
wsn t34
- FireflyKeith
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
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- Location: Northants, UK
Re: wsn t34















Keith

Re: wsn t34
i wont lol keep it a secret
- [ICE]monkey
- 2nd Lieutenant
- Posts: 2669
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 5:58 pm
- Location: pluckley ,ashford ,kent
Re: wsn t34
£15 ,BLOODY HELL
, have they got any more

- tankmad
- Warrant Officer 2nd Class
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Re: wsn t34
Stick a rx18 board in it that will get you going and you could use a hl controller if you have one.
Stevie
Stevie
Re: wsn t34
Well now that Is a bargin! Worth £15 of anyones money!
Re: wsn t34
no they avnt got any more it was sold as seen so they said it aint workin buty thats a good idea to put a rx18 board in it but how do you take them apart ??
- wibblywobbly
- Major
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- Location: South Wales Valley
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Re: wsn t34
That is the best bargain I have ever heard of on here. The WSN electrics are dire anyway.
Take the top hull off by unscrewing everything under the bottom hull, plus one by the antennae on the top at the back.
Remove all of the WSN gubbins, led's, boards, and wiring, but leave the wires that come off:
The LED in the barrel.
The turret motor.
The barrel elevation motor.
Both drive motors.
Buy an RX18 for around £26 off Forgebear, get hold of a speaker, and connect it all up. If you need more precise instructions then drop me a PM, I have already done all of this to mine. Just buy some red and black wire, some solder and some heatshrink.
If you want a battle system just get a Darkith kit to go in there. For well under £100 all in you will have a Tamiya compatible T34??
Other things you can do:
Buy the metal gears, though they are a pig to fit, or do some engineering and fit HL boxes..but not for the faint hearted.
Cheers
Rob G
Take the top hull off by unscrewing everything under the bottom hull, plus one by the antennae on the top at the back.
Remove all of the WSN gubbins, led's, boards, and wiring, but leave the wires that come off:
The LED in the barrel.
The turret motor.
The barrel elevation motor.
Both drive motors.
Buy an RX18 for around £26 off Forgebear, get hold of a speaker, and connect it all up. If you need more precise instructions then drop me a PM, I have already done all of this to mine. Just buy some red and black wire, some solder and some heatshrink.
If you want a battle system just get a Darkith kit to go in there. For well under £100 all in you will have a Tamiya compatible T34??
Other things you can do:
Buy the metal gears, though they are a pig to fit, or do some engineering and fit HL boxes..but not for the faint hearted.
Cheers
Rob G
Re: wsn t34
wow mate your t34 is absolutly fantastic theres no way i could do a job like that on mine, just managed to take the hull off an found its got a rx5 board in it


- wibblywobbly
- Major
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- Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:30 am
- Location: South Wales Valley
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Re: wsn t34 RX18 conversion
Thanks for the compliment, but it really isn't that hard to do. Just takes time and a big kitchen worktop!
Ok, Steen asked me for the wiring details so here goes, these pics have come from various sources, but they are the bible as far as these board conversions go. The same rules apply for any tank that you want to fit an RX18 into:
First of all the RX18 connector guide:
So, hook up the motor leads to the motor plugs, and that is an easy job done.
Now the power switch, get this right or watch your board go up in smoke!
The speaker goes to the speaker socket.
Forget the smoker, I always bin them anyway.
Connect the volume control. If you later find that it doesn't work, just swap the outer two wires over. Better still get a 22kb potentiometer (Maplins sell them in the UK) and use that, it is far higher quality and cleans the sound up.
Now what are we left with?
Ok, don't worry if you hook any of these up the wrong way around, if the motors run backwards then you simply reverse the wires.
The +/- on the turret traverse motor go to Blue A & B at the bottom of the board or via the 8 pin socket if you have one.
The +/- on the barrel elevation motor go to Blue C & D at the bottom of the board or via the 8 pin socket if you have one.
Next trick is the muzzle flash. Most T34 led's are glued in and the barrel is very fragile. You may be better off leaving it in there.
To make it work on the K button, use the black A & B.
The lights and machine gun go to the 8 pin HL socket, or you can wire them direct.
A couple of tips, always twist each pair of wires together, it makes them easy to track and prevents tangles.
Leave the top off the RX18, and cut most of the bottom out. Mount it just clear of the bottom of the hull to allow air to circulate.
If you have any more questions, just shout. I am happy to help.
Cheers
Rob G

Ok, Steen asked me for the wiring details so here goes, these pics have come from various sources, but they are the bible as far as these board conversions go. The same rules apply for any tank that you want to fit an RX18 into:
First of all the RX18 connector guide:
So, hook up the motor leads to the motor plugs, and that is an easy job done.
Now the power switch, get this right or watch your board go up in smoke!
The speaker goes to the speaker socket.
Forget the smoker, I always bin them anyway.
Connect the volume control. If you later find that it doesn't work, just swap the outer two wires over. Better still get a 22kb potentiometer (Maplins sell them in the UK) and use that, it is far higher quality and cleans the sound up.
Now what are we left with?
Ok, don't worry if you hook any of these up the wrong way around, if the motors run backwards then you simply reverse the wires.
The +/- on the turret traverse motor go to Blue A & B at the bottom of the board or via the 8 pin socket if you have one.
The +/- on the barrel elevation motor go to Blue C & D at the bottom of the board or via the 8 pin socket if you have one.
Next trick is the muzzle flash. Most T34 led's are glued in and the barrel is very fragile. You may be better off leaving it in there.
To make it work on the K button, use the black A & B.
The lights and machine gun go to the 8 pin HL socket, or you can wire them direct.
A couple of tips, always twist each pair of wires together, it makes them easy to track and prevents tangles.
Leave the top off the RX18, and cut most of the bottom out. Mount it just clear of the bottom of the hull to allow air to circulate.
If you have any more questions, just shout. I am happy to help.
Cheers
Rob G