3D Printed Maus

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tankme
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3D Printed Maus

Post by tankme »

When I ran out of paint for the ZTZ-99A I was painting I had to order more. My attention then wandered to the Maus I had sitting on the shelf that was 50% assembled and 99% printed. When I started this project a few weeks ago I decided I was going to finish building it and not build anything else until it is done (yeah, I know I've said that before).

This time it will be different! :haha:

Of course the base files come from Inkor's collection on Cults3D: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various ... -viii-maus

The main hull, skirts, barrel, mantlet, and turret sides/bottom are all printed in PETG. The tracks, light housings, and exhaust outlets are printed in Sunlu ABS-like resin if I remember correctly. I hadn't discovered the Sunlu Toughness resin by that time. The upper deck pieces, turret roof, wheels, towing eyes, and spare fuel drum are printed in ASA. Most of the suspension parts are printed with Overture Easy Nylon. I'll have to see how that works out in the long run.

I said base files because the original files posted there called for using some small right hand gearboxes powered by a 370 sized motor. Such a small motor and gearbox was used because the way the Maus was designed, the central part of the hull is very narrow. People that had built the Maus commented that it was really under powered. I came up with an idea to use some planetary geared 395 motors which I think would've been up to the task of powering this beast and still fit in the tunnel. I 3D printed a mounting plate for the motors and cut the lower support out in the rear of the tank to get them to fit.

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Since I wasn't the only person looking for a solution to the lack of power issue, others came up with a different idea to use this right hand motor/gearbox.

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The problem with that motor/gearbox was that it wouldn't actually fit in the tunnel as it was originally designed. At that point Inkor designed some new pieces to house the new motors. After printing them, the new motors would fit as shown by another builders pics of the setup. I apparently didn't get any pics of mine prior to install. As you can see, the gearboxes with the black motor cans are way larger than even my 395 motors. The smaller gearboxes are shown still installed in the hull.

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Seeing that the new motors fit in the new hull pieces I started printing them. While that was happening I started my hellish journey of assembling the tracks. The Maus tracks are especially crappy to assemble as the ends of the pins are not at the ends of the tracks due to the way the tracks curve upward on the ends and there have 4 different track pieces to clean/drill before assembly. There 94 of the main track links, 94 of the smaller center track links, and 188 of the left/right small track links. That's a total of 376 parts that I had to sand to get rid of the support nubs and then drill to make them fit a 0.9mm spring steel track pin that I had to cut to length myself. I got smart on my last track build and got a mini chop saw with a friction blade to cut the pins. I can usually do about 6 at a time with no issues, but once those are cut each pin has to have both ends deburred/smoothed. You can ignore the measurements on top track pic. I did those for another member on Discord.

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And of course while building the tracks I ran out of my supply of 0.9mm spring steel and had to order more. By this point the new lower hull pieces were finished printing so I installed the motors. You can just see them peaking out below the standard HL gear rotation unit. I also modified Inkor's Maus speaker box to accept a Dayton 2.5" driver. Both are showing installed in the tank.

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I got my order of spring steel in and they sent me 0.8mm. I was quite pissed until I found another set of 0.9mm rods hiding in my stash. At that point I finished building the tracks. Not wanting to start on the next hellish task (the suspension), I started work on removing the print lines from the model. I thought I had pics of the raw prints, but it seems I don't. I normally don't like to do finishing work until the tank is built and tested in case any changes need to be made, but in the interest of finishing this I broke my own rule. I first sanded the turret with my (what can only be called a God send) rotary foot sander. Yeah, I said foot sander:

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Profess ... 5PQGL?th=1

It's basically a 370 motor connected to a variable power supply with stick on padded sanding discs. It works WONDERFULLY for sanding 3D printed parts. After sanding the turret, I grabbed my Dremel and a hobby blade to make some flame cuts in the turret armor pieces. Once that was done, I grabbed a round sponge brush and hit the turret with some Mr. Surfacer 500. This is how it turned out:

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The suspension on the Maus is unique to the vehicle. It's pretty complicated and Inkor did his best to replicate it. There are basically 6 suspension modules per side of the tank (12 total). Each module has 4 suspension arms (48 total). Each lower arm has two wheels mounted on it (48 total).

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As you will see, the two little guide rollers on the top of each module has been replaced by a set of static runners. That was a non-scale change to resolve some track binding issues. I think my build will be the first to try the system without the wheels on top. I'm kinda crossing my fingers here that it will solve the issues with the track catching on the rollers. I printed each wheel with a slight modification that allowed be to use ball bearings in them. So that means there are 96 bearings in the wheels alone (2 per wheel). All of the suspension arms, cross bars, and track guides had to be cleaned and sanded before I could assemble them. This is where I'm at:

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Luckily I realized that I wasn't going to have enough bearings on hand and had also ordered those by the time I got to this point. I have exactly 3 of the suspension modules assembled without the springs in them. Springs are still on their way and should be here by the time they are all assembled. Even so, I have more finishing work to do so the project won't stall if they are delayed.

I had most of the tank printed and assembled before returning to work on it. I figured I could finish this relatively quickly since it's a lot of flat pieces with few details. The top deck pieces have also gotten a liberal amount of spray filler putty at this point. So this is what it looks like after the work in the past three weeks:

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I will continue to work on the suspension and finishing work for the next installment.

That's all for now...
Last edited by tankme on Sun Sep 14, 2025 8:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Derek
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Re: 3D Printed Maus

Post by Stormbringer »

That is some beast of a tank and following this with intrest mate :clap:
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Herr Dr. Professor
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Re: 3D Printed Maus

Post by Herr Dr. Professor »

I am watching, Derek, amazed, envious, full of awe. From your narrative of what you did, I already got a couple of simple, simple ideas accessible to me.
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Re: 3D Printed Maus

Post by Meter rat »

Another interesting, and well documented example of skill to bring this model to life.
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tankme
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Re: 3D Printed Maus

Post by tankme »

I'm still dedicated to getting this working although I've wanted to bin the project. The suspension is a complete nightmare at this point. I got everything installed for it's initial testing. The Maus never ran as a full sized vehicle and I can't get it to run right as an RC model. I've thought about just finishing it as a static build and be done with it, but I decided to try and adjust the suspension again. Running the motors on 3S (12V), it makes enough torque to turn now, but only just enough. The suspension is what is keeping it from working right. Even with stiffer springs on the last two bogie sets on each side, it just jumps all over the place. Going forward in a straight line, the left rear suspension arm bows outward off of the contact patch of the track. When it drives in reverse, the front right suspension arm bows off the contact patch on the track. I have all the lower suspension arms shimmed with washers to eliminate as much side movement as possible. I'm now trying to shim the top pivot points and add stiffer springs to the center bogies. Hopefully it starts to drive better. The battery is way oversized, but I didn't have a 12V battery small enough to fit in the tank at the moment. I do have one on order and in the mean time I will use the battery out of my 1/10th Jagdtiger for testing.

Here's how it ran before the changes I'm making right now:

phpBB [video]


That's all for now...
Derek
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Re: 3D Printed Maus

Post by Herr Dr. Professor »

I hope you aren't too discouraged, for you are doing much better than I. Maybe you remember how my FAMO became a "static" model after I burned out two custom MFUs I got from Germany. (The MFUs were not the cause at all). I can roll the FAMO now: Hand Control. Let's face it: if you weren't lucky enough to be hundreds of miles away from Southern Wisconsin, I'd be driving to your place for help.
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tankme
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Re: 3D Printed Maus

Post by tankme »

Thanks, but the fight isn't over quite yet. :)

The tracks were really loose and the adjustable idler was maxed out so I couldn't adjust them. I ended up moving the idler all the way to it's loosest point and removing a set of 2 track sections. Due to the way the tracks are built, you can't just remove one link. I got all the suspension and tracks buttoned up again, but needed to go to bed last night before doing another test drive. If I get the tank running reasonably well, it will be a limited use vehicle. I will definitely not install a battle system in it. It's just not worth the effort. I also had a track pin work loose as I haven't superglued the pins in yet. As a result, one of the small track links shattered. I always print spares so it wasn't that big of a deal. I'll see if I can get a video of it running tonight when I get home from work. It will actually do a neutral turn on my smooth workbench now going both directions. For some reason it was much better neutral turning to one side. The suspension does still seem to be a bit rough while running, but I've minimized the wheels walking off the side of the track quite a bit by shimming all the pivot points with washers.

On the upside, the turret is turning without any issues. The servo recoil and servo elevation is working well. I still need to print the headlights and some covers that mount on the track skirts on the resin printer. The side skirts have also been cleaned up quite a bit in preparation for primer.

It's still moving along despite my frustration with it.
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tankme
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Re: 3D Printed Maus

Post by tankme »

Still working on the Maus although I did cheat on it a few times trying to get the 1/6th KV-1 ready for the museum battle next weekend.

The 3D print lines have pretty much been taken car of all over the tank now. I did get the covers installed for the drive axles and the covers on the outer wheels. I'm not putting them on any wheel that isn't seen from the outside. Call me lazy. :eh:

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I got what few weld lines I wanted to add completed around the what were probably mud guard mounts, around the fuel tank mount, and on the shell deflectors.

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The front lights are installed without the LEDs until after the painting is done. Still need to run the cable protector tubes, but I think the wiring will go straight through the front plate for disassembly sake.

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And lastly, I installed and wired up the new batteries that will be staying with the tank. I have two 3S1P 18650 based Li-Ion packs wired in parallel. I couldn't find an 18650 Li-Ion 3S2P pack for a decent price and configured the way I wanted so two packs wired in parallel was the best option. Works well.

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Right now I'm waiting for the Miliput to dry before putting the final gray primer coat on. Once that dries, the Maus will be off to paint. I'm not a fan of the tri-color German paint, but I did find a pattern I really liked so the next update should be after she's painted.

That's all for now...
Derek
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Re: 3D Printed Maus

Post by HERMAN BIX »

Magnificent :clap: :clap:

Hell of a thing that.
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tankme
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Re: 3D Printed Maus

Post by tankme »

Thanks Mr. B.

I just noticed, I didn't even post some of the other pics I have of the build...silly me.

This was me trying to assemble the suspension of this thing.

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The original sprocket was hollow and really hard to print as one piece so I sliced it in half in my 3D printer slicer. I then designed a solid hub to be glued on the inside of the sprocket. It also served to align the sprocket and give a solid backing for the screws holding the sprocket hub piece.

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Some others had complained that the replaceable hub on the sprocket printed in plastic was stripping out due to the massive stress the tracks were putting on the sprockets. I decided to pre-empt any issues like that by mating a metal hub to the sprocket. I ended up not needing the bearing shown due to how ridged the metal hub ended up being.

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I created a small jig to drill the mounting holes for the metal hub. I had to also 3D print a small plug (shown earlier) with a 3mm hole in the middle so that I could make sure the hub was fully centered on the sprocket. So far the solution has worked really well.

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After the sprocket was done/mounted, the suspension mounted, and the front idler aligned I was able to put the tracks on. They have been since removed for paint work.

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For a size comparison I broke out the Torro Sturmtiger...

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OK, now it's really all for now... :haha:
Derek
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