Renault FT17 in 1/10 scale

[Art Hogus]

This is a fantastic build!

Thank you

I love the way you're post processing your 3d prints, parts look so clean!

It is well well-designed model, including how the parts are oriented for 3D printing to minimise lines visibility. Also, I'm printing with 0.1mm layers and ironing. It is slow but gives you good surface quality.

The Renault FT always has been a fav of mine, yours is going to be stellar.

I've seen FT17 first time in the museum in mid-eghties, when I was11-12 years old, and I became obsessed with it, even seeing it in my dreams. Unfortunately, there haven't been any models or much information about it. So it is an old dream come true .

[Art Hogus]

Art: that compliment from MonsieurTox is noteworthy: he's a master modeler. Wow! And Alan is right: how did you accomplish the metallic look of the tracks? Double WOW!

Thanks .
With the metallic look, it actually was relatively simple. I printed it in 'silver" plastic, so it already looks quite metallic after printing. On page 3, there is an example of unpainted tracks and a turret.
I'm usually applying PETG glue, brushing it quickly over the plastic with an old flat brush to seal the plastic and glue layers together for extra strength. After the glue dried, I applied a second layer with a tapping motion to create texture. Plastic becomes shiny already.
After that, everything is kind of standard - a layer of dark grey paint/primer over the chipping medium, heavily chipped to create a worn-out impression. Then it was all covered with dark brown enamel wash to create a rusty look. The final step is drybrushing with Tamiya chrome silver acrylic for polished steel shine.
Contact surfaces on the top of the tracks it is pretty much bare plastic with dry-brushing over.

[Bujinkan]

Hello I am interested in your modification of the model
I still have to get a quote for the 3d printing firm
Kind regards
Daniel

[Herr Dr. Professor]

"[A] layer of dark grey paint/primer over the chipping medium, heavily chipped to create a worn-out impression. Then it was all covered with dark brown enamel wash to create a rusty look. The final step is drybrushing with Tamiya chrome silver acrylic for polished steel shine." I do not have a 3D printer, but this part of the sequence you wrote will be helpful to me and others. Thank you!

[Art Hogus]

I do not have a 3D printer, but this part of the sequence you wrote will be helpful to me and others. Thank you!

FT17 tracks are simple and easy to print, so I used a metallic-looking plastic in case the paint would wear out; it still looks like steel tracks.
For any other plastic or resin with a different colour, I would add a few extra steps first - prime it, cover with metallic-steel paint, and protect it with gloss acrylic varnish before applying chipping medium.
My favorite acrylic varnish was the Future, but unfortunately, its production was discontinued in Australia and New Zealand. If you could get hold of it, I would highly recommend it.

I'm building Pz.III in parallel, when I'm getting tired of FT17, I'll be printing with resin for its tracks and use the steps above for paint.

[Art Hogus]

Hello I am interested in your modification of the model
I still have to get a quote for the 3d printing firm

If it's your first model and you don't have much experience with scale modeling, I would recommend focusing on building it as it is. For some intricate small parts, you need an SLA resin printer.
I'm not doing 'rivits counting' but still trying to match model to real prototype as much as reasonably possible. You probably wouldn't notice the difference between my mods and the original model.
Can you see much difference between the model and the photos?

[Art Hogus]

Drivetrains are fully assembled, so I can now focus on finishing the hull.

[Art Hogus]

Some small details

[Art Hogus]

And I've got the inspector visit for work approval. .

[Stormbringer]

The inspector looks happy with what youve done