TongDe M-113 A.P.C. - Asking for any/all Ideas from those who also have one, or even just want one

[Marc780]

I see these now launching on Ali.
Might even get one myself one day & see what can be done.
The options are almost endless, but one option springs to mind

UKRAINE M113.jpg

Oh, Mr B, please do.

Marc780. Your paint looks amazing.

Thanks it's just Vallejo Olive Drab, I'm going to fill in those holes for gluing accessories to the side. M-113's in Vietnam didn't often carry stuff on the sides of the track, probably since driving through brush would just tear it off.

[Marc780]

So far i've weathered the tracks some and started spraying various patches of O.D. and faded O.D. (an actual color from Mission brand paints is O.D. Fade, plus Fade 2 and Fade 3).

I used several shades of rust on the tracks. The tracks on this A.P.C. use rubber blocks in them, and those are always painted black.

I sent off for a bottle of white and two of black, the idea being to lighten and darken the olive drab and spray in patches and "clouds" over the base paint. And as used in Vietnam, every image I've ever seen of an M113 at war was painted solid Olive drab. No camouflage patterns were used on American M-113's, or at least none I've ever seen. But our erstwhile allies the ARVN ("Army of the Republic of Vietnam") also used the M-113 and some of those had a camouflage pattern applied - but there was no standard or "official" camo pattern to go by, most were apparently created on the spot immediately when the guy who had the paint showed up.

Anyway I figure the only way to weather a solid color is to vary the shades of it, so that's what I'm doing. I paint in small subdued streaks, mostly vertically, to match how the real thing would wear especially when exposed to a tropical climate like Vietnam. The important thing is to do just a little then stop and inspect how it came out (before laying on more)!

I decided to not add the side gear accessories that come with the model and just filled in those holes. In the images of the M113 at war, like I said there's usually nothing hanging off the sides of the track (probably because of dense brush they often operated in would tend to squeegee off anything sticking out). Since American G.I.s tended not to hang things on the sides, I won't do it on mine, either.

[tankme]

It's amazing to me how bad a company can make a product look by painting it and then how good a modeler can do painting it. I would say if you are trying to make it a Vietnam era M113, you might want to ditch the external fuel tanks on the back. The M113A2 first introduced those and the A2 was developed after Vietnam ended. If it matters that is.

[jhamm]

Hello,
pictures from inside:

TD-M113f-29102025-006.jpg (124.36 KiB) Viewed 174 times

TD-M113f-29102025-007.jpg (132.13 KiB) Viewed 174 times

TD-M113f-29102025-008.jpg (108.03 KiB) Viewed 174 times

[Herr Dr. Professor]

For what (little) it's worth. Maybe the M113s in 'Nam were of a slightly different OD from that used in WWII. Tamiya makes an "Olive Drab 2" in spray cans. My former two-tour USMC friend says the Olive Drab 2 is "prettier." Now how's that for scholarly research?

[Marc780]

To everybody posting their images of their M-113's, many thanks! Which reminds me, IF you want one of these models (Tongde M113) don't get the one that comes without the gun shields, like I did! Same goes for the metal road wheels and metal tracks. The "metal" M113's are maybe a hundred dollars more - but buying the parts separately isn't an option. Even if you decide you don't want the gun shields, they are easy enough to remove them or just not install them. But if you want the gun shield later, like I do, you can't even buy those parts separately. The only way to get the gun shields, is to buy the APC that already has them!

[RobW]

What difference does the gunshield version have to the one without? Other than some extra "spares"?

[tankme]

What difference does the gunshield version have to the one without? Other than some extra "spares"?

It seems TongDE has followed the bad habit of Heng Long and Hooben with using the wrong nomenclature. The one with the gun shield is a Vietnam era M113 vehicle, but TongDE has it labeled as an A1 version which could be possible I guess since the biggest difference would be the engine type. The one without the gun shield is an M113A3 post Vietnam vehicle because it has the external armored fuel tanks denoting an A3, but TongDE has it labeled as an A2.

Versions:


M113
Original version, powered by 209 hp (156 kW) Chrysler 75M V8 gasoline engine.[59]

M113A1
Starting in 1964, the gasoline engine was replaced with a 215 hp (160 kW) 6V-53 Detroit Diesel engine, to take advantage of the better fuel economy and the reduced fire hazard of the diesel engine.[59][60] The suffix A1 was used on all variants to denote a diesel engine, i.e. an M106A1 was an M106 mortar carrier equipped with a diesel engine.

M113A2
In 1979, further upgrades were introduced. Engine cooling was improved by switching the locations of the fan and radiator. Higher-strength torsion bars increased ground clearance, and shock absorbers reduced the effects of ground strikes. The weight of the M113A2 was increased to 11,740 kilograms (25,880 lb). Because the added weight affected its freeboard when afloat, it was no longer required to be amphibious. Four-tube smoke grenade launchers were also added. The suffix A2 is used on all variants to denote upgrade to A2 standard.[61]

M113A3
In 1987, further improvements for "enhanced (battlefield) survival" were introduced. This included a yoke for steering instead of laterals, a brake pedal, a more powerful engine (the turbocharged 6V-53T Detroit Diesel),[62] and internal spall liners for improved protection. Armored fuel tanks were added externally on both sides of the rear ramp, freeing up 0.45 cubic metres (16 cu ft) of internal space. The suffix A3 is used on all variants to denote upgrade to A3 standard.

[Exhibitedbrute]

As an answer to your weathering question I tend to use dry pigment and a make up brush on mine and apply lacquer or water where I want to seal or make it run. In this link there are a few of my weathering attempts viewtopic.php?t=34364

As well as some ideas for chromed items.

If I want just a dust effect I seal, if I want mud and runs effect I spray with water.

I used the same technic when I white washed my kv-1 just white primer the while wet sprayed with water to make fade and run

[RobW]

Thanks tankme. Are those extra fuel tanks glued onto the base hull as supplied or on the sprues?