All metal beast

[tao]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/640450052733862/
http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/

Tons of information on that model and much more!

[jackalope]

Do you know what kind of fluid it is yet? If it is hydraulic fluid see if its possible to use automatic transmission fluid instead, the reason being is hydraulic fluid does not have stuff in it to preserve seals where automatic transmission fluid does. To be honest it looks like power steering fluid and again if it is use automatic transmission fluid instead. I'd go with Dexron ATF3 which I'm sure can be had world wide because it has anti foaming agents and seal preservatives already in it and can handle higher heat and shear loads then power steering fluid can. Also the fact that ATF will actually stop leaks also helps.

Either way you go its a very fine looking model you got, what does it weigh? Its gotta be a beast!

[Tankbear]

No idea on fluid yet. I never realised how complicated this stuff was

Weight Website says 6kg but shipping documents say 14.2kg so somewhere in between I guess.

Ian.

[tao]

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4Yo8l ... b9_1yzOgaA

Great site too about that model xl 4200
I have one all set up..not too complicated once
you get it all sorted out. Martin at that site
knows just about anything you would need to ask
and is super nice.

[RobW]

This is a good starting point for what you need to know https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_fluid If you talk to the supplier, ask for the COSHH sheet, it'll tell you exactly what you're dealing with.

[HERMAN BIX]

I get soaked with '68 hydraulic oil on an unfortunately all to regular basis with little side effect apart from dry skin from industrial hand cleaner.
Brake fluid on the other hand either DOT 4 or 5 is a whole different scenario.
If your fluid is hydraulic, (bearing in mind any fluid medium in compression can be considered hydraulic), it could be as low as a monograde 5W oil through to a full on low foam full synthetic grade for ambient + 60C temps(which I doubt this would be)
I really cant see it being any sort of brake fluid- to aggressive. My pick is its sewing machine oil.
5W at best, with few additives other than a colouring to make it easy to see.
Unless you intend to bath in the stuff on a regular basis, there should be no issues.

[tao]

They use light standard hydraulic oil but you can also use vegetable based oil too..I switched over to that..
as less messy when you change it out or spill it :Renewable Lubricants Bio-Bottle Jack ISO 32 Hydraulic Lubricant

[Tankbear]

Thanks Tao

I will look into that.

[Tankbear]

Right I got some information from the manufacturer on the oil.

It is HLP15 (thin mineral oil) and doesn’t damage paint or seals etc. I’ve yet to do research to verify this but at least doesn’t sound to bad.

They also confirmed don’t need pumping all the time, but did say the action is more realistic with constant running pump however does reduce battery run time and creates system heat. So for a newbie excavator operating I think I’ll setup so pump only runs when demanded and get use to the slower controls. Then can tweak settings as I get better.

[tao]

Best way in my opinion is to :Set the end point on the pump/channel 5 to around 20% (18-24)
Assign the pit/trim dial control on the left of the radio to control the 4th valve servo (it may be set up that way but may
be assigned to the toggle on back right) I run it with mix off (Aux mix toggle on right) Then you can adjust the pressure
via the dial to slow or speed up functions with the pump running nice and steady! (Set the 4th valve end point 100%/100
so you can dial the servo open and closed-both ways) (note radio mix toggle needs to be started up with mix on-toggle up then you can flip it down..also this way you can run it with mix on or off)

(The reason for the low end point on the pump is that it is way too strong to run any faster than 26%)