RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi
At last my small ESC arrived from china, but without any documentation.
Its going into my HL truck.


Can anyone tell me what plug goes to battery/motor ( google was not my friend, this time)

TIA

I know nothing about HL trucks, but I'm guessing that from L to R you have:-
(1) RX connector; (2) On/Off switch; (3) Power (input) to MFU or Sound card; and (4) Connector to the supply battery- in that order. No doubt some experienced HL truckers here will have the right answer for you though. This is just to get the speculation going.
if (4) is the supply, connecting a battery should produce power in (3) and (1) with the switch (2) on. A multimeter or simple voltage detector should help detect the presence of supply in the terminals.

Thank you Mike. Exactly what im looking for.

No problem. My handy guide everytime I put one into the HL trucks. My Gaz-66 just showed up and put one in there already. I still don't know however what the little switch on the board does. Tried different setting and didn't notice any difference. Maybe for the brake function ?

MichaelC wrote:No problem. My handy guide everytime I put one into the HL trucks. My Gaz-66 just showed up and put one in there already. I still don't know however what the little switch on the board does. Tried different setting and didn't notice any difference. Maybe for the brake function ?

It's for the brake indeed

MichaelC wrote:No problem. My handy guide everytime I put one into the HL trucks. My Gaz-66 just showed up and put one in there already. I still don't know however what the little switch on the board does. Tried different setting and didn't notice any difference. Maybe for the brake function ?

Michael to the rescue!. I think I had the order about right, but (3) should have read 'motor', but I put 'MFU". I knew it was the route/path to the motors; but not that an MFU isn't needed in that particular signal path.
Live and learn, eh? Glad you had that diagram to hand, Michael

Hi guys,

not sure if I am the only one suffering of the chinese ESC plague. If you look hard enough you will find that these ESCs are sold in three different versions and prices. The cheapest ones are rated at 10A, the medium ones at 20A and the "expensive" ones (approx. 8€ per unit) at 30A. I have already killed five of the 10A ESCs by simply switching them on. According to the "specs" listed on ebay or other platforms, all three versions should be able to work with NimH from 4C to 8C (or from 4.8V to 9.6V).

I equipped my GAZ 66 with a 2700mAh 7.2V 6C NimH battery, switched on the ESC and up it went. Four ESCs later I finally ordered the 30A version which now works without problem.
Funny fact: The BEC part of the ESC was still working. The receiver still had power, only the motor output was dead.

My GAZ 66 is driven by a 370 motor with two 47nF capacitors from the two power connectors to the motor housing and one 100nF capacitor parallel to the motor for noise reduction.
Perhaps someone can explain to me why the weaker ESCs died so suddenly. I do not really understand what went wrong. Thanks.

Hi yagen,
Don't worry you are not the only one to have these cheap Chinese esc fail I recently had 2 of the 20A fail on me, but as you mentioned, only part of the board didn't work I still had motors but when I plugged a micro servo into it the thing went wild, I had been trying to run led lights from the receiver connected to the esc and after that they never worked properly I'm not an electrical guy either so I would be interested from anyone with more experience in this to see if there's any answer, I don't expect a lot from these units as what can you hope for at that price but it would be nice to know a little more about the workings

Cheers, Lee.

I must be lucky because I haven't had an esc fail on me yet (knock on wood).

Lee, what do you mean "run lights from the rx connected to the esc"? Were you piggybacking the lights onto the esc wires? What tx/rx are you using? I'm using the flysky 3 channel and plugging the lights into the spare channel by crimping a futaba j connector with just + and -, no signal. So far it's worked well.