Help I’m in Clark’s hell

[Exhibitedbrute]

So given the fact ibu is no more I have been forced to move to Clark’s. So far great similar price and if you can get them the sound files are just as good.

Then you open the box. All good here nice small compact board. Ideal for the smaller tank. Say a Crusader Sherman or Panzer III.

Then you see the remote and think. OK? That’s new for programming when you’re used to doing it on a computer, but there’s instructions for that and they make sense.

Then you look at the tank and the wiring diagrams and think. What?

So here is where I am. I have added the resister to the turn motor, that was easy enough. Then I turned my attention to the lights and fried my brain.

I have gone for the mato light on the tank I’m doing at the moment many of you have seen the build of the tank in question it’s my early a1. I’m getting someone else to do the crusader.

My first question after installing the wires and not understanding the diagram is. Do the light need resisters.

It is using the HL 8 pin top to board connector

[tomhugill]

You don't need resitors for the lights. Wirings not much different to a HL? Unless you're using a asiatam style recoil. But I'm if you're doing that better off converting it to servo recoil anyway.

I've never used a resistor on my rotation units though

Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk

[Exhibitedbrute]

It will be having servo recoil and elevation with a standard LED flash. The wiring diagrams say a resister for the turret rotation so it had one. But I may be working from old instructions. Although it will be powered by a 7.4 lipo

[tankme]

Yeah, no resistors needed. In order to get the elevation servo working right you will need to go into programming mode and use the remote to change the mode from ESC to PWM or your elevation will act really wonky. When you get to that point, I can point you to the right button on the remote. I can also recommend some settings based on my experience with Clarks. I'm at work, but I printed the instructions and make notes on mine to remind me which settings I use on basically all my Clarks.

[maxmekker]

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So here are a few photos to get you going ( if not allready there )

Only thing I usually turn off is the recoil kick back

[maxmekker]

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Clarks says putting on resistors can be a good idea , but as mentioned by others here I to never used one. Allthough 'it' could save the onboard one 'if' the turret get's jamed up. Luckely never had that happend
As for setting the board to operate elevation servo rather than stock HL motor unit for elevation, go to Function Page 2 and select the setting pointed out in the photo

[Exhibitedbrute]

I’m trying to get my crusader running but using a Taigen board testing the gearboxes one goes quicker than the other. It is having a Clark’s any ideas on how to fix this. They are dklm boxes

[tankme]

Is it the PDGBS (big drive motor with small turning motor) gearbox that you are referring to from DKLM?

There can be many reasons why one is slower than the other. It could be a single motor is running faster or slower than the other (dual gearbox setup). It could be any number of other issues causing track binding. It could be a bent drive shaft. It could be that one of your gearboxes isn't seated quite right if it's a dual gearbox. It could be one of the gearboxes has a bad bearing or sleeve bearing. The gearbox itself could be interfering with itself - basically I've had some that have so much sideways play in some of the stages that it touches another stage. To fix I added some washers to the stage that moved too much. Also take a look at ever gear on the gearbox to make sure you don't have a broken tooth somewhere. On the PDGBS, make sure it's fully seated in the carrier and that the gear grub screw on the outshaft is fully seated so that it doesn't touch the gearbox gear.

Just some food for thought.

[john1970]

Those gearboxes need a driving mode to be selected to use them. On the heng long 6.1/7.1 you select dual current driving mode. The Clark board also has selectable driving modes think its mode 2 for them. Taigen don't have a selectable driving mode. If you go on the DKLMRC website about these gearboxes it will give you the info on them.

https://www.dklmrc.com/product/full-met ... 6-rc-tanks

From the website
Features;

1. Straight running - as moving forward and backward are driving from 1 motor, both sides of the output shaft are rotated synchronously, there will be no speed difference and it will keep the tank running straight, and will not be caused by the resistance of different gearbox, and track then made the tank cannot run straight in traditional dual mixing gearbox system.

[Exhibitedbrute]

So it turns out I was running the tests with a board that does not support dklm gearboxes. Thank chaps I will Finnish up on the a1 which is now running, just needs set up and try again with the Clark’s board for it