That's exactly the problem.tomhugill wrote:I have plugged tbus into ibus, it's most definitely plug and play (unlike Clark) I can only think you're using the wrong socket
TBU and IBU connection
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- Rad_Schuhart
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Re: TBU and IBU connection
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- silversurfer1947
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Re: TBU and IBU connection
Looking at the manuals for both the IBU2 and IBU3 there are two adjacent sockets, one 2 pin for the IR emitter and 1 5 pin for the TBU. The picture for the IBU3 has them labelled led & receiver.
As I said, I have limited experience, so apologies if I got it wrong before.
As I said, I have limited experience, so apologies if I got it wrong before.
Richard
Tamiya Tiger 1, Taigen FlakPanzer IV,Torro M16 half-track, Tamiya Panther,WSN/Torro T34,Taigen M41 Bulldog,H/l/Taigen Sherman M4A3,H/L T90, Haya M3 Grant, Metal Origins 234/2 Puma, Nashorn by Alwyn. I was only going to have one tank - honest!
Tamiya Tiger 1, Taigen FlakPanzer IV,Torro M16 half-track, Tamiya Panther,WSN/Torro T34,Taigen M41 Bulldog,H/l/Taigen Sherman M4A3,H/L T90, Haya M3 Grant, Metal Origins 234/2 Puma, Nashorn by Alwyn. I was only going to have one tank - honest!

- Rad_Schuhart
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Re: TBU and IBU connection
You dont have to apologyze for anything, we are all always learning somethin newsilversurfer1947 wrote:Looking at the manuals for both the IBU2 and IBU3 there are two adjacent sockets, one 2 pin for the IR emitter and 1 5 pin for the TBU. The picture for the IBU3 has them labelled led 7 & receiver.
As I said, I have limited experience, so apologies if I got it wrong before.

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Re: TBU and IBU connection
Your all wrong
Only kidding
Okay here are the facts
Tamiya uses 2mm molex for both receiver and IR emitter plugs
IBU2&3 uses 2mm JST plugs for both receiver and IR emitter plugs
Clark uses 2.5mm JST plug for receiver and (I'm not 100% certain) 1.25 JST plug for IR emitter
Heng Long & Taigen uses 2.5mm JST plug for combined receiver and emitter.
Pin out arrangement for tamiya, IBU, clark is the same. The HL/Taigen share same pin out arrangement but don't have a hit LED so pin arrangement is different to the Tamiya standard.
Tamiya TBU and emitter wont fit Clark because of the different pin pitch. The Tamiya and IBU have same pitch and the Molex fits in the JST socket easily. The JST will fit in the Molex but needs to be forced in a little.
Next question I get asked is will a heng long, taigen, vampire, TBU, etc work with X electronics. Simple answer is yes, the receiver and emitters are dumb devices and only emit the code sent to them from the electronics and the receiver just sends the signal back to the electronics. So you can use any brand receiver, emitter with your electronics. It's the electronics which does the coding so if it says tamiya IR standard then it will work with all tamiya standard tanks.
So why use expensive TBU and not the HL apple? simple the build quality, test a 100 TBU and the results will be almost identical, test 100 HL apples and you find quality all over the place and nowhere as good as the TBU.

Only kidding

Okay here are the facts
Tamiya uses 2mm molex for both receiver and IR emitter plugs
IBU2&3 uses 2mm JST plugs for both receiver and IR emitter plugs
Clark uses 2.5mm JST plug for receiver and (I'm not 100% certain) 1.25 JST plug for IR emitter
Heng Long & Taigen uses 2.5mm JST plug for combined receiver and emitter.
Pin out arrangement for tamiya, IBU, clark is the same. The HL/Taigen share same pin out arrangement but don't have a hit LED so pin arrangement is different to the Tamiya standard.
Tamiya TBU and emitter wont fit Clark because of the different pin pitch. The Tamiya and IBU have same pitch and the Molex fits in the JST socket easily. The JST will fit in the Molex but needs to be forced in a little.
Next question I get asked is will a heng long, taigen, vampire, TBU, etc work with X electronics. Simple answer is yes, the receiver and emitters are dumb devices and only emit the code sent to them from the electronics and the receiver just sends the signal back to the electronics. So you can use any brand receiver, emitter with your electronics. It's the electronics which does the coding so if it says tamiya IR standard then it will work with all tamiya standard tanks.
So why use expensive TBU and not the HL apple? simple the build quality, test a 100 TBU and the results will be almost identical, test 100 HL apples and you find quality all over the place and nowhere as good as the TBU.
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Re: TBU and IBU connection
Okay so let me get this straight for my own benefit:
- If I force the TBU plug into the IBU2/3 socket labelled Tamiya Receiver, it will work.
- If I rewire the TBU unit into 2mm JST it will go into the IBU2/3 socket labelled Tamiya Receiver properly.
- if I rewire the TBU unit into 2.5mm JST it will go into the IBU2/3 socket labelled IR port (3pin) and Flasher port (2pin)
Clark actually uses 2.54 mm JST but 2.5mm will fit, IR is actually 1mm JST.
MichaelC.
- If I force the TBU plug into the IBU2/3 socket labelled Tamiya Receiver, it will work.
- If I rewire the TBU unit into 2mm JST it will go into the IBU2/3 socket labelled Tamiya Receiver properly.
- if I rewire the TBU unit into 2.5mm JST it will go into the IBU2/3 socket labelled IR port (3pin) and Flasher port (2pin)
Clark actually uses 2.54 mm JST but 2.5mm will fit, IR is actually 1mm JST.
MichaelC.
Re: TBU and IBU connection
No wrong way round. The TBU will fit the JST socket on the IBU2&3 Tamiya receiver. It’s the JST plug of the original Vampire unit which you have to force to fit the Tamiya electronics.MichaelC wrote:Okay so let me get this straight for my own benefit:
- If I force the TBU plug into the IBU2/3 socket labelled Tamiya Receiver, it will work.
MichaelC.
I originally created the Vampire hidden battle unit for use with IBU2&3, but customers bought to use with Tamiya and Clark. I’ve recently redesigned the Vampire (now Vampire 2) so can select the plug type to suit either IBU, Tamiya, Clark. As for the TBU fitting IBU’s although different plug it has always fitted.
So your thinking why use JST not use the Molex connection on IBU’s. Basically users can buy a JST plug pre wired for a few $ or even a 5-10 pack from China for about $5, Molex is expensive. So the decision at production stage was to install the JST socket on the IBU’s this allows users to buy cheap readily available plugs to connect or make own bases or receivers and allows the TBU to plug in.
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Re: TBU and IBU connection
hi Ian, i have a question while your online i have an ibu2 in my taigen tiger1 and a tamiya kt do i just buy the vampire kits for each tank but with the correct plug type for each board ? many thanks
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Re: TBU and IBU connection
Yes that's it.
I think I'm out of stock of the Tamiya vampire 2 unit but I need to make some more up, probably this weekend I get time to do some.
I think I'm out of stock of the Tamiya vampire 2 unit but I need to make some more up, probably this weekend I get time to do some.
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Re: TBU and IBU connection
hi Ian, okay thanks for that . how do you fit them ? and do i need to buy an ir lead many thanks
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Re: TBU and IBU connection
Fit them? You mean install the Vampire?
Comes with 4 IR receivers and 4 hit LED’s
Want to position the sensors 1 facing front, 1 facing back, 1 on each side the LED’s typically go at the diagonals to the sensors but generally as long as you can see at least one light up from any point around the tank you be okay.
I normally drill 3mm hole through turret and glue the IR sensor behind it so the bulb of the sensor is in the hole, the LED’s are 3mm so again drill 3mm hole and push the LED into it. As you’ve got German tanks you could alternative put the sensors and LED’s in the periscope part of the cupula.
As you’ve got 4 sensors you don’t have to be perfect with the positioning as you will pick up the hit from most angles.
IR lead is not included in the Vampire 2 pack so need ordering separately, although I only have the JST 2 pin plug and leads.
Ian.
Comes with 4 IR receivers and 4 hit LED’s
Want to position the sensors 1 facing front, 1 facing back, 1 on each side the LED’s typically go at the diagonals to the sensors but generally as long as you can see at least one light up from any point around the tank you be okay.
I normally drill 3mm hole through turret and glue the IR sensor behind it so the bulb of the sensor is in the hole, the LED’s are 3mm so again drill 3mm hole and push the LED into it. As you’ve got German tanks you could alternative put the sensors and LED’s in the periscope part of the cupula.
As you’ve got 4 sensors you don’t have to be perfect with the positioning as you will pick up the hit from most angles.
IR lead is not included in the Vampire 2 pack so need ordering separately, although I only have the JST 2 pin plug and leads.
Ian.
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