RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I thought I saw a post based on using a 14 and one 18 together to stop Track recoil.
It was a pretty simple mod.

I may not be using the right text in the search option.

Anyone? ......or what worked for you?

Danke!

Nope not going mad a remember seeing it.

From what I remember you use two RX18 connected to the same receiver. Then connect motors to one RX18 and every thing else to the other that way when the recoil is triggered it doesn't effect the other RX18 with the drive motors.

Suppose if the RX14 uses a seperate receiver (I never seen one so don't know) then same logic would work with the 14 & 18 connected to same receiver.

I've also read of a bit of kit to stop/reduce the whole tnak jerk, but there was old post and I've never found any more info so suspect no longer available.

i run my tiger on 2 RX 18 boards to one receiver , motors to one ..everything else to the other . works ok so far , and it can fire and recoil on the move ..
there was a post about a mod ,, along time ago ..i was looking for it when built tiger but never found it

Hello there you can get an anti track recoil device from welsh dragon! For about £10 pounds ish. He'd sells them for the rx18 and rx14. But I don't think you can fire on the move with the device.

Hi there again just checked the price there £16.

Call me crazy but later today I'm going to try this.

I'm on a huge budget.....its called self employed.

The RX-18 a buddy gave me does not want to drive the main motors or a smoker....but it
does operate everything else ....meaning ....that inside my hull I have a 14 and 18 that have been running on the channel '03'......but of course I still get that insane 'jerk'

What I am going to try is using two transmitters in one controller using '03' and the other '02'
The '02' would be just for the Drive system alone...That should take care of that! Hows that for cheap and easy?

It would be even better if I could isolate just the drive functions of the 2nd transmitter to save on room and possible power consumption.

.....or if I blow up may Panzer its back to derr drawing board LOL....will keep you posted om mien progress.

Now that's got me thinking! And that woukd work! if you can get the other board to fit insidethe transmitter! But you got me think! Now in the case of heng long we no that the gun barrel only goes up and won't come back down until it's gone fully up! So what if I put a bother RX18 in my tank then wired the gun barrel motor wire to the second RX18 on the turret rotation socket! Then fitted the second board in my transmitter and wire the gunn elevation wire into the turret rotation on the second board ! Now that should then make the gun barrel go up when you push up and go down when you push down!!!!!!!

Before we have fire and smoke and all that bad stuff a short circuit will cause check out this link. Their is another link I have yet to find addressing the Jerk specifically. But this link has the diagram,and wiring socket labels for each pin of the RX18.

http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/v ... 620#p43620" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks Dog! All that useful stuff on one page

ITS AWESOME!!!! The extra board will fit right on top of the other but wait there's more!!

A small 12V battery will fit in there as well!!! ....PHEW! cuz at 1st I was thinking there was going to be this battery case added to the backside of the transmitter.

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All you need do is wire the drive stick to the 2nd transmitter.....both transmitters can run off the same power as they use so little power as is.

Glad I can help gents. Options are always nice to have.

Elevation and fan cooling the RX18 Unit. The nuts could also be used to double stack units? Just a thought?