Walker Bulldog shocks & motors

[Mister Thrice]

How does one remove the flat-headed, seemingly press-fitted (and probably glued as well) pin that connects the shock armature to the hull? I'm certain there's a better way than the (albeit barbaric) way I've envisioned...

I can make springs, as we all can, and so I'm eager to build up some beasties for the back 6 sets on this M41. But removing without destroying is always a challenge for me... So I figured I'd ask the seasoned vets first. I'm not a rich man, this one tank is what I get for the foreseeable future, and I'm lovin' it, so wreckin' it seems like a bad idea...

Also, there are silver, blue, and red motors... in 380, and 390. I read blues are for the models reds dont fit, reds add a significant amount of torque. Both I imagine drain the batteries quite a bit faster as well... I only ask because I notice some strain with just the steel gearbox and metal tracks and wheels. When I add hull reinforcements, the steel rotation ring, the steel upgraded (and personally modded) 'smoker' and the metal rotation motor assembly, lights... It's gunna get bulkier. Better springs (again, every time you adjust the weight, tis a good idea to re-evaluate the shocks), and then some discussion about motor strain, stock versus red versus blue.

Now, I'm no tech guru, I'm just O.C.D. and A.D.D. and such, so when I get fascinated by a thing, I learn a lot about the thing to help me understand the thing better. One of those things I learned was 380 and 390 motors. Which are very, VERY popular with us NERF modders, as they are basically the quintessential motor size of the bigger flywheel blasters. So, if anybody had some tech specs or a chart for these blue and red motors, that would be amazingly beneficial. I'm not looking for a massive speed upgrade, but a bit more pep, and a lot more power/torque would be good for a heavier tank. Which is ironic, because the M41 was never a heavy tank. Even after the Danish revision, which I cant wait to model mine after!

Thank you all in advance for any advices. I had a list of RC 'honey-do's' today, and I got the 1/16 mini monster truck done quick, so toying with the amount of treads and trying to get these shock springs sorted out for the tank was today's priority. Wont be much longer now, and all 6 of my RC's will be up and operational, which is a rare thing indeed!

[lmcq11]

Just pull it the hard way. The is no magic wand in modelling as I would be the first to use it.

[Sub]

Hi.

No magic wand but simple engineering principles.....

The pins are not glued in place they are splined and pressed in.
I get them out by using a pair of wire cutters, like the pic.
Place the cutter blades between the 2 parts you want to remove in this case the back of the shock mount and hull mounting point and gently squeeze the pliers shut and as the plastic cannot move it pushes the pin out as the blades close.....simples.
Once the pin has pushed out far enough you can get a pair of pliers on the flat head and pull it out...DONT TWIST IT, IT HAS SPLINES ON IT..


Sub

[Mister Thrice]

Excellent, thanks much! I've ordered the metal shocks, began building a few springs to test, and will be using those snips to not snip the pin out. Its always easiest to work on things disassembled. Especially for my sausage-esque fingers....

Again, thank you!