RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I currently take a very simple approach to painting. It gets undercoated, a coat of red primer, then I paint the top coat, be it grey or camouflage. I would love to learn more, particularly about weathering, so I can finish off my Puma. However, when I read about what people have done, it's like it's written in another language. For those who understand I'm sure it makes perfect sense, but more people like me, it might just as well have been written in Chinese. Please note, I am not having a go at tom hugill but I quote from a recent post

modulated adding buff. Then chipped lightly. Filter of sin industries brown for dark green. Lastly a pin wash.

Modulated, filter, pin wash? Could someone please explain this so a simpleton like me can understand what it's all about? I realise that I have possibly gone too far in painting my Puma to be able to implement these techniques, but I would like to do something that will make it look more used and less like a plastic kit that's been painted.

If it makes you feel any better, Mr Hugill lost me in the code as well............
Thats why his tanks are as good as they are...............I think

I am lucky that I like pretty grubby tanks(and other things for that matter) so I can add wash and pigments to suit.
Its the subtle weathering I struggle with("less is more" you will have heard)

Modulation to me is a voodoo art, mixed with witchcraft and Druidism..............

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp2j_8T ... x4yZSdDiJa

I am sure Tom will crack the code asap and puts all this into his own tanks but
for now..this series goes though the whole process too

Thanks. That looks like a great series of videos. I shall sit down and watch at my leisure.

Hey Rich,

Modulation seems to be the buzz word for highlighting, Im my case adding the lighter buff colour to my green in progressively greater quantities to create an effect of highlight and shadows. This is done with an airbrush in my case.

Filters are a very thin wash used to alter the overall tone of the colour scheme, on mine after modulation the colour had gotten too bright and green, so I used a filter of brown to tone it down whilst retaining the effect of the modulation.

Pin washes use oils to create shadow in creases and depressions in model, for example between panels. Again trying to make the finish more 3D than just a flat paint coat.

At the stage my fireflies at it's all still quite brassy and bright, when I start adding grime, streaks, dust and (limited) rust it starts to (hopefully) look more like a real tank.

Thanks tom. Would filters and pin washes be applied by a traditional brush or can they be airbrushed on? I am looking for something that would take the edge off the camouflaged colours, if you understand what I mean.

silversurfer1947 wrote:Thanks tom. Would filters and pin washes be applied by a traditional brush or can they be airbrushed on? I am looking for something that would take the edge off the camouflaged colours, if you understand what I mean.

Pin washes brushed, filters can be either brushed or airbrushed. Sin do a filter for tie colour camp that might be of interest.

Is this the stuff?http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30ml-Tan-For- ... SwFdtX0r0S

silversurfer1947 wrote:Is this the stuff?http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30ml-Tan-For- ... SwFdtX0r0S

s-l500.jpg

Yup

Modulated




filter
adding filters, will unify the model and create a more realistic look

pin wash




Normal wash


fading/oildot