Hey. Nope, it wont flex 100% guaranteed. It is harder than metal, really. Making experiments I tried to cut it with the dremel and I ended breaking the discs, go and figure.
What I did many times, first of all, is to check the hull does not leak. Tap all holes with putty, glue or whatever you can find. Then put it over a piece of paper and pour water inside. If in 20 minutes the paper is 100% dry, empty the water, dry the hull and then pour the epoxy one day later (or when you are sure the hull is 100% dry)
This Panzer III was my first ever tank: (planning to fully repaint it. At that time I even did not make my own stencils!)
https://radindustries.wordpress.com/201 ... i-l-recht/
There you can see up to where I poured the epoxy. I know it does not help a lot that everything has been painted in white, but hey, you can have an idea. Anyway my experience is about 3 milimeters wont not only not flex, but wont break even if you hit it with a sledgehammer or you send it to your neighbour with the post service, lol. Anyway the heng long panzer IV is known for having the gearboxes too low, and they should be like 1cm higher, so maybe you can fix that now, lol
Check also this build, the beetle has the same tech, but this time is not paint. It is transparent and still not very easy to see but better than nothing:
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=30323
Anyway what Id do is to buy 50% 50% epoxy. that means both bottles are the same size and you mix the same amount. If you have one of those bottles which 70% are resin and a 30% are hardener it is very easy to do mistakes and it might end in a brittle or nasty gummy thing. I had nothing but frustration when I had to calculate the measures, so with ones 50%-50% you cannot go wrong.
Oh and two last minute tips, which are obvious but hey:
When pouring expoy make sure the hull is in an absolute flat surface.
And remove the gearboxes.
Don't ask me why I know that, lol.