Haya Australian Centurion Mk5/1
- Estnische
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
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- Location: Wollongong, Australia
Re: Haya Australian Centurion Mk5/1
Those videos are meant to fill the gaps not covered by the RTR manual.
- tankme
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Re: Haya Australian Centurion Mk5/1
Since I do own the kit and have been trying to assemble it, my question is why doesn't the kit come with any manual? And if you aren't going to provide a manual, at least put a PDF of it up on the website so I can download it. Until this point, I didn't even know there was a manual for the Cent. My Haya Chieftain came with a manual.
But I'm derailing his thread so no need to answer any of this in this thread.
But I'm derailing his thread so no need to answer any of this in this thread.
Derek
Too many project builds to list...
Too many project builds to list...
- Estnische
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- Location: Wollongong, Australia
Re: Haya Australian Centurion Mk5/1
Eagle-eyed readers might have noticed in an earlier post that there is a gap between the driver’s hatch and the hull opening.
Also, when the hatches are open, the opening has square corners instead of rounded ones.
So, I added an extra trim around the drivers hatch to create a lip and fill the gap.
While accurate on the outside, the Haya road wheels do not look right when mounted as spare wheels. Raminator very generously made some for me that will take the Haya rubber tyres and I made some so-called Omega brackets in brass. (Who would have thought the Armoured Corps knew their Greek alphabet?)
Now I have spare wheels to work with, I can make the front glacis mounting points.
The back side of spare wheels on peacetime Centurions were painted Olive Drab Lustreless to match the hull colour. Despite the grubby conditions, a close look at Vietnam photos show they were still in Deep Bronze Green from the UK stores cache.
Apart from adding some minor light and cable fittings, the upper hull could finally be painted. The hull colour will darken once I can apply some Tamiya Dull Clear – there seems to be a shortage of Tamiya supplies in Australia at the moment.
Also, when the hatches are open, the opening has square corners instead of rounded ones.
So, I added an extra trim around the drivers hatch to create a lip and fill the gap.
While accurate on the outside, the Haya road wheels do not look right when mounted as spare wheels. Raminator very generously made some for me that will take the Haya rubber tyres and I made some so-called Omega brackets in brass. (Who would have thought the Armoured Corps knew their Greek alphabet?)
Now I have spare wheels to work with, I can make the front glacis mounting points.
The back side of spare wheels on peacetime Centurions were painted Olive Drab Lustreless to match the hull colour. Despite the grubby conditions, a close look at Vietnam photos show they were still in Deep Bronze Green from the UK stores cache.
Apart from adding some minor light and cable fittings, the upper hull could finally be painted. The hull colour will darken once I can apply some Tamiya Dull Clear – there seems to be a shortage of Tamiya supplies in Australia at the moment.
- Ecam
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Re: Haya Australian Centurion Mk5/1
I know they are little details, but great work on those hatches and wheel mounts. Build is coming along wonderfully!
"Don't believe everything you see on the internet" - George S. Patton
Eric
Eric
- Herr Dr. Professor
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Re: Haya Australian Centurion Mk5/1
I hope this is not too far off topic, Estnische, but you and so many others here on RCTW are masters at forming brass details. I want to do some ventilator guards out of brass wire for my T26E3. Do you know of some YouTube or printed instructions or demonstrations on forming brass? (Hey, anyone who can pronounce "Wollongong " or ones close to me, "Waukesha" and "Mukwanago," can come up with the Alpha and Omega. )
- Estnische
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Re: Haya Australian Centurion Mk5/1
Thanks again Eric for the kind words.
Doc - I doff my cap to anyone who can pronounce ‘pedagogy’ without pausing. I went to the University of Wollongong, so I find the Monty Python sketch at the University of Woolloomooloo quite entertaining, if a little jarring these days.
Woodwork and metalwork are mostly about muscle memory between your hands, the tools and the material. I am reasonably competent with metal, from practice that started with workshop classes at high school. But wood is a material I struggle with.
I recommend getting one of these photo-etch folders and some brass and start practising.
PS - only Kiwis can pronounce ‘Whakatāne’ correctly.
Doc - I doff my cap to anyone who can pronounce ‘pedagogy’ without pausing. I went to the University of Wollongong, so I find the Monty Python sketch at the University of Woolloomooloo quite entertaining, if a little jarring these days.
Woodwork and metalwork are mostly about muscle memory between your hands, the tools and the material. I am reasonably competent with metal, from practice that started with workshop classes at high school. But wood is a material I struggle with.
I recommend getting one of these photo-etch folders and some brass and start practising.
PS - only Kiwis can pronounce ‘Whakatāne’ correctly.
- Herr Dr. Professor
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- Location: Southern Wisconsin USA
Re: Haya Australian Centurion Mk5/1
Thank you for the video links! I have them loaded up to watch after I sign out. I have done some work with photo-etch as well as some paper modeling in 1/48th. Photo etch is not so bad as many say. Paper modeling is for people who are young and don't shake.
Here's the fruit stand on my O Gauge train layout (the fruit and figures are resin): Here's the octagonal crossing tower of Milwaukee Road design, supplanted by a modern signal controls box:
Here's the fruit stand on my O Gauge train layout (the fruit and figures are resin): Here's the octagonal crossing tower of Milwaukee Road design, supplanted by a modern signal controls box:
- Estnische
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
- Posts: 1065
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:52 pm
- Location: Wollongong, Australia
Re: Haya Australian Centurion Mk5/1
Nice work!