RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Seeing as the little screw in the battery compartment door is a bit of a pain has anyone come up with a quicker/ easier way to access the compartment? Piece of Velcro maybe, not sure we’d trust tape.

I Dremel the battery bay out of the hull of every tank I own.
I now have space in the hull which I line with "Velcro" where I can put the Control Board, Smoker, Speaker, Receiver and any size Battery all of which have a "Velcro" patch on their base and place them wherever is most convenient and yet are easily removable.
I superglue the Battery Compartment door in place and use filler to provide a smooth external hull base.
Battery Compartments are restrictive.

Keep the screw. It might be a pain, but the first time your battery drops out the bottom while driving you'll wish you still had the screw.

I'm with jarndice. I cut out the battery compartments on all of mine, too. I glue the door in place with plastic glue, then go back over the inside seam with hot glue. Never had one drop off yet, plus it water proofs the bottom as well.

Bill

Think you misunderstand my concern ,I’m looking for an easier way of accessing the battery for charging ,sounds like your way going have to separate the upper/lower hull sections to charge the battery.....unless of course you can mount a charging port somewhere convenient.

It is strongly recommended that you never charge a battery while it's inside the tank. I understand exactly what you're after, and i have a few tanks with the door on the bottom and I just put up with the screw.

Your Taigen Tiger 1 should have a quick release so opening the tank should present only one problem and that is the 8 pin x 8 pin cable that goes from the daughter board in the body to the control board in the hull,
The problem being it is too short but longer cables are readily available to substitute the short one,
If your Tiger 1 does not have a quick release a replacement is available and is an easy fit.
I agree absolutely with Max, Please don't charge your battery in the Tank.

jarndice wrote:Your Taigen Tiger 1 should have a quick release so opening the tank should present only one problem and that is the 8 pin x 8 pin cable that goes from the daughter board in the body to the control board in the hull,
The problem being it is too short but longer cables are readily available to substitute the short one,
If your Tiger 1 does not have a quick release a replacement is available and is an easy fit.
I agree absolutely with Max, Please don't charge your battery in the Tank.

Actually I was referring to my Henglong Panzer III,sorry I didn’t clarify that point. My bad.

I've modded all of mine with rare earth magnets holding the upper to the hull. All you have to do is pull it apart and rotate the upper 90 degrees and sit it on the hull. Beats turning it on it's side, or even upside down.

Here's the inside of my Stug III. It's laid out the same as my Pz III. When I got it, the battery door was missing, so I replaced it with a piece of sheet plastic. Notice you now have a lot more room in the hull, and can run a standard size pack instead of the smaller one that come with it.
The magnets make it so much easier to change the battery or do maintenance.

ALWAYS remove the batteries from the tank when charging! LiPo's can burn, and burn extremely hot. I've seen NiCad batteries vent when charging as well. They aaren't as hot as the LiPo's, but will still burn a tank up.

Bill

Just like you Bill I use rare earth magnets to retain the body to the hull of all but one of my Tanks,
I always buy countersunk magnets as I have yet to find a glue that will hold them in position for long,
In the UK I buy from ----
www.first4magnets.com
Speedy delivery and fair prices and a very large range.