DAK Pz IV Ausf G Build

[philipat]

Sov, glad to hear I'm not the only one that noticed the white metal. Thanks for the kind words. I've got your Tiger build marked for future reference. That's an incredible piece of work.

[philipat]

Got a little more done. Amazing how much time it takes to complete something that I thought would be an easy and quick detail to do.

Headlights: added the “lamp cables” using brass wire and hex rod. Tip: prepare this part before gluing the headlight into place. Don’t ask...

Convoy light: got this installed. I used the same parts and setup on my PzIII build. The difference this time is that I had .8-mm hex head bolts, which gave a better scale appearance. So, I used them on this build.

Spare road wheel box: I built and installed that. The road wheels are a snug fit (still need to take the suspension off of them).

Questions for the history buffs:
- There are two styles of these boxes. One has higher walls with a bracket for a holding bar that runs between the outer and inner wheels and keeps them from bouncing out. The other has a more angled side wall (like the one I built). How were the road wheels secured in this setup? I’ve found that nothing stays on an armored vehicle unless it is bolted or tied down, regardless of how heavy it is. These look like they’re waiting to get bounced out.

- I read somewhere (don’t remember what blog or forum) that the road wheel box was either omitted or used for something else by the Afrika Korps. Can anyone confirm that or provide more information?

- Did the Ausf G use the reflector on the right (starboard) fender? I have the one that HL provides. But, generally, I’ve only seen the Gs with the reflector on bottom edge of the left (portside) mud flap below the convoy light.

Need to do some putty work, place the stowed tools (still deciding between the HL plastic ones and the Taigen metal set), and possibly make a rear reflector. But, looks like the detailing is coming to a close on the upper hull. Then, it’s re-wiring and I’ll be ready to move to the lower hull. If I’m missing a detail, let me know.

[Jnewboy]

This is looking great!! I have seen MkIV's in Afrika with three wheel long boxes, two wheel boxes of both types and make-shift boxes usually just being a metal bar bent into place. There is no right or wrong answer unless you are trying to do a specific vehicle.

[philipat]

I am trying to use the Spade 7 as a the basis for this build. But, I can't find any photos of that side of that tank. So, it sounds like I have some flexibility in that one.

[philipat]

Got some more work done on the upper hull and I’m closing in on completion of the upper hull.

- I fabricated the reflector that sits on the left, rear mud flap. I made it using brass strip (F-1x-4 from http://www.specialshapes.com) as the frame and 1/8" (3.2-mm) styrene rod and tube cemented together with plastic weld. I was concerned with how well it would stay attached to the mud flap, even with 2-part epoxy. So, I drilled two .6-mm holes and added 1-mm rivets. These I bent backwards and epoxied everything into place. Hopefully, it survive a few small bushes when my driving isn’t so great.

- Next big thing was to layout the tools and add the bits that would “secure” in place...something to add some realism rather than just gluing them into place and having them float along. First layout tried to blend the directions in the Taigen and Tamiya manuals. But, I realized that it wasn’t quite going to work. So, I made some of my own adjustments. Probably not exactly right, but you get the idea. The straps were made with .3-mm styrene cut into strips 1.5-mm wide (2.5-mm for the long box wrench). The silver buckles are standard office staples. The copper buckles are individual strands from 22-gage electrical wire. The styrene shapes and straps are welded to the tread plate using plastic weld. Most of the shapes are .5-mm styrene sheet cut into strips and set in place. The wire cutters use 3-mm L-shape. The circular clips are more of the 1/8" styrene tube hollowed out (to a #52 bit, if I recall correctly). I slid it over the crank handle and then cut the top piece out. The crank handle was a good guide for getting everything right. If it was a slightly snug fit over the handle, then I had hollowed it out just enough.

With the filling and sanding completed, I believe that I have completed the detailing of the upper hull, unless someone sees an egregious omission.

Gotta figure out what to do with the tools, though. One option is to prime and paint them in their entirety. The other is to try to blacken them slightly just to dull the shine. Then, prime the portions that should either be painted (hull brackets, for example) or represent wood (like handles) and then paint them appropriately. Any suggestions?

[jarndice]

Oh I do like this build, WHOOPS, A VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR. Now where were we? I found I was able to do most of the detail of the tools on the Tank except the Fire extinguisher decals from PEDDINGHAUS which I found were best done on the bench, unless of course you like using bad language? Whatever, I think this is turning into a true "tour de force" If you like real detail I applied some of the placards on the PEDDINGHAUS decals sheet to the inside of the drivers and radio operators hatches. shaun

[philipat]

Thanks...Happy New Year.

Bad language is kept in check by doing all of this at the kitchen table.

I don't have any Peddinghaus decals. Didn't know that they had some for the tools or inside the hatches. Do you have a part #? I have decals for the extinguisher from Archer. It's a dry transfer and goes on fairly easily while on the tank.

It's a fun build so far and has been fairly straight forward.

[jarndice]

Hi, You raised a few points on KT ROBs build thread, First the generally excepted amount to lower the rear rollers is between 3-5mm, because I had already fitted gearbox output shaft support bearings(A MODIFICATION I RECOMMEND) I decided to leave the sprockets alone, as to the Idler adjuster, there appears to be as many people for them as are against, I have fitted them to a PZ4 and they work fine BUT it is easy to get it wrong, If you are going along that route there is a thread on one of the PZ4 builds which is worth a read.I was a bit surprised you were not familier with "EXACTO" keyhole saw blades, whenever I see the advise "to drill multiple holes to cut a line" I ignore it and drill a single hole to allow access and finish the cut with the exacto blade, it is quicker and far easier to maintain a straight line shaun

[tomhugill]

I usually dremel my hatches but I'm doing a customer pziv so I thought I would see how I get on with these keyhole blades.

Ps Shaun when you going to post some pictures of your tanks, nudge nudge.

[KTRob]

This build is awesome, great details