Stripping paint on metal parts

[ConcreteTurtle]

G'Day all,

I'm just about to start stripping back the Heng Long Panther G.
I was planning on trying the dettol method (example video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdXFBHKgGpg) to remove the existing paintjob and I wondered if anyone has experience with using it on metal parts like the gun barrel?

Alternatively what paint stripping regime for Heng Long do you swear by?

All opinions welcomed.

CT

[PainlessWolf]

Good morning,
I don't bother with stripping paint and running the risk of damaging the plastic. I use a very good primer then go on with my own paint. A lot simpler and the results are the same.
regards,
Painless

[capt midnight]

Not really sure about the metal parts, but for the plastic I've always used Easy Off oven cleaner. It will take the paint off but doesn't harm the plastic.

Bill

[Tiggr]

Car brake fluid also works but is not recommended - use with caution and wear gloves and goggles......

[43rdRecceReg]

If the paint is properly bound to the tank in the first place, then, like Painless, I'd simply re-prime and paint it. First, though, I'd abrade the surface lightly to aid adhesion from the new daub..

[ConcreteTurtle]

Great, thanks for the advice all.

I'd normally agree about keying in the old paintwork with abrasives and re-priming, however it seems that the existing paint is pretty thickly laid down in some areas. I would be keen to see if the detail underneath is any sharper after stripping, so will try it on the separate jack block as a test.

If it gives any great success or failure, I'll let you all know.

Thanks!
CT

[HERMAN BIX]

My H/L 'G' was done the same way, but I use a gadget called "The Renovator" one of those TV shop deals.
Triangle shaped vibrating sander.
Will tear Jesus off the cross its that good at removing stuff.

One thing about using chemicals would be the residue it leaves behind.
I sand and wipe off the dust, then use a really good automotive self etching primer.
A close match to the Red Oxide used to undercoat the German AFV's
You can buy it from Autobarn its Holts product PS108.

[Soeren]

I have some Taigen tanks prepainted, the paint was applied so thin. Don't bother taking it of, it is a good primer already. I got my Panther painted also the metal wheels. The repaint worked fantastic. The acrylics have good coverage and no flaking. It was a different matter with the bare metal parts though. So, if the paint is not too thick, what I doubt it is, just spray on top of it. You don't even need a particular primer. Just use your base coat of choice and thin it down properly and work up in layers. Just as an example. My Jagdpanthet now has about ten layers of paint not obscuring any detail.

[ConcreteTurtle]

So, I gave it a go today on the jacking block and the barrel cleaning rod tube. It worked out pretty well.

The green HL primer coat is almost exactly the same shade as the underlying plastic, so that freaked me out a bit watching what looked like plastic coming off the parts for a bit. It doesn't seem too aggressive however and had good results in about 3 hours using 1:1 water to dettol.

I'll post up some before and after pictures when I can work out an easy way to post them here.

[jarndice]

If I need to strip Acrylic paint from metal parts I pour a little Acrylic Thinners into an old coffee jar and leave them to soak for a few hours, The paint just peels off,
To get Acrylic paint off the ABS body and Hull, Just wipe the Tank over with a lint free cloth soaked in Acrylic Thinners,
Two or three wipes over the tank will start it coming off.
Tamiyas own label Acrylic Thinners is very expensive which is why I buy mine from "Maplins,
Ask for 1 Litre of"Servisol Electronic Cleaning Solvent" It's actually "Isopropyl Alcohol" (Acrylic Thinners), And it is much cheaper than Tamiya's stuff.
Shaun.