RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Well I had a look in the forums and I was surprised this hadn't been asked before (sorry if I missed it).

Basically: what is the best way to drill into metal? Specifically making small holes, although I suppose cutting straight lines is also of interest.

Now I know that some members of this forum either own or have access to all sorts of exciting machinery and other gadgets - lathes, grinders, etc. We have people building tanks from scratch, turning torsion bars and bearings and doing all sorts of amazing things with metal.

Guys, I read your posts with shock and awe - but I'm just a bloke with a humble shed and the usual hobby / DIY equipment. I have a couple of rotary tools, some small razor saws and a few micro drill sets that I try not to keep breaking. Plus a Bosch hand drill for making holes in walls.

So far whenever I had to make small holes in metal I have managed to get by with my trusty rotary drill - sometimes by 'spiking' the hole first with a hammer and pointed tool – and a lot of elbow grease. Some metals are obviously easier to drill into than others, although since I didn’t pay much attention in Physics class I’m not always sure which is which…

Anyway, the latest challenge has got me pondering. I am working on the AA MG for my Normandy Tiger 1. Basically, in order to install an armoured barrel (panzermantel) into my standard MG34, Aber helpfully tell me that all I have to do is drill a 10mm (that’s 1cm!) hole into my white metal MG – and that’s into the breach housing along the line of the imaginary bullet. And then there’s the Schumo AA mount, a beautiful white metal ‘lost wax’ casting, which simply asks that I drill a hole in the end nearest the MG so that I can make it pivot like the real thing. Then there’s a peg for the mount on the AA ring itself which is supposed to fit into a hole beneath another part which should be at least 5mm deep – only problem is that there’s no hole and the instructions simply say ‘make it deeper’.

Now if these bits were made of plastic – you know, that stuff that most model kits are made of – I think I could work it out. Ditto resin. But metal? I thought this was supposed to be ‘soft’ metal!! My rotary tool with an appropriate micro drill bit does very little but bounce off whilst I swear and risk breaking / bending the precious metal parts – if not through effort then through sheer anger…

So what is the answer? Am I using the wrong bits? Should I be using a lubricant (I read on line of olive oil or even ‘Mark 1 lubricant’ – i.e. spit. I’m spitting all right!

Or is it the drill? That seems the most obvious question.

A search on-line has led me down a couple of roads...

First up, the Archimedes hand drill.

Now this is where I was paying attention in class. He was a pretty cool guy right? He shouted ‘Eureka!’ whilst running down the street naked. I guess he was good at screwing (OK, a cheap joke, but we thought it was funny in those days).

Can this really be the answer? Did it take a guy who pre-dated the Romans to understand what was REALLY required to make up a 1/16 scale German WWII AA MG gun and mount? Please tell me he was right, because this answer is cheap and I have one on its way:

20PC Micro HSS Mini Drill & Archimedes Twist Drill
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20PC-Micro-HS ... 2ed5c4f134

But still I have my doubts. Is it really some sort of lathe I require? Most clock in at £500 plus, but I found this one:

Professional 6 in 1 Lathe Motorized Jig-saw Grinder Driller Metal Lathe Mini Wood Lathe DIY Mini Lathe


This isn’t cheap at £177 – but it’s cheaper. Plus it appears to be coming from China. Plus I have no idea what it really does.

So can someone help me understand what I need here?

Thanks, Tanks

Tanks I was a bit surprised at your entry, you being my hero and all I have an archimedes drill, it's ok BUT a regular PIN VICE is the answer to drilling small holes ( I spent this afternoon drilling holes in tow rope clamps so that I can fit schumo wing nuts) The value of using a pin vice is that you have total control over speed of the bit and the exact position of it, E-BAY or AMAZON have them at very cheap prices, I would suggest one that has a top that spins and a choice of chucks, It is one of the most used tools that I have. Good luck. shaun

Tanks,
I use two sizes of the Yankee Drill in your first illustration. One is simply a large pin vise for use with standard size bits. The key is using the right bits for white metal. You are on the right track. I drill out MG barrels and sights all of the time.
regards,
Painless

Think about it Tanks.... What does that "lathe" look like? ...Looks like a glorified drill press to me I have one...99 dollars US...one drawback was the machinist vise cost as much as the drill ...though even with that I do think it isn't an easy task to drill a hole in a 1/16th scale white metal MG
replacing the barrel with a brass tube would be faster ...and break less bits ...as all you would have to drill is the muzzle break...and the body of the gun...both have more "mass" so less flex when drilling

Good Luck

ALPHA

TFTM, If you do buy a PIN VICE (PIN VISE in the USA) or an ARCHIMEDES DRILL you will need a lot more drill bits than you think, they are very fragile and they blunt easily. shaun

Concur on the use of a pin vice! White metal should be easy with one. To put in context I've used one to know up the railings on the najade and that's drilling 1mm holes in 1.5mm brass rod, sounds easier than it is!

TFTM, My pin vice drilled through the schumo MG34 mount like a knife through butter and if you do any work using PE it really is vital, I think there is a bit of instructional video on using a pin vice on YOU TUBE. It will quickly become one of those tools that you wonder how you ever managed without. shaun

Get a lazer

ALPHA

lposter wrote:If the part you are drilling into is cylindrical, I have had great success with the following. Take the drill bit in a drill press or any drill you have that can be mounted firmly over a vice. This can be jury rigged from a cheap hand drill drill press stand. Put the desired bit in the chuck wrong way round. Lower the drill towards the vice and then grip the end of the bit in the vice. Loosen the drill chuck to release the bit.

Now chuck up the cylindrical part. When spinning, lower the drill towards the vice mounted bit.

This has worked for me for holes down to less than 1 mm in brass and steel. The spinning part centres the drill bit itself. Its just a DIY lathe. BUt it does work.

Otherwise, an archimedes drill has always worked for me. Slow but it works.

p

OFF TOPIC.... Hey lposter... How is that KV2 coming along...she under paint yet?

ALPHA

BACK ON TOPIC.... ..........TanksFM... Zule just posted probably the most practical way to do your maching gun barrel

http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/v ... &start=100

The kit he is using is pretty much what I suggested... as all you have to do is drill the body of the gun...which has more "meat" surrounding the perforation ...I guarantee either method will save you headaches and the horror of broken bits

ALPHA