RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I’m trying to replace my stock barrel with the upgraded barrel / recoil servo unit. I need to remove this slip ring from the barrel housing, but it seems to be glued with some kind of melted plastic or glue...? Anyone know what this is or how to remove it without hurting the slip ring?

Thanks!!

This looks like hot glue. Heat it up (preferably use a hot glue gun or finally a hair dryer) and it should be removable (at least partially). You can use also a wallpaper knife or scalpel and slowly snip off the glue fragments but you must be very careful.
The only thing that puzzles me is that you want to use the servo recoil... TK 7.0 doesn't support any servo. Contrary to TK 6.1 and the planned TK 7.1 (not yet available for sale).

Update….
I’ve got it figured out. For 7.0, simply plug the barrel / breach into channel 10. Since the servo is integrated, that’s all you need to do. I’ve got mine working like a champ now.

Mgruhala wrote:Update….
I’ve got it figured out. For 7.0, simply plug the barrel / breach into channel 10. Since the servo is integrated, that’s all you need to do. I’ve got mine working like a champ now.

Could you please explain further, good stuff.
Are you attemping a servo driven recoil or the stock motor driven? I have a Stug III that needs a barrel recoil of some sorts, and I am familiar on doing a servo upgrade, but of course the 7.0 has no servo ports unlike the new 7.1 MFU's.

Servo uses a 3 wire arrangment of course but channel 10 on the 7.0 is only a 2 wire jst port.
" simply plug the barrel / breach into channel 10" has me scratching my head. Thanx in advnce for your expertise !

The 7.1 MFU is available on Ali Express and eBay with the servo ports.

@zippersnapper as I understand it, can depend on the recoil unit. If it has a motor and uses the micro switch at full recoil like the BB unit you can use it with 7.0 with the motor in CN10 and the trigger in CN6.

If it has Servo then you need a 6.1 or 7.1 (or other board) that supports servo - this is from my recent research to replace the BB in my HL Tiger 1 with a recoil of some kind.

There is also a video on youtube that shows there are pin outs on the main chip in the 7.0 for servo for recoil and elevation, but there are no traces on the 7.0 board or plugs so it shows soldering cables direct to the chip pins - interesting but probably a bit advanced for most!


As far as I can tell you need to temporarily remove two capacitors to access the chip pins, solder the signal cables to the chip pins, then they take power from CN5 which is the WiFi power feed (6v power).

I was hoping/expecting someone would have designed a 3d printer recoil system for servo's, I have seen a few on forums but no STL files either free or paid for download anywhere - clark have a system on their website but I can't see it for sale. I am now on the slippery slope to see if I can make a OpenPanzer system using a generic arduino board - see thread in the electronics forum how baldrick131 did this already.

I have been able to adapt this unit to my Taigen IS-2 and other tanks. For the IS-2 I just had to extend the inner barrel tail with some brass tubing to reach the recoil unit.

Free servo recoil STL:
http://rctanksaustralia.com/store/index ... ucts_id=34

zippersnapper wrote:

Mgruhala wrote:Update….
I’ve got it figured out. For 7.0, simply plug the barrel / breach into channel 10. Since the servo is integrated, that’s all you need to do. I’ve got mine working like a champ now.

Could you please explain further, good stuff.
Are you attemping a servo driven recoil or the stock motor driven? I have a Stug III that needs a barrel recoil of some sorts, and I am familiar on doing a servo upgrade, but of course the 7.0 has no servo ports unlike the new 7.1 MFU's.

Servo uses a 3 wire arrangment of course but channel 10 on the 7.0 is only a 2 wire jst port.
" simply plug the barrel / breach into channel 10" has me scratching my head. Thanx in advnce for your expertise !

The heng long BB recoil unit uses part of the BB mechanism not a servo to pull the barrel back when firing then releases it when firing a BB. So it just plugs in where the bb unit plugs in.