarily "correct". I use the Mr. Surfacer for some stuff and the glazing putty with acetone for others. Depends on how much texture I want. The red glazing putty lasts a long time.

I've used Martin's methods for the most part. Most notably on cast parts like mantlet's. I have used the Tamiya putty slurry with airbrush cleaner to finish smooth surfaces of rolled armor like the sides and upper hull on Tigers.

I used the red glazing putty on the last Tiger for the first time but I never thought of using it for texture, that's a great idea. The Tamiya putty does a great job but is quite expensive in comparison. I already thought I was winning with the hack of the airbrush cleaner but the glazing putty method sounds even better.

I think I got the idea for the red glazing putty from you guys too. It wasn't easy to shop at any autoparts store for either. I found it at Wallymart.

[Shameless86]

Bear in mind that rolled plate has a fairly consistent surface barely discernible from smooth at our scale.
I used super glue smears quickly using an old plastic card to create surface finish but not as much as cast material would be.

Exact, I like what Nightshift is doing but I don't agree with how he reproduces rolled steel. Should be smooth. He says he takes pictures from Museum tank as reference but most of them have the steel damaged by rust, sandblasting, sometimes you can see paint chips under the paintjob etc... And it's not how the steel was originaly. Just take a look at the Panther G assembled under British supervision. Never seen combat, always been preserved, we can say it's brand new... and it's as smotth as a baby ass (not the cast parts obviously).
That's why I may sand all the textured job I made on my Tamiya KT (Tamiya textured the turret so I tried to match that on the hull... and they stopped texturing their rolled steel plate on the next kits for a reason...) and on my Tiger I... I think you should not add it on your Jagdtiger, or very slightly...

I agree with what your saying 100%. When i recently visited Fort Lee VA I noted how much texture the elefant had on the side. And then thought well I guess so!! It sat outside at aberdeen for many years! I saw one shot of her before the current restoration. She was rough! Valid points made by all in this post regarding the smoothness of the rolled plate.

Torro puts small dimples and what knot on the case mate I might replicate that somewhat. Im definitely gonna see what the super glue texture looks like maybe on a scrap piece first. After all I am trying to learn new techniques!

I think ill shoot for accuracy, especially in this instance where its simplifies things!!

Thanks for the input!!

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

[Shameless86]

Nightshift admits that he does stuff to make his models more interesting to look at and not necessarily "correct". I use the Mr. Surfacer for some stuff and the glazing putty with acetone for others. Depends on how much texture I want. The red glazing putty lasts a long time.

Roger that, I dont hate that... making them more interesting. Im not ready yet to attempt one without an "artist's license". I feel like all my research is heading that way though.

Thanks for the tips. Ill have to play with the different stuff. Figure out how it all acts and what prefer! Also where and when to apply!!

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

[Shameless86]

Yes Monsieur Tox is correct in saying not to armor texture the rolled steel sections on your Jagdtiger. However the thick front plate of the casemate and the huge mantlet were both cast and that will give you more than enough of an area to do whichever armor texture technique you choose to use. The depressed seam that Torro put in on the sides where they have the casemate joining the lower hull has to go though as that was all one smooth piece, there was no seam. Where I'm loving the dissolved putty is for producing the cast part textures say on the M4A3 Sherman I am doing. The transmission cover and the large cast piece where the drivers hatches are really came out great using it

Oh yeah!!! I never thought of the front of the casemate being cast as well!!! Hmmmm perhaps something there!!

Ive started smoothing out the seam between the hull and casemate torro provides for you. Ive sanded that skim layer of putty i put on there. Not sure Im in love with the results. We will see!! Thanks for the input!



Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk