RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Just thought I would post this around some sites. 2 of my tanks using TK40S Clark Boards with FSi6S radios. So simple a set up and now with the ultrasonic FETS the crawl speed control is great! Notice that the torque level even at low speeds even over the obstacle. The Sherman has black steel gearboxes nothing fancy as an upgrade. The KV-1 has Waltersons gearbox upgrade. Both tanks are about 6 years old so have seen some run and battle time!

https://youtu.be/7kuuVxHHCHQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CT2MBroBWdg

Great little videos. I love the TK 40s board for the same reasons as you. Perfect match for the FS-i6s!

Impressive, Dean It would be interesting to film an assortment of tanks, attempting to tackle the same obstacle.

43rdRecceReg wrote:Impressive, Dean It would be interesting to film an assortment of tanks, attempting to tackle the same obstacle.

Looks good how do you think it will fare on a heavier metal bobied tanks,I tried the tk60 but it kept cutting out,till in the end the board gave up on me

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roy.kendall123 wrote:

43rdRecceReg wrote:Impressive, Dean It would be interesting to film an assortment of tanks, attempting to tackle the same obstacle.

Looks good how do you think it will fare on a heavier metal bobied tanks,I tried the tk60 but it kept cutting out,till in the end the board gave up on me

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My heaviest tank, a Taigen Tiger 1 with metal turret, tracks, transmission, and chassis etc., certainly pushes the TK22 in it to the limit. The Tiger must weigh around 17lbs. Still, I managed to get it to climb over a 4 by two with relative ease (2'' being the height, of course )
Over-exertion shouldn't cripple the
TK60, however. The board has replaceable fuses, if I remember correctly. These should help it to cope with motor stalls, as well as occasional OTT power demands...if a meltdown does occur
I guess a cooling fan on the PCB would also keep it from having a nervous breakdown.
Really heavy tanks might require non-conventional MFUs, drive motors and ESCs.

43rdRecceReg wrote:

roy.kendall123 wrote:

43rdRecceReg wrote:Impressive, Dean It would be interesting to film an assortment of tanks, attempting to tackle the same obstacle.

Looks good how do you think it will fare on a heavier metal bobied tanks,I tried the tk60 but it kept cutting out,till in the end the board gave up on me

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

My heaviest tank, a Taigen Tiger 1 with metal turret, tracks, transmission, and chassis etc., certainly pushes the TK22 in it to the limit. The Tiger must weigh around 17lbs. Still, I managed to get it to climb over a 4 by two with relative ease (2'' being the height, of course )
Over-exertion shouldn't cripple the
TK60, however. The board has replaceable fuses, if I remember correctly. These should help it to cope with motor stalls, as well as occasional OTT power demands...if a meltdown does occur
I guess a cooling fan on the PCB would also keep it from having a nervous breakdown.
Really heavy tanks might require non-conventional MFUs, drive motors and ESCs.

All my previous metal tanks Tiger1,Panzer4,Stug4 and even the Abrams runs on TK 22 with a blower over them.with no real problems,But when I built the two Cents I could only get the Tk60 because it hosted the Centurion sounds ,they both failed on me.The problem I found was the self setting fuse on both boards kept cutting in and out no provision for a real fuse,at least not on my boards.I then fitted 2 IBU2 boards that I have knocking about,up to date no trouble. Regards Roy

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Yep, we found this too. I have the Taigen Panther G full metal lower and the TK40's couldn't handle it. They would get warm and quit and I had a 10 amp inline fuse that wouldn't blow, the board would just shut down. Wait 10 secs and turn on and off and it would work again but not for long. So I then tried a TK 60 and ran it hard in longer grass, everything on: smoker, sound, lights, and it ran flawlessly for 1/2 an hour no problem. Not sure why the 60's would have a problem with your Centurions. Can you post some pics of them and the set up? One thing I know is I work hard to eliminate all the resistance I can find in the set up using better gearboxes, bearings, etc...

The 60's also work fine in my Firefly set ups. I am not convinced that these Clark thermal fuses are really of any use. They cut in too easily and so I am thinking going forward will put an inline 10 amp fuse like always. I also agree the TK22's had fewer issues but the slow crawling performance which is really critical when we are battling around obstacles was not even near the TK40's with the new ultrasonic FETS...

IMHO the IBU's are great boards but $$$ and with the sbus on the Clarks the set up and operation are just so damn simple. I also can't live without my plinking MG...

dgsselkirk wrote:Yep, we found this too. I have the Taigen Panther G full metal lower and the TK40's couldn't handle it. They would get warm and quit and I had a 10 amp inline fuse that wouldn't blow, the board would just shut down. Wait 10 secs and turn on and off and it would work again but not for long. So I then tried a TK 60 and ran it hard in longer grass, everything on: smoker, sound, lights, and it ran flawlessly for 1/2 an hour no problem. Not sure why the 60's would have a problem with your Centurions. Can you post some pics of them and the set up? One thing I know is I work hard to eliminate all the resistance I can find in the set up using better gearboxes, bearings, etc...

The 60's also work fine in my Firefly set ups. I am not convinced that these Clark thermal fuses are really of any use. They cut in too easily and so I am thinking going forward will put an inline 10 amp fuse like always. I also agree the TK22's had fewer issues but the slow crawling performance which is really critical when we are battling around obstacles was not even near the TK40's with the new ultrasonic FETS...

IMHO the IBU's are great boards but $$$ and with the sbus on the Clarks the set up and operation are just so damn simple. I also can't live without my plinking MG...

That's the set up I was running aI had a 15 amp fuse at first that did not blow,I then switched to a 10 amp fuse that did not blow either , But 10 to20 seconds the board would shut down then much later start again,the self setting fuse was very hot each time .At first I switched to my tk22 from my tiger and it ran fine.By then I had 2 knackered TK 60s.I was not game to buy another. The running drag on my Centurions is minimal.all the road wheels are machined and have ballrace bearings as is the the track idlers,also the out put shaft from the gearboxes run through a support bearing fitted to the hull.So I am of the same opinion has you there fuse is not up to the job.It starts to run a bit expensive to to buy all these electronic boards when you a 8 tanks and they are all individual it not a option to have one board and keep moving it from one vehicle to another.

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NIce, realistic crawling. BUT doing it only by electronics could cause problems (as stated above). First things to change are gearboxes. In my Sherman I have last gear changed. Now it have bigger torque and less power consumption.

Nice!