RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Hi,
Here is a Stug III Ausf D model using the Profiline resin conversion kit and mounted on a HL Tauchpanzer III hull. It's a rather difficult conversion that I made last year. It's hard to get it right. Still not fully happy with it but I think it looks ok.

Regards, Louis

I would be very happy indeed with work as good as that.

Good morning,
Your work is inspiring and detail rich. Excellently done! I finished up one of the Profiline StuG lll B conversions in 2015 and understand the amount of 'fun' required to turn out such a well done piece of armor.
Regards,
Painless

Louis I admire your abilities to create such a nice version of early German armor

I think it's more than alright it's quite stunning.

Whatever you did keep doing it it's great work!

I've always been a fanboy early armour examples and this one is top notch

Carl

Lovely model

Really nice!

I bought the same kit, from Asiatam, and the available 'Tauchpanzer III overwanne', but I have difficulties mounting the whole on a StuG chassis. I figured the StuG would have the lowest profile motors but still it won't fit... How did you solve that?

Good morning,
I can assist with this one as my StuG lll B is almost the exact same kit as the OPs. You need a set of the Asiatam low profile gearboxes. They are extremely low, solidly constructed and run steel gears. Other dealers such as Taigen/Torro offer their versions of these gearboxes as well so you should be able to locate a set. Good luck and have fun with your Build! It is some of the best, head scratching modeling that anyone can do.
Regards,
Painless

Louis,

You are being way to hard on yourself. Were it that we could all be so talented. Beautiful work...beautiful paint.

Looks amazing.

Have been tempted by one myself.

Hello Marco

Marco Peter wrote:I bought the same kit, from Asiatam, and the available 'Tauchpanzer III overwanne', but I have difficulties mounting the whole on a StuG chassis. I figured the StuG would have the lowest profile motors but still it won't fit... How did you solve that?

If you want to make a professional looking arrangement, you should get a new low gearbox like Painless suggested, this is ideal. However, if cost is an issue like it was for me, then you can also go the hard way and use the HL gearbox and your Dremel by lowering the rear of the gearbox flush against the floor of the chassis, and lower the front a bit to keep the shaft at the front at the right level. I achieved this by completely sand the gearbox rear plastic mounts of the chassis, and also by cutting dents in the bottom metal gearbox frame to make room for the road wheel mounts and screw on both exterior sides. The gearbox is then screwed right into the bottom of the chassis. The thickness of the resin part can be reduced a bit from underneath to make it rest strait on the metal frame of the gearbox at the right level, adjust as required. Anyway, what was left of the HL plastic upper hull was so fragile and messed up that I had to glue and seal the whole thing against the chassis to keep everything in place. The kit is difficult. I did not have the skills or patience to create a way to have an upper hull that is solid enough to open and close. So, its sealed forever and the mess inside will never show... Hope this help.

Louis