Contemplating a Panzer IV build? Then...

[43rdRecceReg]

Yesterday, I found this package in my porch...much to my delight. It seems, the more one orders from Alex, the faster the deliveries become. Not only that, but you get favoured status it seems with the inclusion of Haribo gummy bears,
or similar dental destroyers

Tamiya goodies from Axel

[43rdRecceReg]

I only ordered these a few days ago and so, given the parcel log jam that begins before Christmas, It was great to get them now.

Tamiya Pz IV drive and transmission units

Fitting the gearboxes is fairly straightforward, but it becomes immediately apparent why the standoffs need to be glued to the deck floor first. On that topic, i realise I made an error earlier about which Full-option tanks have gearboxes mounted on standoffs. So far as i can tell now, they all do, the main difference is- however- that with the Pz IV the retaining screws pass through the spacers into the gearbox bottom plate, where with other models the standoffs themselves screw into the gearbox baseplates, and then receive retaining screws through the hull floor to secure the boxes.

Fitting motors and gearboxes pic A

Tamiya recommend the use of thread lock for most of the major metal components. On other models I tried three different types (one shown below adjacent to Tamiya version), before I began using Tamiya'sown product. The trick is to find a thread lock that gives extra security to a screw or bolt fastening, without making it impossible to remove in the event of component failure (i.e. duff gears, or failed suspension bearing). That would be thread lock deadlock..
The other factor in finally plumping for the Tamiya product is (aside from it's presence in most kits..) that it has a convenient nozzle for dispensing it's goo, not unlike my preferred cement- Revell Contacta Pro.

Threadlock deadlock beater..

Also indispensable is a screwdriver with a magnetic head, but I've found you can also retain the screw on the driver with a smidgin of 'blu-tack' (or even chewing gum) when you need to put if in hard to reach places. Just remember to remove the temp 'adhesive' later. In fact, I've also used droplets of Tamiya Threadlock for the same purpose..

Fitting retaining screws to gearboxes

[silversurfer1947]

From the photo, the Heng Long cupola looks identical to the one on my Panzer III. Could it be that to save themselves some money, they just used the same moulding? Or, is that what the Germans did?

[43rdRecceReg]

Here the drive units are installed:

Tamiya PzIV gearboxes installed

When considering the cost of Tamiya Kits or, in this instance, bits to build by instalments, the feeling of guilt that creeps up and taps you on the shoulder (but it could also be the Bank manager )
is offset bit when you find how well the parts go together. They really do fit with satisfying precision. None whose had the Asiatam chassis experience/ nightmare will know exactly what I mean.
That said, I've spent recklessly lately- as one does here- and It looks like it'll be a chicken for Christmas and not a turkey
When I mention' Bank manager', I am of course writing of that soon- to- be- extinct creature who once acted as you barrier to reckless indulgence
Now for the sprockets (pre-painted with dunkelgelb)

[43rdRecceReg]

Before I forget (and with the remorseless advance of my years- it's easy these days ), I noticed this wee red dot on the dc motor. As far as I'm able to tell, it's Tamiya's way of indicating the positive terminal. Ok, for dc motors polarity is not a big (up in smoke) issue; but I like to have wiring diagrams to refer to, and am thoroughly baffled by the colour scheme on the DMD/MF units...and lack their of polarity indicators. Och well, so long as it works, and it probably will if you follow their instructions to the letter.

Tamiya DC motor red dot

The tracks were as easy as the sprockets to fit, and everything lined up nicely..(compared with one or two HL builds). Tamiya instruct the builder to remove five links from the tracks and connect them up (pin heads innermost.).
The idler tensioner increases or decreases tension in 30 deg increments. In the event, I'd guessed an optimum starting position, and so no adjustment was needed. Yippee.

Pz IV tracks and sprockets fitted

Here's an update to it's general look from today (notice the snow in the background. Brrrrr ). Yayyy..'it's beginning to look a lot like' ..................a tank not Christmas

Tamiya Pz IV build update pic..

Throughout this part of the build, I had an overseer: the Pink Panzer.
He's a reminder of the fact that I've not yet painted a figure. Indeed, I don't have flesh coloured paints as yet. But I'll get them in the New Year. He'll be the final stage in the King Tiger build.

Zer Pink Panzer- my build supervisor

Right, well as it's chillingly below zero outside currently (not indoors luckily) and Storm Caroline is still showing her billowing white petticoats, I'm off for a well-earned cuppa

[sassgrunt]

Your Panzer IV is looking great! I was worried that you were encountering a few headaches in trying to piece it together from various parts, but you are pulling it off magnificently! One thing I've done on occasion for those drive sprocket hub caps is to glue a small flat magnet under the cap, and that holds it onto the steel 5mm screw that Tamiya uses to hold the sprockets on. Sometimes I have to replace the round-headed screw that comes in the kit with a flat-headed screw (I believe they're also called countersunk) to have enough room for the magnet. I have even been known to use a countersink bit to take a little bit off the sprocket to get it to sit lower and contact better.
But then again, when I've seen this discussion come up in the past, I've noticed that some people HATE to use magnets there, and opt for blu-tack or rubber cement, (or even that blue Tamiya thread lock).
Keep on, though. There are few Pz IV builds, (I don't know why, because there were a lot more of them built than any heavier tanks), and it is enjoyable to watch. -Mike

[43rdRecceReg]

From the photo, the Heng Long cupola looks identical to the one on my Panzer III. Could it be that to save themselves some money, they just used the same moulding? Or, is that what the Germans did?

The Heng Long cupola is identical with the one atop your Panzer III, Richard. Those parts are interchangeable. It may be no coincidence. In fact, I believe the Germans had the intention (for economic and manufacturing purposes) to have both the actual Pz 111s and PzIVs sharing as many components as was practicable, much as it was with the British cruiser series of tanks culminating in the Cromwell and Comet. In that sense, their model versions fulfil a similar requirement: it is easier and cheaper to produce shared parts.
That said, I see from looking at this impressive series of photos depicting surfing Panzer IVs, arranged chronologically by version (see link below) , that the cupola shown on one F model (grey- and situated in Moscow) looks to be same size and shape as the HL version, while the the cupola immediately below on the Ausf G model kept at Yambol, Bulgaria looks to be the size and shape of the Tamiya 'J; version. I'm guessing then, that the cupola was revised between F and G models.
http://the.shadock.free.fr/Surviving_Panzer_IV.pdf
Furthermore, some of the G/H models depicted here have the split hatch, where the 'H' model from the Omaha Overlord Museum, at Colleville-sur-Mer is equipped with the one piece hatch seen on the Tamiya 'J' model. It's not unreasonable then to assume that the one piece hatch came in with late Ausf 'H' models. I could well be wrong, but one of the good things about sharing this stuff is that there's always someone out there with that little extra bit of info.
I'll be happy to be wrong.

[43rdRecceReg]

Your Panzer IV is looking great! I was worried that you were encountering a few headaches in trying to piece it together from various parts, but you are pulling it off magnificently! One thing I've done on occasion for those drive sprocket hub caps is to glue a small flat magnet under the cap, and that holds it onto the steel 5mm screw that Tamiya uses to hold the sprockets on. Sometimes I have to replace the round-headed screw that comes in the kit with a flat-headed screw (I believe they're also called countersunk) to have enough room for the magnet. I have even been known to use a countersink bit to take a little bit off the sprocket to get it to sit lower and contact better.
But then again, when I've seen this discussion come up in the past, I've noticed that some people HATE to use magnets there, and opt for blu-tack or rubber cement, (or even that blue Tamiya thread lock).
Keep on, though. There are few Pz IV builds, (I don't know why, because there were a lot more of them built than any heavier tanks), and it is enjoyable to watch. -Mike

Many thanks, Mike. Nah, not a hint of a headache around here; but that might not be the case on Christmas day Yes, the concealed magnet trick is one old Captn. Jarndice likes to employ, and promote. Several other old hands as well. Indeed, there's another current thread where magnet use gets a mention....and that was from Shaun.
I have a bag full of them clinging to a metal dish as I write this. (One of those magnetic dishes used to prevent screws and bits going astray mid-build). I guess the dish must be North and they're all South polarity...as an incidental.
Personally, I'll probably use these to attach the sprocket caps. I have to admit (guiltily) that I've been lax in fitting caps to my tanks hitherto. They tend to remain on the sprue or in a bag.
Before I forget, I found another German trader on Ebay who had the Turret sprue in stock (it's out at Axel's), and so I ordered it. I know nothing about the vendor, but his ratings are OK. Fingers crossed then that it arrives before Xmas
shuts all the postal doors.

[sassgrunt]

Do you have all the other turret parts you need for it already? Doors, storage bin, schurtzen, etc?

[Max-U52]

And what about the FPV?