RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

This might evolve into a build thread, but for the moment, it's more of a product review. The Taigen StuG 11/Panzer 111 alloy and plastic lower hull is something of a bargain, I think.
Our esteemed Forgebear sells it:
https://www.forgebeartanks.com/store/p4 ... Scale.html
But the version I got, with all the bells and whistles, came from rctank.de
https://www.rctank.de/Panzer-III-StuG-I ... res-system
They both represent value for money, and a great start to a build; but I opted for the rctank's offering as it comes with virtually every component of the lower hull. Dave at Forgebear can also supply all you need. As an incidental, I was buying other stuff from Dominique at rctank at the time, so it made sense to get it all in one package.
I only wish Taigen had produced an alloy/plastic hull of this quality for the Panzer IV. I went with Asiatam's ill-starred alloy offering, and whilst it can be made to look good; nothing fits as it should, and you need to be signed up to the Magic Circle with a talent for sleight of hand, and a Dremel, to get a decent result.
Here's an opportunity at the same time, to compare methods of uploading pics. This is direct from my Mac, and needs clicking to enlarge the image. and this is what happens when it's copied from Imgur:

Hmm..that's quite a contrast. Gary (Max U-52) likes Imgur, so I thought I'd try it out. I may well use it in future. For the meantime, click to enLARGE will be the way.

Estniche has already begun a comprehensive StuG 111 build using the Taigen Hull
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=25007&start=40
So I'll just mention a few issues you'll likely have to deal with if you use this Hull for your pet Panzer 111, or StuG 111 project.
The first concerns getting the gearboxes to sit squarely on the Taigen mounting plate, so that not only the fixing screw holes line up properly, but also that the output shafts are plumb centre in the gearbox casings.
Estniches solution was to enlarge/ relieve the holes in the gearbox flanges.
But I found the source of the problem was a screw head protruding into the gearbox zone (The screw holds the suspension arm bump-stop in place)
This is the one, indicated by the arrow: I had a similar problem with my Cromwell build.
In this instance, what I did was to grind a little off the screw head, with my trusty Dremel
Then I ground a wee dip into the gearbox casing (having marked it first), sufficient to relieve the screw head. This allowed the left-hand box to fit perfectly parallel to the hull sides, and also lined the fixing holes up perfectly.
I used the same fix on the other side, although the screw was in a slightly different position. The arrow indicates where it made contact with the gearbox side: then Robert et ton Oncle-
Both boxes fit well:

A spot of grinding (without the bumps.. ) Yippee

The other bits and pieces that come with the package fit pretty well. Taigen have even tried to improve the return roller fittings. If you've used the ones from the Asiatam/Taigen days, you'll know just how niggly it was to bond to two parts of the rollers together, without glueing the shaft solid at the same time. ... then the next problem emerged of the roller shaft having no real means of being locked in place. Tightening the locking not on the inside of the hull wall, also tightened the pull on the roller..creating annoying friction. Tamiya rollers, by comparison, are a joy to fit, as the shaft has a 'D' profile milled in at the locking end, corresponding with a 'D' recess in the roller housing. Early iterations of the Taigen.Asiatam setup had none of that refinement. Often when whole thing would spin round...even after the judicious use of thread locker.
Now the revised shaft has fluting on the inboard side, which wedges into the plastic of the hull, where the plastic acts as a sort of lock washer. But first, it's necessary to relieve the inner (female) part of the outer wheel, to accept the stub of the inner one. I use a slow speed 6mm hand drill for this, and also had to file off a visible burr on the inner stub.
It was a fairly tight fit, but then I greased the shaft with Tamiya ceramic grease, and having dabbed some strong thread locker on the mating surfaces (ooohh.. tank porn, eh? ), pressed them together with some force.... and pliers. the Tamiya grease ensures that everything spins as it should. Then fitted the six rollers to the hull. That's pretty much all that's necessary to do at the outset. The kit I got also came with the rear panel (the one that has an inset for the On/Off switch), a complex fast release mechanism, all the required wheels, wheel covers, idlers, and sprockets, together with all the screws necessary to complete the hull furnishings.
For another, £25-30 (or, until Brexit kicks in), you can get an upper Panzer 111 hull, or Stug hull to take the project to near completion.

Great start Roy I bought one of these a while back to replace the plastic lower on my panzer lll, I've not done a lot to it yet so I'll be following along for some tips

Cheers, Lee.

Look what I've got

Just exactly where did you get both sections and what was the total cost ?

Son of a gun-ner wrote:Look what I've got

Yes..so why don't you do something with it, Mick, or all you all marf 'an Grousers? :
TOTM isn't the same as POTM (Parts of the Month)

That's all I've got so far lol.

I need to get wheels and a track set, but will I need those four front steel wheels for it?

43rdRecceReg wrote:TOTM isn't the same as POTM (Parts of the Month)

I'm 59 and I keep giggling over that

HERMAN BIX wrote:Just exactly where did you get both sections and what was the total cost ?

Not sure whether you're addressing Mick, or me, HB. However, at today's prices the Hull and the Upper hull in Mick's pic wouldn't be much more than £70 from Forgebear.
All the bits I got from Dominique (excluding postage) are just under £100. Currently, he's only doing a full-metal StuG 3 upper (with built in recoil) and that's a pricy £125. But a Pz 3 upper hull is only ca. £25 from Forgebear, while the StuG 111 Upper hull (BB version) is £26... a real bargain I'd say, and not requiring a raid on the piggy bank.
I'd suggest getting a second-hand HL StuG ('preloved'..the new euphemism ), and using that as a basis for the project.