RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Its underway a basic heng/long upper hull butchered

I fitted a tray on under side to stop hatch falling through gap and also to thicken out where hatch was cut out works ok

Great work there ! I'm looking at doing this on an old deck I've got soon......I've seen a metal engine cover and grill set on Fleebay that is rather tempting me when I do one . Great work and keep updating your progress..........well done

I had a spare hour or two so managed to loosen off hinges using the wifes nail varnish remover. I also done some fine filling re-painted base with German grey. I then experimented with some paint colours, basically I've tried to show that with the war in the latter stages the gerrys had limited colours and quality. So I mixed German blue with green and with the brown, it kind of looks like a paint scheme I've seen but I cant remember which battle???

Here's my first tank that got me hooked

Blitz, Hi, If you want to keep on the right side of your lady's temper I would suggest you go to your nearest Hobby shop or go on-line and buy"ZAP7" which is a debonder and it eats superglue.It is marketed by "RIPMAX".
You probably know, but if you don't there are two types of debonder ,
1/removes parts of your Tank from parts of your tank.
2/ removes parts of your tank from YOU.
ZAP7 does the first very well. Apply it liberally to both parts and wait a couple of minutes then gently ---for goodness sake GENTLY!!! Move both parts to ease separation, once they are apart clean all surfaces of debonder. shaun

Yeah just used a household product i could get quick anything with acetate works i think or is it acetone bugger it its done, but i will check out that product

Mr Jarndice is bang on with the de-bonder. The super glue I use normally has a co-produced glue de bonder available in a twin pack. Moments of (ahem ) artificially created absent mindedness can cause a grab for the wrong stuff at a most awkward moment. The stuff has the same look on the tube.

Tell ya what mate, good work for hooking in and getting that far in such a short time
I also like the comentry under each picture,
Anyone without a similar moment like that has never built anything.

Bot on a pot ......love it

BLITZ Hi, I know you say you want to put the power switch under the engine hatch, might I be allowed to suggest an alternative? If you look at the Hull from the front, on the upper side of the support wings/fenders on the left are two small predrilled turrets which are ready for the power switch to fit, If you use this point you can easily access the switch by opening the Radio operator/Ball Machine Gun hatch, If you look at TAIGENS Tiger1 you will see that the Factory fit their power switch here. If you fit a "TARR" smoker then the engine bay hatch you have fitted would provide perfect access to refill it when needed shaun