[D-DAY] My Tiger 1 Normandy build

[jarndice]

Unfortunately the metal drivers hatch hinge snapped while masking it for priming so I'll probably fix it closed

I would not fix it shut, Instead I would give the area where the hinge is glued a very heavy coating of Glue Debonder,
Remove the broken part and after ensuring the area is free of debonder,
I would then glue the base of a replacement hatch hinge in place.

[cmryanuk]

Dont set the hatch closed mate, get another pair & refit the busted one.
Its worth it

OK sounds like a better idea. I don't suppose anyone sells the hinge part as a separate item?

[cmryanuk]

Unfortunately the metal drivers hatch hinge snapped while masking it for priming so I'll probably fix it closed

I would not fix it shut, Instead I would give the area where the hinge is glued a very heavy coating of Glue Debonder,
Remove the broken part and after ensuring the area is free of debonder,
I would then glue the base of a replacement hatch hinge in place.

Glue debonder. Thanks, I'll find some

[cmryanuk]

Hi all who are following this thread. I've been pm'd by Kaczor who wants to move the topic to Group Builds in the D-Day section to commemorate the 80th anniversary. I've agreed so please follow along there.
Cheers, Chris

[cmryanuk]

Progress update. After priming in red oxide I've applied 2 coats of dark yellow (Tamiya XF-60).

I'm really pleased with the track cable tie downs with resin wing nuts that I painstakingly drilled out to put on the threaded brass. Unfortunately I need 4 more for the rear clamps, which are now on order from E Europe.

So tonight onward with second base coat of dunkelgelb.

I also received 2 replacement Taigen metal hatch covers and periscope. They're more detailed with lock mechanism so I removed both of the current ones and once the paint has cured will fit them

[Ad Lav]

I like the bent fenders and side skirts.

Remember to paint the chipped off zimmerit sections.

[cmryanuk]

Definitely and thanks fir the positive comment. I'm going to give it a dark wash first to bring out details, then work on the damage.

I would appreciate some advice as to how to add creases to the exhaust fenders and stowage box. I felt the fender bending was quite risky using a lighter.

[MrChef]

I would appreciate some advice as to how to add creases to the exhaust fenders and stowage box. I felt the fender bending was quite risky using a lighter.

Nice work here. You're giving me ideas for my Mid war Tiger, but I have to finish my current Tiger and then the Kursk unit.



Hairdryer+needle nose plyers+flat nose plyers



There are several ways to achieve the bends and I don't even think mine came out that great but I did get some good advice from Mr. Bix for the holes.

Modelers of smaller scale will use a rotary tool and remove plastic from the opposite side to make the plastic weak for bends and creases that closer resemble metal. I tried it. One issue I had was that the Heng Long Cancer-Plastic is thick and it takes quite a bit to remove what I thought I needed to.

Using my wifes old Pro hairdryer that heats up like Hell with lots of mean pointy things allowed a more gradual bending. Just learn from my mistake, Do Not Let the Metal Tools Heat Up or they will leave uneven marks like you are branding it with a hot fire poker. If you heat the plastic gradually it becomes very easy to bend and contort.

[cmryanuk]

Thank you MrChef, that's great advice. I'll try tomorrow.

Meanwhile I'm making the lightweight cable. I bought 0.8mm brass picture wire from Ebay which holds its shape. I've then cut off the end loops of the Tamiya plastic cable and drilled them out.

I've also encountered another problem: one of the swing arms has stripped a thread and I'm trying various ways to fix it. I'm trying gluing in a plastic tube from a cotton bud but it's a bit thick so I couldn't get the grub screw started. A bit more head scratching required here.

[jarndice]

if you carry out a little research you will discover that the Tank track recovery cables have a unique pattern that changed annualy. '