1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 Patton tank with ERA - Build

[lmcq11]

Some more pics for the guys who might want to do something similar.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The model as it stands today.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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[lmcq11]

Hi,

Continuing with the build.

These are most of the part provided by TONGDE to add to the hull. They are simplified and have some resemblance to the parts they are representing. The hooks are molded in, looking like elephants.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The frontal tow bracket should look like this, image of the AFV Club part and references, to which a shackle or hook is attached to the smaller hole.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The model part could have been modified for reuse but i decided to canibalize them to recover the hooks. These are difficult and expensive to get on the market. Here, i can get some for free. They are removed from the bracket using the Dremel, then slowly carved and reworked to make them standalone parts for reuse.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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These are the hooks after some clean up. The shape looks good.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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From the AFV CLub kit, these are the other brackets that need to be reproduced.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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For the hook that goes on the glacis, i was able to cut and reshape the TONGDE part and give it a base.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The shape of the hook next to the engine deck is totally wrong, misplaced and can be discarded.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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It can be easily done with 2mm plasticard.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Continuing on following post

[lmcq11]

The front and rear brackets supporting the fenders have holes that are extremely visible. I decided to reproduce these.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Notice that on the right side, there is a comm or an electrical box held with a bracket attached to the 3 bolts of the engine cover.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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View of the situation on the model.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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I quickly decide to remove everything. The bracket is not high enough for reuse, is too thick and the fake box embedded in the right mud guard just created more work as i will have to fill the void.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Same situation on the left side. This is the right time to plug that little hole for the hook at the bottom.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The frontal fender support bracket is molded in with the bin.

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I quickly removed it with a cutting disk on the Dremel. Need to be extra careful not to damage anything in the process.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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As for the middle fender brackets, they are deep into the fenders and extremely difficult to reach for rework. I still haven't decided what to do with them but they won't remain as is.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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View of the AFV Club part for the front and rear fender brackets that need to be created. I used these 1/35 for specs, extrapolated to 1/16.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Note that the frontal bracket needs some space. It is not positioned directly against the bin.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Continuing on following post

[lmcq11]

I quickly made a plan and draw a graph for the two types of fender brackets required, with one spare each.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Two smaller drill bits are used to create a small hole approximately where a larger hole should be. Forget about using a full size drill bit to create the hole directly of the right diameter, the large bits will just tear apart the plasticard and you will never be able to do this part.

I used the following method; the larger holes will be created very slowly using the sanding bit that you see on the picture. First attached to the Dremel, then to the drill for slower adjustment. It does not cut the plastic, it kinds of slowly melts the plastic depending on the pressure applied to the V shaped bit, and it does it very precisely and cleanly. When a hole gets towards the right diameter, move to the next, then come back for more adjustments in relation to the 4 holes in sequence. This process took about 30 minutes in total for 4 brackets.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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After another 10 minutes of fine tuning, i have my core brackets made and they ready to be cut from the plasticard plate for further refining.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The brackets after more refining, done on both sides. Sometimes, a specific hole needs to be moved in some direction because it is not centered, the correction is done with the bit while each hole is slowly reaching its required diameter. Then the holes are slowly polished by hand on both sides using the bits. These are extremely fragile parts and extra care is needed.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The finished fender brackets ready to be mounted on the hull. They are not perfect but close enough. Someone more patient can achieve perfection.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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View of all the parts that i created over the past couple of days.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The rear tow brackets and hooks are installed over the holes that were properly located. The hooks are moving loosely.

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The holes for the frontal tow brackets were badly located. The holes need to be filled, and the brackets positionned like this.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Continuing on following post

[lmcq11]

Those brackets are difficult to make, the shape is not easy. Did my best.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Positioning of the hooks on the glacis.

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Positioning of the frontal fender brackets.

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Positioning of the rear fender brackets and engine deck hook.

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The three large embedded bolts heads for holding the engine deck have been removed.

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They are being replaced by M1.4 brass hex bolts with washers.

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They are removable as i will need to unscrew them later to install the other bracket for the electrical box above the fender.

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Continuing on following post.

[lmcq11]

A couple more pics.

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Next step is to continue work on the fenders, taking care of support bracket 2 and 3, plug that hole at the back, put in bolts heads here and there, add some putty, etc. And yes, i am thinking of completely redo the back engine plate.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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The model as it stands today.

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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Regards, Louis

[TIGER RAMPAGE]

Amazing work Louis!!! I’m really impressed with your attention to detail. I have to get myself one of these soon.

[Panzer Fenris]

Lovely build, and it's a joy to see new ground being broken with an entirely new manufacturer.

Quick comment on the positioning of the T-hooks. I can only speak for how we did it in the Norwegian army and not how others did, but when out in the field we would usually keep them flipped so they curved downwards on our armoured vehicles. Reason being that is how they must be positioned during recoveries for the loop of the towing straps not to slide off. We would scold crews who did not have them flipped right by the time we arrived to help pull them out of whatever mess they had gotten themselves into.

Pointing upwards is the right way for when the vehicle is strapped down to transport trailers, and that is the chief reason they almost always show up that way both in museums and when they are sitting in depots, because they were transported there.

Having them like on yours is certainly not wrong in that regard, but you might find them less prone to catch on things if flipped around, and it should certainly not be unrealistic for depicting and operational vehicle either.

[lmcq11]

Thank you Tiger Rampage and Panzer Fenris.

Lovely build, and it's a joy to see new ground being broken with an entirely new manufacturer.

Quick comment on the positioning of the T-hooks. I can only speak for how we did it in the Norwegian army and not how others did, but when out in the field we would usually keep them flipped so they curved downwards on our armoured vehicles. Reason being that is how they must be positioned during recoveries for the loop of the towing straps not to slide off. We would scold crews who did not have them flipped right by the time we arrived to help pull them out of whatever mess they had gotten themselves into.

Pointing upwards is the right way for when the vehicle is strapped down to transport trailers, and that is the chief reason they almost always show up that way both in museums and when they are sitting in depots, because they were transported there.

Having them like on yours is certainly not wrong in that regard, but you might find them less prone to catch on things if flipped around, and it should certainly not be unrealistic for depicting and operational vehicle either.

Thanks for your insight. I was curious and checked again my references for any pictures of M-60 with flipped T-hooks. It must not be a process in the US Army. What i saw earlier is that for about half the time, these T-hooks are replaced by shackles. If you have any picture with flipped T-hooks, it would be appreciated.
thanks, Louis

1/16 RC USMC M-60A1 US tank with ERA - Build

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[Panzer Fenris]

Thank you Tiger Rampage and Panzer Fenris.


Thanks for your insight. I was curious and checked again my references for any pictures of M-60 with flipped T-hooks. It must not be a process in the US Army. What i saw earlier is that for about half the time, these T-hooks are replaced by shackles. If you have any picture with flipped T-hooks, it would be appreciated.
thanks, Louis


Screenshot 50.jpg

I have looked around a little, and yes having those hooks flipped by default seems to not be a thing within the US military. I guess they spend more time driving where there's not much risk of bogging down in marshland or deep snow, and just don't consider it worth it before they need it.
The shackles have also been noted. Can be a switch that happened during the M60's lifespan, because on the M1's I haven't found any with T-hooks instead of shackles.
In the video I linked below they even borrow a T-hook from the Norwegian ARV for the recovery. (Guy telling them to put it on at 0:28 is actually my old CO. Good chap).

phpBB [video]