How do you fit flash unit

[Merlin707]

Hi all,

Can anybody please tell me how to fit a high intensity flash unit?

If you have pictures it would help, it will be going into a Heng Long Sherman Bb version.

Thanks

[jtracks]

Merlin, in my Taigen tanks, they are simply hot glued to the side wall of the turret. Panzer IV and T-34.

Joe

[MichaelC]

jtracks, I think Merlin is asking where to plug in the High Intensity unit. If you have the MFU facing towards you with the 8 pin plug at the bottom, it is the second 5 pin plug on the top row, or the one labelled MG Fire/CN3. If you have an existing BB, there should be a 2 pin plug from the BB trigger already there (To create the firing sound and the hull recoil). You should plug this 2 pin plug into the 2 pin male plug that comes out of the 5 pin High Intensity plug. Big Red arrow is the plug from the HI unit, skinny arrow is the plug coming from your turret.

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[Merlin707]

Hi Michael, thanks for the picture with advice on fitment of this part.

[Rocketman]

Hi guys

Thanks for this I needed to ask this as I'm just fitting one. I didn't realise that the wires coming from the turret were needed so I cut them back so all I have now us the flash unit coming out of the turret. From reading your post Mike it sounds like I've list the hull recoil and shit noise as I cant now connect the missing two pun connector. Any suggestions. Can I close off the two wires to make a permanent circuit?

[MichaelC]

Rocketman,

The two wires coming from the turret is actually hook up to a contact switch. When the airsoft/recoil hits the contact switch, it connects the two wires and that's what triggers the sound and the hull recoil. Once it fired the BB/finish the gun recoil it retracts and releases the contact switch. If you leave it permanently connected your tank will be constantly producing firing sound and hull recoil.

Depended on your MFU, there is a way to by pass it using a diode and it involves connecting two of the pins via a diode connection. I would only recommend this if you are handy with electronics. Let me know and I will go look for the thread for you.

MichaelC.

[Rocketman]

Ah....BUGGER

Ok, well the wires are still there just cut back so I can always reattach them, any idea what colour they are? My problem is I've welded up and filled the two hull halves and sanded back to get rid of the seam and there's no way I'm cracking that baby open again! I can get to the wires though if I know which ones!

Oh well, ill know next time!

K

[MichaelC]

Rocketman,

What other wires did you cut coming out of the turret ? If it was a HL BB, it should be a pair of Black and Red and they are usually attached to each other. You don't need to know which is which as they are just open and close on the switch (i.e. Polarity doesn't matter). You should be able to see it mounted on the side of the BB unit even if your turret is welded. Try this first before the diode method as this will still be simply even if you have to fish the wires. In fact, if you do max elevation that part of the BB should be below the turret.

Michael.

[Rocketman]

Cheers

Ill have a butchers tonight and get back to you.

[Rocketman]

O'k, I'm actually quite embarrassed about this but i ditched all the wires. I just didn't think I d need them anymore! Is it the two connectors on the small motor that peeps out of the turret? If so ill solder them back on.

I'm a bit confused now as I am sure that I have hit the cannon fire button before on a rx18 tank with the hull top off and disconnected and still got the tank rock and cannon noise?

Add to this whilst working on the tank the flash unit managed to slip out of the barrel and now the damned thing wont go back up. You wouldn't think Ive been doing tanks for years would you?

Thanks for the help chaps. What a pillock......