Thanks Tom, thanks John, I have learned a lot on this site and if my so called " skills" can help someone else with ideas to than all the better!
Got a little more done. One of the issues I had when I cut the rear panels out was I basically destroyed the vertical lines of molded countersunk bolts so I knew at some point I was going to have to fix this. So first I filled in the old ones with putty and sanded them off. I also filled in the rear lift hooks holes as they are a little out of position on the deck and will be re-located. Next I drew a line up the hull and marked off where the bolts should be. I then drilled .8mm holes right down through except where the holes are on the aluminum strut. Those I drilled as deep as possible. Next the simulate the countersunk holes I use a 2mm bit and gave it 2 and a 1/2 gentle rotations. cleaned the holes out and put in some more of the .8mm brass bolts I had with some super glue on the bottom of them to lock them in. Gently pushed them into the holes with an xacto knife and set them at the right depth. They are really close to the same size and once primed and painted I think they should blend right in nicely...

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Next, I wanted to open the rear engine hatch so I can locate my on/off and smoke switch. so proceeded to cut this out using small drill holes for the corners and heated up an xacto knife for the straight parts with a candle. I have tried little saws, wire, thread, dental floss, etc... nothing really worked for me as well as the candle knife method.

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now one of the things I learned a long, long, time ago in 1/35th world is that styrene shims can be your friend when opening hatches! In this case one corner got cut off a little too square so out comes the thin, thin styrene and regular thin model glue and new corner applied. Still has to be shaped with sanding of course.

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Now, this also works great with the hatch openings themselves. Lining them makes a nice smooth clean edge and makes the gaps more thin and realistic looking. In case you didn't see it before I have also done this on the front hatches and the rear deck plates to correct some misshapen edges and smooth them off.
so start with a piece that is long enough to go all the way around. Soak the side of the hatch and the middle of the strip and wait a minute for the strip to soften a bit and then stick it on.

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Repeat this process and make your way around the hatch and when it has dried a little you can nick out the sections where you don't want it. In this case I didn't want it in front of the hinges.

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I left the female end of the hinges on the body of the tank and will scratch them on the hatch but will make them a little more to scale too as they are a little to big and clunky compared to the real thing. and more proper bolt heads!
