Hello all, I have a Elmod pershing and a Panzer III Not Elmod both with 3 to 1 gear set. with the rx 18 board. Would a 10 amp fuse be enough to safely guard both against damage?
I do not battle but I take them off road often. I try not to bind the motors but never can tell waht can happen.
Thanks for the help.
Be well,
David
Re: Fuse/Breaker
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This section is for posting helpful Tips and Tricks only. Questions need to be posted within general questions section viewforum.php?f=14
This section is for posting helpful Tips and Tricks only. Questions need to be posted within general questions section viewforum.php?f=14
Re: Fuse/Breaker
Hey David,the US electronics wizard is the Blitz.He knows elmod in and out.his store is rctankwars.com great guy will give you the information you need.Now understand I am not saying we don't have some smart guy's across the pond,it's just I was on the phone with the blitz today about an order and after reading your question he came to mind.If you want I can give you his phone number,as far as elmod it's way over my head.and considering the history of this thread I don't want to offend anyone.Sax
Urban dictionary-SAXONDOG-derogatory term for anglosaxon people
Re: Fuse/Breaker
Can I throw this into the mix, I am using three in-line fuses on my Tiger which has a RX -18 Board. One to each of the motors 3.1 g/boxes fitted with 3amp quick blow fuses and one from the battery to the board 5 amp QB fuse. I was mentioning this to WW a while back when he was having trouble with his RX-18 board. The result is no more blown/cooked boards. Yes, I have blown a couple of fuses, but I was trying to. The tiger has a lot of metal and it took a lot of punishment before the fuses popped.
I appreciate some people, are running HL boards with out any issues, but this might help others who are having problems.
Cheers
STEINER
I appreciate some people, are running HL boards with out any issues, but this might help others who are having problems.
Cheers
STEINER
Last edited by STEINER on Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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wibblywobbly
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Re: Fuse/Breaker
The thing to remember is that when you read the spec for a motor it will tell you the standard amp draw, the loaded amp draw, and the stall amp draw.
For the motors that we run you are looking at 3 amps under normal running, and it may go to 5-7 amps up a steep incline, but if you get into long grass, get a stone in the tracks, anything that locks the tracks and stops the motor turning while it is still being powered...that draw can go up to 20 plus amps. It is this that usually blows boards.
What can also happen is that long running, perpetual inclines, super spins on grippy carpet etc pulls higher ampage for a long time. Whilst that ampage won't blow the board straight off, it generates heat. Heat is the big enemy of circuit boards and components. Perpetual high heat, and subsequent cooling, makes alll the solder joints expand and contract, and integrated circuit chips contain fine filaments. It does not take a lot of abuse to bring the tolerance of an otherwise reliable board to the point where it simply starts to break down the circuits. One day it will stop for no apparent reason, and with no scorch marks.
Remember that we are talking Chinese mass produced toy tanks here. These boards were never designed to cope with what many of us throw at them, and it is remarkable that they survive as long as they do.
The advice re fuses is sound, and though I haven't done it myself yet, the safest route on a HL board is one fuse on each motor (it they can't pull too many amps through the board), and one fuse on the battery so that the board can't pull too many amps. Overkill maybe, but certainly the cheapest way to save the board from frying.
Fans are fitted by many, though airways need to be clear around the board to ensure that hot air is ducted away and cold air ducted in.
The RX18 is enclosed in a case. I cut most of the back off, and the entire area covered by the silver label. I held a casing once after running a tank and it was hot! I may even go the whole nine yards and remove the case completely, and mount it on stand offs.
The Elmod kit is protected by a 10amp fuse, but then again they are designed to run 12v. They are not indestructible though as I know only too well !!
Hope this helps
Rob G
For the motors that we run you are looking at 3 amps under normal running, and it may go to 5-7 amps up a steep incline, but if you get into long grass, get a stone in the tracks, anything that locks the tracks and stops the motor turning while it is still being powered...that draw can go up to 20 plus amps. It is this that usually blows boards.
What can also happen is that long running, perpetual inclines, super spins on grippy carpet etc pulls higher ampage for a long time. Whilst that ampage won't blow the board straight off, it generates heat. Heat is the big enemy of circuit boards and components. Perpetual high heat, and subsequent cooling, makes alll the solder joints expand and contract, and integrated circuit chips contain fine filaments. It does not take a lot of abuse to bring the tolerance of an otherwise reliable board to the point where it simply starts to break down the circuits. One day it will stop for no apparent reason, and with no scorch marks.
Remember that we are talking Chinese mass produced toy tanks here. These boards were never designed to cope with what many of us throw at them, and it is remarkable that they survive as long as they do.
The advice re fuses is sound, and though I haven't done it myself yet, the safest route on a HL board is one fuse on each motor (it they can't pull too many amps through the board), and one fuse on the battery so that the board can't pull too many amps. Overkill maybe, but certainly the cheapest way to save the board from frying.
Fans are fitted by many, though airways need to be clear around the board to ensure that hot air is ducted away and cold air ducted in.
The RX18 is enclosed in a case. I cut most of the back off, and the entire area covered by the silver label. I held a casing once after running a tank and it was hot! I may even go the whole nine yards and remove the case completely, and mount it on stand offs.
The Elmod kit is protected by a 10amp fuse, but then again they are designed to run 12v. They are not indestructible though as I know only too well !!
Hope this helps
Rob G
Tiger 1 Late
Panther G
King Tiger
M36 B1
Panther G
King Tiger
M36 B1
Re: Fuse/Breaker
I think what WW has said is sound advice. Fit a fan or cut the case (RX-18 ) and fit the in line fuse holders and you have the best protection you can get to prevent blown/fried boards.
Do you realize how much I hate this uniform and all it stands for. ( Cross of Iron )
Re: Fuse/Breaker
This may be overkill but I added some extra cooling.The bottom fan pulls air through the case the top fan blows air in.Saxondog
Last edited by Saxondog on Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
Urban dictionary-SAXONDOG-derogatory term for anglosaxon people
Re: Fuse/Breaker
Thats a " Cool " Tip, Sax 
STEINER
STEINER
Last edited by STEINER on Sun Sep 20, 2009 9:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
Do you realize how much I hate this uniform and all it stands for. ( Cross of Iron )
Re: Fuse/Breaker
Thanks Saxondog, Phil did my Elmod and I talked to him about this. He has helped me in the past and has done it again. Thank you for the response to me.
Be well,
David
Be well,
David
