RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi all, hope everyone's well and am after some collective wisdom on an issue I have.

Am building a jagdpanther at the moment, the weald foundation jagdpanther as my inspiration. Purchased all of the bits separately from forgebear, taigen / rctank.de lower hull, hl upper, metal running gear and 7.1 taigen gearboxes, got a tk50 board for it too.

When I am assembling the parts and fitting the tracks the rear idler is really 'high'. I have the idlers adjusted with the tensioner to the lowest they can go. When I fit the tracks they are really tight, very difficultto even fit and shoildnt be like this, to the point where they are compressing the road wheels and the rear one is not touching the floor properly.

If I put a spare link in then they are really loose, if I try to tension them then the idler goes higher and the tracks scrape on the hull sponsons. On the attached pics, one side has the extra link and one the original length.

Dom at rctank.de has some henntec tensioners, i dont know if these are any good and may solve the issue. Has anyone run into the issue before or anyone got any advice here?

Pics to illustrate the issue

Thanks in advance

Dave

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

Hey Dave!
First of all, that JaPa looks great, just like the real thing in Bovington!
Strange, I do have 2 Taigen Panthers and 1 Taigen Jagdpanther, but on none of them has the issues you have.
The only thing I did on all 3 of them, is bending the torsion bars. Because on the real thing the Sprocketwheels are higher than on the models. It is difficult to put the spr.wheels higher on a metal hull, so the only option for me was bending the torsion bars to make thr spr.wheels look higher.
What I also did, I cut out a part out of the lower hull, above the idlers, because I had an issue with little stones got between the tracks and the hull, so they blocked the tracks. Cutting out a part of the lower hull just above the idlers, solved that problem for me.
I must have some pics somewhere, as soon as I find ‘m I will post them on here!
Rob.

Just looked at your pics again Dave, the Panther seems a bit high on its wheels.
Maybe consider bending the torsionbars so the entire TD could get a bit lower, which could loosen the tracks a bit too.

The only things missing on yours are some Schürzen on both sides!

Rob59 wrote:Hey Dave!
First of all, that JaPa looks great, just like the real thing in Bovington!
Strange, I do have 2 Taigen Panthers and 1 Taigen Jagdpanther, but on none of them the issues you have.
The only thing I did on all 3 of them, is bending the torsion bars. Because on the real thing the Sprocketwheels are higher than on the models. It is difficult to put the spr.wheels higher on a metal hull, so the only option for me was bending the torsion bars to make thr spr.wheels look higher.
What I also did, I cut out a part out of the lower hull, above the idlers, because I had an issue with little stones got between the tracks and the hull, so they blocked the tracks. Cutting out a part of the lower hull just above the idlers, solved that problem for me.
I must have some pics somewhere, as soon as I find ‘m I will post them on here!
Rob.

Hey Rob, thanks for the response, I can definitely see the tracks getting jammed with stones etc, it's just too narrow a gap, absolutely my concern. Will mull it over about cutting pieces out, would rather get the idlers lower if I can

I am not too far from bovvy, going over on Monday I think to have a look at the real thing and check it, will be getting the schurzen from ludwigs shop once I have it running, he has some metal ones which look good.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

Dave, got some pics for you how to solve the stone issue:

In this pic you can see the tracks were scraping onto the lower hull:
www m

I did cut this section out:


Afterwards it looked like this:


And here it is with the Bovington Lookalike mounted schurzen.

About the schurzen....
The poly ones from Ludwig are the easy-peasy part.
But if they will last long during outdoor driving?
That's why I handmade mine out of 1mm aluminum.
The brackets I did bend out of brass strips, which were bend 90 degrees.
The upper parts of those brackets are screwed into the upper hull with 1.4mm screws/nuts, you can see them at the rear of the JaPa in the pic above.
Next I also screwed the schurzen onto those brackets, they never ever will come off again in the outdoors, no matter what I bump into!
So, it's up to you......
Adding a bit more effort into making metal schurzen, or go the easy way with the poly ones and rebuild everything after you hit something during outdoor rides.....
It's all about choices to make, right?
Rob.

But you also could choose for detachable schurzen.....also homemade out of 1mm thick aluminum.
I did that on my Taigen Panther-G and the Panther-F, a few years ago.
Maybe not scale, but that's not really so important to me!
The stuff just has to stay on the Panzers during outdoor rides!
That was my first attempt to make schurzen onto tanks, a different setup which works good too!

Rob59 wrote:About the schurzen....
The poly ones from Ludwig are the easy-peasy part.
But if they will last long during outdoor driving?
That's why I handmade mine out of 1mm aluminum.
The brackets I did bend out of brass strips, which were bend 90 degrees.
The upper parts of those brackets are screwed into the upper hull with 1.4mm screws/nuts, you can see them at the rear of the JaPa in the pic above.
Next I also screwed the schurzen onto those brackets, they never ever will come off again in the outdoors, no matter what I bump into!
So, it's up to you......
Adding a bit more effort into making metal schurzen, or go the easy way with the poly ones and rebuild everything after you hit something during outdoor rides.....
It's all about choices to make, right?
Rob.

Thanks Rob, will absolutely go with the metal shurzen, have some of the poly ones on a panther and they're so fragile it's impossible not to break them!

Appreciate the photos and the help!

You're jagdpanther is superb, well done there sir

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

If you have any questions during the schurzen build, just shoot me a message, okay?

Rob59 wrote:If you have any questions during the schurzen build, just shoot me a message, okay?

Thanks Rob, will do

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk