Small lathe ? questions

[maker1966]

Hi Ive notice a lot of very well-made engineering (metal) projects on here and would like a bit of advice ?info.
I'm looking to purchase probably a shirline or Unimat (2nd option used), I was wondering if any uses either or these and what are the true limitations as per model making, I only require one for smaller parts as I do have access to something larger but have to travel and would preferrer smaller one for pretty small parts, I really like the look of the old unimat and the added bonus of the small milling attachment maybe could be a benefit at home, not sure how capable these are and most of the flat stuff I complete on my 3040 which is slow but fine for most projects, I also make replica fishing vessels only up to 1/12 scale (display only) and these have some small brass work. I could see an advantage for working on these.
I'm not a great poster as yet here and maybe feel I could have got off to a start on the wrong leg (hmm)
so any help for a new user would be most welcome.
If this is the wrong area, please correct me.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

I am eager to find out if others have such a goodie. I do not have such a lathe, but one of the regular Tuesdays-at-my-house "Make Modeling Mediocre Again" modelers scrounged one up at a flea market, and he loves using it for all kinds of model railroad scratch building.

[tankme]

I have a metal lathe, but I'm really bad at making anything on it so I'll probably not be of much help.

[MikeN]

I'm not familiar with the Unimat or Shirline lathes so I looked them up.
I'm a retired engineering machinist (fitter turner) and have spent all my working years using industrial size lathes and mills. I spent the last 30ish years building 5" gauge steam locomotives ( we used to get quite long tea breaks at work) but latterly have been making tanks at home.
Anyway, looking at the Unimat and Shirline they do seem rather .... Small.
Even though they theoretically may have the capacity for what you want to make, I think you might find them rather frustrating to use. Unless you plan on making watches.
The first time you go to make that 88mm gun barrel youll probably find it's just too big to fit!
Not sure how these small machines cope with turning steel. Probably ok for brass.
Usual advice is to buy the biggest lathe you can find space for.
Maybe one of the many 920 clones which are popular with model engineers.
Also , I would recommend a machine with a proper key operated 3 jaw chuck. I don't like those chucks with the knurled locking ring.

Mike

[ColemanCollector]

I had a Unimat 200 sitting in my shop for years before having one of those epiphanies--who am I kidding? I'm never going to learn how to use this thing!
They are definitely for making tiny parts and it was a jeweller who bought it from me. Other than jewelry work, they seem popular as desk ornaments as they are pretty intricate and cool looking. As Mike says above, get the biggest you can fit in your workspace.

Mike.

[Pavel]

I have been using a BD-3 clone for many years....
A great little machine, I bought professional cutters for it and sharpen metal, plastic, wood...
If you have a little money, buy the original, there is no need to correct minor flaws of Chinese craftsmen...

[Pavel]

I also turned the barrel on this machine for the Merkava, all the rollers, removing the unevenness... A lathe is a necessary thing in the arsenal of a modeler!

[RobW]

I've been looking at one of these www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0CF94BYPF (can be found cheaper elsewhere but the basket is convenient).

What I'm also looking for is some means to drill relatively large holes (5-10mm) in plastic without needing a full sized drill press. But I want more precision than me wobbling away with a hand drill. Micro mills look to stop at about 3.2mm and I can't see any larger diameter cutting tools on small shanks.

For the gun barrels would I need to machine the whole thing, or would it be safer to make (mill, lathe or print) shorter sections to slide over a steel rod/tube?