Please dont ask why..

Rocketman · Post by **Rocketman** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 2:02 pm

Cos its frigging embarrassing but does anyone have a HL Pershing turret knocking around to sell?

Merlin707 · Post by **Merlin707** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 4:32 pm

Just because you've said not to, it's too intriguing not to ask what you've done?

Honest we will only laugh a lot

Rocketman · Post by **Rocketman** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:13 pm

I may have cut some wires a bit short...........................

And then glued the turret up.....

and filled it....

and sprayed it....

and now I need the sodding wires reconnected and I cant get to the points.

brizo58 · Post by **brizo58** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:26 pm

Oh Dear

.....

MichaelC · Post by **MichaelC** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:41 pm

Rocketman,

This is the thread on the diode mod if you can't get to your turret interior for the wiring.

http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/v ... de#p102459

It is done on the MFU and by pass the use of the trigger switch on the recoil/BB unit. Not for the faint of hearts though.

MichaelC.

jarndice · Post by **jarndice** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:36 pm

Rocketman, if removing the glue will give you access to the wiring I would suggest using a debonder, My choice would be "ZAP 7" Ripmax supplies it to "HOBBY STORE" as well as other dealers. It works very well but if you do use it please make sure you clean it off afterwards.

And if that is the only thing you do in this hobby that turns into a disaster you will be very lucky.shaun

Rocketman · Post by **Rocketman** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:47 pm

Hiya

Michael I've looked at that thread briefly and unless I'm missing something are you not just jumping across two pins on the rx 18 with a diode? Can't be that simple can it? My question is which two pins and what spec of diode?

And apologies on quickly scanned it on way home.

Shaun it's done up tight mate and filled and sanded so I ain't pulling that apart!

MichaelC · Post by **MichaelC** » Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:54 pm

Rocketman, it is that simple. The only tricks is that it is a different PIN depends on whether you have a Taigen 2.4Ghz unit or RX-18. If you read thru the link there is another link to the original post which has a diagram for what to do if you have an RX-18 and the diode spec as well. I did mine externally as I didn't open up the MFU case, and also I want to make sure you can see that it is a special unit (i.e. with the diode mod). Just jump the two pins with the diode in the middle.

MichaelC.

Rocketman · Post by **Rocketman** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 12:47 pm

Ok, ahead of trying the diode method here's the cables I have coming from the motor. As you can see its a really old version. The stripes wires are new cables running to the elevation motor.

Any ideas or am I doomed to the dreaded diode method?

MichaelC · Post by **MichaelC** » Fri Dec 12, 2014 2:42 pm

Hmmm......Looks like it is from the old Non-Smoke and Sound version which means that you won't have a trigger for the sound and hull recoil so you might be stuck on the diode method. It is quite straight forward as long as you are using an RX-18 and pretty good with the soldering. The diode is fairly common and you should be able to get it at any half decent electronic parts store.

MichaelC.

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