Tk80SPE not working HELP?!

[Kyoz84]

YouTube video attached. So, i purchased a TK80SPE(KT preloaded), and TK50SP(LS2 preloaded) directly from clark and either i have no idea what I'm doing (after thoroughly reading through the Clark website and checking all my settings 200x) or both these bored's are duds. I have everything plugged in correctly and narrowed it down to only the essential items. Speaker, switch, receiver and there's no sound motors won't move nothing. I was told by Clark the KT sound is pre loaded and it should work plug and play but I get nothing. What am I missing here? Did clark send me two duds?!?!



https://youtu.be/XGeNFAAdmu0[IMG]https: ... f6aeb6.jpg[/IMG]

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[tankme]

I'm going to assume you have bound your receiver properly to the radio. You will know it is bound correctly when you power up the Clark board you will see the battery level for the RX show up on the main home screen of the radio. When it is turned off, the bar will show zero. Turned on it will show something above zero. It's located right under the radio battery indicator. Also, if you try to turn off your radio while the tank is powered up it should beep at you and tell you to turn the receiver off before powering down the transmitter. If all of that is working than it is bound correctly.

Next step is to program the radio: https://dakrctank.com/sbus-board-radio-config/

The reason you get nothing is that by default your radio does not have any channels above 4 programmed to work with a switch from the factory. Programming assigns all the switches so that they correspond to the Clark functions.

After the radio is programmed, the third switch from the left is the start switch (long switch lever). Set it all the way down to start the engine. Move it back up to take the tank out of neutral so it will move.

I would recommend plugging in the volume control before starting it up or the speaker will default to full volume. Using a smaller Taigen or HL speaker can be damaged using it at full volume as they are only 3W speakers and the TK80 amp is rated at 15W.

Derek

[Kyoz84]

Thank you for your reply.
I have indeed programed the radio and bound it as noted on the Clark site.
All channels have been assigned and volume control unit is attached.
I get no sound or movement with the motors attached, nothing from the smoker and when I do any of the assigned inputs from the Clark website.. nothing.
I plugged in the program remote and set it to accept 2s lipo.. nothing, tried 3s lipo nothing.
Unplugged all accessories ie motors, smoker etc.. and only have 1 speaker, rx, and fully charged lipo attached and when I plug it in I hear feed back (light buzz) from the speaker that changes as I turn the potentiometer.

I contact Clark and they told me the reason I'm getting nothing is due to not having a potentiometer plugged in but like I mentioned It didn't help.
I also asked Clark do I need to have the USB program card but the KT sound files are suppose to be preloaded.
I also ordered a TK50SP with pre loaded sounds and I'm getting the same thing. So either I got 2 duds or I'm really missing something here.



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[tankme]

Have you tried a different speaker? I've had a Clark board kill a speaker and I've had a HL speaker come from the factory bad. The best troubleshooting with a Clark is sound. With no sound you can't tell what the board is doing. Even if you don't start the engine with the switch, the you should get the turret turning, elevation, mg, and firing sounds. If you aren't getting any of those it means there is something wrong in the sound part of the board.

You could try and factory default the board. I've never specified battery type, but I suppose I should. Really all that does is set the battery cut off so that the board stops drawing power from a low battery. It should work regardless.

No, you don't need the USB program card as it should have the sound from the factory.

Derek

[Kyoz84]

Yes, I actually have 2 FRS8 speakers i plan to use. I had the taigen speaker plugged in cause I have no speaker box for the 2 visatons and was trying to troubleshoot. Ill switch back and look through what you sent me on the DAK site later today. It looks a little different, On the ckark site it mentions to use M1 so ill switch to M2 or M4 as said on DAK and see if that helps. How would I do a factory reset of the bored and will this erase the files? What other issues could I possibly be having? I hope this is just me overlooking something...

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[Kyoz84]

Have you tried a different speaker? I've had a Clark board kill a speaker and I've had a HL speaker come from the factory bad. The best troubleshooting with a Clark is sound. With no sound you can't tell what the board is doing. Even if you don't start the engine with the switch, the you should get the turret turning, elevation, mg, and firing sounds. If you aren't getting any of those it means there is something wrong in the sound part of the board.

You could try and factory default the board. I've never specified battery type, but I suppose I should. Really all that does is set the battery cut off so that the board stops drawing power from a low battery. It should work regardless.

No, you don't need the USB program card as it should have the sound from the factory.

Derek

https://youtu.be/POGc8XzSOQA

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[tankme]

Factory reset only resets the board settings to the factory defaults. It's just a troubleshooting step to make sure you didn't fat finger anything in the remote control programming.

The sound programmer is the only thing that can change or delete the sound. Factory reset will not affect it at all.

Derek

[Kyoz84]

Factory reset only resets the board settings to the factory defaults. It's just a troubleshooting step to make sure you didn't fat finger anything in the remote control programming.

The sound programmer is the only thing that can change or delete the sound. Factory reset will not affect it at all.

Derek

Thank you for your help. Spoke with Clark and they'll fix it for me.

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[tankme]

After looking at your wiring and looking at all 3 of my TK80 boards, why do you have a yellow jumper in slot CN10? None of mine have a jumper there. It says it's the positive/negative feed for the smoker heater. So in essence it's grounding a hot feed from the board. I would remove the jumper. It could be grounding one of the positive feeds. It's highlighted in yellow below. The only other thing is all of my boards have the SW port jumpered on all the time and my on/off switch is wired inline with the battery. I don't think that is the problem though as your RX is getting power from the board when you flip the switch.

Derek

Screenshot 2023-03-15 030326.jpg (75.27 KiB) Viewed 2647 times

[Kyoz84]

After looking at your wiring and looking at all 3 of my TK80 boards, why do you have a yellow jumper in slot CN10? None of mine have a jumper there. It says it's the positive/negative feed for the smoker heater. So in essence it's grounding a hot feed from the board. I would remove the jumper. It could be grounding one of the positive feeds. It's highlighted in yellow below. The only other thing is all of my boards have the SW port jumpered on all the time and my on/off switch is wired inline with the battery. I don't think that is the problem though as your RX is getting power from the board when you flip the switch.

Derek

Screenshot 2023-03-15 030326.jpg

Yeah i was a little curious about that too. But I removed it and replaced with my switch and still had the same issue.

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