RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hey all, looking for a little advice on which MFU upgrade to go with, I've done a lot of research but honestly without advice from experienced RC hobbyists it's highly likely I'll run into issues if I rush into it.

I'm slowly but surely planning my ideal Challenger 2 build, I'm a novice at RC but enterprise level computer nerd of over 20 years who rebuilt my first couple of cars with the aid of my retired Army motor pool guru grandfather back in the day and I service my current vehicles. So I've got the confidence and am good with my hands but lack the required component knowledge.

If it's been done to the HL Challenger 2 RC tank then it's likely I'll be doing it at some point.

I need to settle on an MFU, I had the Clark TK40 (I believe it's the replacement to the Clark 24?) in mind as you can select the Challenger 2 sound file when you order, seems fairly configurable but then it looks like you can use a Challenger 2 file set on MFU's like the IBU 2.

Is the Clark TK40 the ideal choice to support...

• 360 turret conversion
  Recoil (gun barrel only), smoke if available but not essential
  TARR smoker (whichever version is best).
  Challenger 2 sound file with upgraded speaker (as good as I can squeeze in).
  Custom lighting setup (indicators, beacon, all TX controlled).
  Lipo 5000+ battery.
  Hobby grade TX, looking at Flysky FS-i6, i8 (got a friend offering me one of these cheap) and i10.

So, after looking at that wish list is the Clark TK40 MFU the right choice or should I be looking at an IBU or something else?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Still on the fence about motors, whether I go for a full DKLM lower hull or replace it all myself piece by piece, does the MFU affect which motor I can use?

I humbly recommend the TK 80s G2. It has gun barrel stabilization and the lighting features you’re looking for. I have tanks with both the 40 and the 80 but the 40 doesn’t have the lighting you’re looking for. I use the Flysky FS i6s which is usually highly recommended for the TK boards.
Other more knowledgeable folks will chime in soon. I can only say how much I’ve enjoyed my experiences with these two particular boards.

Be very carefull - ot's a deep, dark wormhole you are entering! I started off as a complete novice with a Challenger 2 which had some damage when it arrived (broken idler wheel mount) but being impatient I cracked on with it rather than send it back. That was about 18 months ago - now the only original parts are the hull upper and turret - loads of significant changes made:

Heng Long Challenger 2 with matt black paintwork, magnetised hull and turret, forgebear camo netting

DKLM steel chassis, metal tracks with rubber pads & metal drive/idler wheels, PDSGB, RC Tank Legion metal recoil and elevation kit, DKLM cut-away metal 360 turret ring and converted servo rotation, RC Tank Legion FRS8 speaker in 3D printed box

Armoured Models Remote Weapon Station, Megatron slab & bar turret & hull armour, "bird table" antenna aray & updated (drilled) road wheels

Clark TK60SPWG2 board & GBS unit.

Tamiya IR Battle System with RC Tank Legion adapter

Twin Gens Ace 3s 55c 5000mAh 12v lipo batteries in parallel

RC Tank Electronics rotating orange warning beacon & LED cannon flash

Flysky 2.4G 10CH FS-i6S Transmitter & FS-iA10B Receiver (S-bus)

A couple of things I have found out on my "travels" - the DKLM PDSGB may struggle with the standard HL motor wires so you would be besst off getting a pre-wired board (the "W" in the board description - the thicker wires are pre-soldered rather than using the plugs). Also, if you intend using a 3s lipo you will DEFINITELY need the pre-wired board (or solder the wires in yourself!) and I am not too sure if the TK40 board will handle this. On the plus side - with 3s and PDSGB the tank moves pretty swiftly on smooth, open ground (fast walking pace - almost a jog).

Regarding the revolving beacon - I have not yet managed to find a way of making it work via the remote - I plug mine into a spare servo output on the receiver when I want it on.

A final little note - go s-bus = much easier set-up and much neater wiring

Hope this helps you a little - here's a few videos of my efforts and I have a pretty comprehenive build thread on here as well if you get bored

https://youtu.be/Sl7uZ3oiplI

https://youtu.be/jYPK4yXy1Zc

https://youtu.be/t-btFQBjt4o

https://youtu.be/BxVOXiHJaPM

https://youtu.be/M9L-WLZt6x0

Jimster wrote:I humbly recommend the TK 80s G2. It has gun barrel stabilization and the lighting features you’re looking for. I have tanks with both the 40 and the 80 but the 40 doesn’t have the lighting you’re looking for. I use the Flysky FS i6s which is usually highly recommended for the TK boards.
Other more knowledgeable folks will chime in soon. I can only say how much I’ve enjoyed my experiences with these two particular boards.

Thanks, the TK 80s w G2 is likely what I'll be going with the Flysky FS i6s as well.

Added the 'w' spec to the board after reading Black knight's recommendation, pre-soldered thicker gauge wires to supply the PDSGB Gearboxes.

Black Knight wrote:Be very carefull - ot's a deep, dark wormhole you are entering! I started off as a complete novice with a Challenger 2 which had some damage when it arrived (broken idler wheel mount) but being impatient I cracked on with it rather than send it back. That was about 18 months ago - now the only original parts are the hull upper and turret - loads of significant changes made:

Heng Long Challenger 2 with matt black paintwork, magnetised hull and turret, forgebear camo netting

DKLM steel chassis, metal tracks with rubber pads & metal drive/idler wheels, PDSGB, RC Tank Legion metal recoil and elevation kit, DKLM cut-away metal 360 turret ring and converted servo rotation, RC Tank Legion FRS8 speaker in 3D printed box

Armoured Models Remote Weapon Station, Megatron slab & bar turret & hull armour, "bird table" antenna aray & updated (drilled) road wheels

Clark TK60SPWG2 board & GBS unit.

Tamiya IR Battle System with RC Tank Legion adapter

Twin Gens Ace 3s 55c 5000mAh 12v lipo batteries in parallel

RC Tank Electronics rotating orange warning beacon & LED cannon flash

Flysky 2.4G 10CH FS-i6S Transmitter & FS-iA10B Receiver (S-bus)

A couple of things I have found out on my "travels" - the DKLM PDSGB may struggle with the standard HL motor wires so you would be besst off getting a pre-wired board (the "W" in the board description - the thicker wires are pre-soldered rather than using the plugs). Also, if you intend using a 3s lipo you will DEFINITELY need the pre-wired board (or solder the wires in yourself!) and I am not too sure if the TK40 board will handle this. On the plus side - with 3s and PDSGB the tank moves pretty swiftly on smooth, open ground (fast walking pace - almost a jog).

Regarding the revolving beacon - I have not yet managed to find a way of making it work via the remote - I plug mine into a spare servo output on the receiver when I want it on.

A final little note - go s-bus = much easier set-up and much neater wiring

Hope this helps you a little - here's a few videos of my efforts and I have a pretty comprehenive build thread on here as well if you get bored

https://youtu.be/Sl7uZ3oiplI

https://youtu.be/jYPK4yXy1Zc

https://youtu.be/t-btFQBjt4o

https://youtu.be/BxVOXiHJaPM

https://youtu.be/M9L-WLZt6x0

Some excellent information there that will definitely help me. Believe me there's no need to worry about falling down the rabbit hole, it's too late for that.

I spent a week drawing up a spreadsheet on what I need to buy. Including tools I'm looking at about £1500 so far to upgrade the tank the way I want it and that seems to be increasing the more research I do.

It's going to be a slow process as I want to enjoy it but I'm prioritising specialty components that will likely go end of line.

So the up armour kit for the Challenger is at the top of my list, I want it Invasion of Iraq 2003 spec so ERA sides, front hull but not on turret and no bar upgrades.

DKLM lower hull, I suspect that when the Challenger tank starts to completely sell out it this upgrade may well disappear off their site.

Gun Elevation/recoil possibly 360 turret upgrade unless it fits multiple models in which case it probably will be available longer.

The rest is likely going to be available a while so they can wait till last batteries, balance chargers, the TK80 board, TX and RX, TARR smoker etc.

You're build thread is really useful, thanks.

You seem to have documented it really well, unfortunately some of the other build threads used Photobucket and as such their photo's vanished when they went pay to host.

It's great to see the internal layout of your tank, now I can visualise how everything is going to fit in there.

One question, what kind of life do you get out of the dual Lipo 5000's? I believe a single gives you about an hour.

Also, she looked awesome in black, the camo updated one looks great but the black was really unique, I take it that was your take on the RTR amalgamation scheme they did briefly? (except yours doesn't have the eye decal and is up armoured as well.

A very good plan! Most of the kit is generic other than the metal hull and body kit. Chat to James Canham from Armoured Models about your body kit requirements mate. I started off with just the basic add-on kit and then went full-tilt afterwards when I realised the Megatron kit was available. If i could start all over again i would definitely go down the route you are taking i.e. planning everything out first - might well save a few Bob LOL.

as stated here the best option would be a tk60 ore tk80. the tk 40 would lack the 'oomphh' and light options you would be wanting on a challenger .
I would probably say a tk60 spw-v3

s-sbus
p-programable( re programable) sound( if you someday maybe swopp the board into another tank
W-presolder wires( if you plan to run the metall lower hull and maybe PDSGB gearbox, ore on 3s lipo)
V3-ultrasonic ESC

the tk80 has dual onboard amp ( 2x15 watt) but I'm not sure you would be able to take advantage of it in the Challenger lower hull. It's also powerhungry , so a
direct feed of the main battery, ore even a small lipo pack to power the onboard amp on the tk80 is advisable
as for speakers I use the fr5( tk40) ore fr7( tk60/80) if I sell a speaker setup along with a tk board

the flysky I6S is a perfect match ( and remember to add a programing remote , so you can 'tune' the board to your liking )


if you fancy a full GBS setup you will need a tk60/80 G2 setup + 16014(turret rotation) + 16019( recoil setup)

Black Knight wrote:A very good plan! Most of the kit is generic other than the metal hull and body kit. Chat to James Canham from Armoured Models about your body kit requirements mate. I started off with just the basic add-on kit and then went full-tilt afterwards when I realised the Megatron kit was available. If i could start all over again i would definitely go down the route you are taking i.e. planning everything out first - might well save a few Bob LOL.

Thanks, I'll have a chat with James Canham from Armoured Models, I found a facebook page called Armoured models with the kits so i guess that's the place to start there? I was going to order the kit off ebay but the one I saw did not have the front and rear turret ID panels which I do want. DKLM do them but of course shipping and customs will be lumped on top so I'll see what Amoured Models can offer.

I already made my first mistake! I bought metal rope hangars, epoxied them onto the hull and then realised they don't exist on the up armoured version, the tow rope sits on top of the armour packs instead.

Will likely have to dremel them off.

Small loss and fixable, I was too eager to get something done to the tank...shame they are actually pretty good.

Black Knight, for your revolving Beacon, have you thought about a Turnigy receiver controlled on off switch? Then you'd be able to turn it off and on when you wanted to.