Hi from Yorkshire - DIY 3D printing my own models

[sidneylopsides]

I've just found this site, and it looks great. I like to model and 3D print my own things, and recently decided I'd like to try make my own small RC tanks, around 1/28 scale. I've started a Tetrarch, T34 and a Churchill, with plans to do a Matilda II. I've been planning to make my own RC system and controller for this, but not sure I'll go that route in the end.

I'm aiming for a sort of "high quality toy" grade at the moment. Decently accurate and detailed, but fairly robust as I have two young sons who will want to play with them. I'm keen for simple working suspension and hopefully, sound and light effects too.

[Herr Dr. Professor]

Welcome to RCTW. How interesting! I am especially fond of the wonderfully ugly Churchill, my childhood image of the British tank. Perhaps a sign of my American isolation, I need to look up what theTetrarch. I am curious as to why you chose 1/28 scale---perhaps the limit of your print bed?

[AlwynTurner]

Print bed size need not limit the size or scaling of the model if the design is done correctly.even if using pre-designed models it is possible to slice the stl files for smaller print beds using readily available software such as microsoft 3d builder. Working at smaller scale does however provide benefits such as quicker print time and reduced material cost, however it does limit the amount of detail that can be printed due to the limits of the print mechanism toi resolve smaller details.

Alwyn

[sidneylopsides]

Exactly that! Print bed limits. I started with the Tetrarch as it's quite a simple design, especially the wheel layout. I tried a technique for the body that sort of worked, and now I'm not sure which route to go.

I printed the lower hull as a single piece to mount motors etc, then the top half as an unfolded flat pattern, with the idea it will remove layer lines on slopes, and you fold it up and glue into place. The biggest issue I've had is that superglue doesn't work on the PLA I used! Printing flat like this gives better surface finish to each panel, and reduces print times massively, it does reduce strength though.

[AlwynTurner]

I find the best product to use for adhesion is EMA plastic weld, which does exactly what it says on the tin - welds the materials together. The advantage of this product is that it is fast acting and setting
https://ema-models.co.uk/plastic-weld-c ... -57ml.html
If slower setting time is required such as when joining larger items with substantial surface areas, then I use Revell Contacta professional glue and tack together with pc weld at the edges until the revell glue sets.

What size print bed do you have/printer model - it helps when giving advice or pointers?

Alwyn

[tankme]

I don't print tanks in PLA as the sun has warped my PLA parts. I do print in PETG now and it can be bonded with any MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone) type adhesive. PETG has a higher temperature tolerance (IE: higher melting point) than PLA. MEK is highly flammable and not a great chemical to get on your skin or breath so proper precautions need to be taken using it. MEK will smooth PLA so I would assume it would bond it also. I can test it on a few PLA scraps when I get home.