Re: Fuse/Breaker

Norse · Post by **Norse** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 7:39 pm

Idea of this post is to show you guys how to make a 5 or 10amp Fuse to protect your circuit boards from burning out

its an INCREDIBLY simple idea to prevent damage.

Basically you get http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=444 one of them or similar (Inline Fuse Holder) and connect it on the postive of the battery, it then uses standard car type blade fuses that can be 5, 10, 15 20 or 30 amps.

10amps is the "max" the Elmod Afterburner gives with its fuse system, this is replicating the fuse system to in THEORY prevent burning out boards

5amps and over is usually what kills a stock RX13/14 etc

Use a 5 amp one in it and it SHOULD be ok. Please note this is mostly a theoretical Mod based on my understanding of electronics and the HL boards.

Edit

You could also use http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=10140 ones that are 3amp or 7.5amp though it'll burn out the 3amp VERY easily under stress (the HL boards start failing at 4-7amps)

sfstu · Post by **sfstu** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 7:47 pm

the idea is perfect if it works...?!!! dunno anything bout electronics myself but there are plenty of experts out there who can clarify...
hope it works, simple but so easy to do..!

nice one mate..

rgds stu
p.s.would the fuse breaker(s) not need to be between motors and board as these seem to be the common cause of release of magic smoke from board..?

Mackem · Post by **Mackem** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 10:44 am

That's an excellent tip.

Nice one
John

fv432 · Post by **fv432** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 5:40 pm

I take it you still havent learnt any form of etiquette yet but i am pleased you left out the fact we are all retards
that is the reason i objected and as i told you via pm it will not be tolerated

Kind regards Rob

Norse · Post by **Norse** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:21 pm

Please could you explain your reason for trolling and why you felt the need to call my electronics crap when its EXACTLY what your House Fusebreakerr, Plug socket fuse etc does.

and sfstu its done on the positive of the battery so it cant send too many amps to the board, if its on the motors it'd just stop the motors getting to many amps (and still result in blown board)

BREL · Post by **BREL** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:23 pm

between the battery and board is best because I lost an ESC in a truck because it and the motor were drawing too many amps

Jolteon · Post by **Jolteon** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:30 pm

tiger205 · Post by **tiger205** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:59 pm

do we really need to put up with morons like cole?, clearly he/she aint got the melons to say it face to face to norse, as far as i can see(clearly farther than cole) what norse has posted here and on previous posts, is good advice, so why are you here pestering decent people? havent you got any friends of your own to annoy?, probably not, people like you usually dont have friends, for obvious reasons, so i suggest you crawl back under the rock from where you came

Tony

Norse · Post by **Norse** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:13 pm

Just replying to post some info about the ampage of a RX14 i have found

"the fets are capable of maybe 8 amp s (tho they may need cooling to sustain that for long periods). The TK-RX13 board s have transistors which are only rated to 3 amp s...so a big difference" found on the RCU forums

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_78612 ... tm#7865775

fv432 · Post by **fv432** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:22 pm

Norse you dont need to explain mate most here think the idea is sound and definatly wont kill anyone(anyone with a gcse in electronics knows that 7.2v at 10-14 amps cant kill you LOL)

and i have had a lot of complaints about coles post so with that i will remove it again and norse if you could do the same on the "Quoted" portion of your reply it would really be appreciated

please people disagree by all means just keep it friendly as 99.9% of us do

Kind regards Rob