TIGER 1 CUPOLA'S
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This section is for posting helpful Tips and Tricks only. Questions need to be posted within general questions section viewforum.php?f=14
This section is for posting helpful Tips and Tricks only. Questions need to be posted within general questions section viewforum.php?f=14
- jarndice
- Colonel
- Posts: 8324
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:27 am
- Location: the mountains of hertfordshire
TIGER 1 CUPOLA'S
Usually when you take your new Heng Long/ Taigen/ Torro Tiger 1 out of its packaging the CUPOLA is fixed in the wrong position, The correct position is the commanders hatch hinge should be in the 20 to 8 position and the vision slit positioned looking directly forward, the CUPOLA is glued in place SO CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO BREAK THE GLUES HOLD, If you have a SWISS army knive or any blade that will go into a vision slit ( BUT NEITHER TOO LOOSE OR TOO TIGHT ) Put the blade into the vision slit and GENTLY lift the blade up, you may hear a soft snapping sound ITS ALRIGHT its just the glue breaking, so onto the next slit and same again and do that with each vision slit, the CUPOLA will lift off, unfortunately you have more work to do, The rim in which the CUPOLA fits has a slot and the CUPOLA has a ridge which fits in the slot to hold it in (THE WRONG PLACE) Using your DREMEL grind the ridge from the CUPOLA and do a dry run before glueing it into the correct position. The watchword is GENTLE, if you force it Steve at Welsh dragon or Dave at Forgebear can provide replacement CUPOLA's!!! shaun
Last edited by jarndice on Thu May 08, 2014 12:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I think I am about to upset someone 

Re: TIGER 1 CUPOLA'S
AH Comrade Shaun.. great tip... but I have to say... the possible resulting solution is the bestjarndice wrote:Usually when you take your new Heng Long/ Taigen/ Torro Tiger 1 out of its packaging the CUPOLA is fixed in the wrong position, The correct position is the commanders hatch hinge should be in the 8 o clock position and the vision slit positioned looking directly forward, the CUPOLA is glued in place SO CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO BREAK THE GLUES HOLD, If you have a SWISS army knive or any blade that will go into a vision slit ( BUT NEITHER TOO LOOSE OR TOO TIGHT ) Put the blade into the vision slit and GENTLY lift the blade up, you may hear a soft snapping sound ITS ALRIGHT its just the glue breaking, so onto the next slit and same again and do that with each vision slit, the CUPOLA will lift off, unfortunately you have more work to do, The rim in which the CUPOLA fits has a slot and the CUPOLA has a ridge which fits in the slot to hold it in (THE WRONG PLACE) Using your DREMEL grind the ridge from the CUPOLA and do a dry run before glueing it into the correct position. The watchword is GENTLE, if you force it Steve at Welsh dragon or Dave at Forgebear can provide replacement CUPOLA's!!! shaun

Pirozhki Shaun
ALPHA
- HERMAN BIX
- Major-General
- Posts: 11203
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:15 am
- Location: Gold Coast,Australia
Re: TIGER 1 CUPOLA'S
I agree, the best and most stress free solution is to get one that is hatch/slit oriented right and then mount it correctly.
the glue looney that secured the cupola body to the turret roof is one thing, but the other guy that positioned the hatch & inner rim to the cupola body in relation to the forward facing slit is another.
Its a saw job to change.
The hatch position in relation to the forward slit on the plastic stock cupolas is about a minute shy of the 10 oclock mark. (higher than 9 - lower than 10)
Indexing around to the next slit puts you at the 7 oclock position.(bloody near a T34 "mickey mouse" hatch spot)
Its again a call out for unassembled HL tanks...............but then what would we have to talk about eh
!!!!
the glue looney that secured the cupola body to the turret roof is one thing, but the other guy that positioned the hatch & inner rim to the cupola body in relation to the forward facing slit is another.
Its a saw job to change.
The hatch position in relation to the forward slit on the plastic stock cupolas is about a minute shy of the 10 oclock mark. (higher than 9 - lower than 10)
Indexing around to the next slit puts you at the 7 oclock position.(bloody near a T34 "mickey mouse" hatch spot)
Its again a call out for unassembled HL tanks...............but then what would we have to talk about eh

HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
- jarndice
- Colonel
- Posts: 8324
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:27 am
- Location: the mountains of hertfordshire
Re: TIGER 1 CUPOLA'S
Herman Hi, I just read your piece, and I thought "WHAT the **** IS HE TALKING ABOUT" then I reread what I had written, DOH!!! I meant to write 20 to 8, I have no idea why I put 8 o clock, if you can raise the interest you will see I have changed it,thank you old friend, I don't suppose you would like the job as my personal editor? No money but plenty of work, Yet again thank you. shaun
I think I am about to upset someone 

- HERMAN BIX
- Major-General
- Posts: 11203
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:15 am
- Location: Gold Coast,Australia
Re: TIGER 1 CUPOLA'S
Ahh, sweet as mate, you actually have the more accurate indicator..................at 20 to 8 you have BOTH hands on the mickey mouse clock pointing to the right spot, I only had the little hand
you did write 20 to 8 but 8 is fine.
The plastic ones I bought extra, and the one on the kit were all wrong.
The one I got from Canada was bang on the money.
Hatch hinge at the (little single hour indicated hand) 20:00hrs position in relation to the forward vision slit at the 1800hrs position .....as viewed from the top perspective with the turret in the forward facing position
!!!!!!
Now that you made me all precious & self concious I have to run out & buy a proper metal drivers vision block to be rid of the HL one I tried to ignore on my 'Mighty Whitey' Tiger. I blame you for the $9 investment, ...........Trust me mate, theres no future in having ME edit anyones net based coments, HHHEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL no
!!!!!!!!!!

The plastic ones I bought extra, and the one on the kit were all wrong.
The one I got from Canada was bang on the money.
Hatch hinge at the (little single hour indicated hand) 20:00hrs position in relation to the forward vision slit at the 1800hrs position .....as viewed from the top perspective with the turret in the forward facing position

Now that you made me all precious & self concious I have to run out & buy a proper metal drivers vision block to be rid of the HL one I tried to ignore on my 'Mighty Whitey' Tiger. I blame you for the $9 investment, ...........Trust me mate, theres no future in having ME edit anyones net based coments, HHHEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL no

HL JAGDPANTHER,HL TIGER 1,HL PzIII MUNITIONSCHLEPPER, HL KT OCTOPUS,HL PANTHER ZU-FUSS,HL STuG III,HL T34/85 BEDSPRING,
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85
HL PZIV MALTA,MATORRO JAGDTIGER,HL F05 TIGER,TAMIYA KT,HL PANTHERDOZER,HL EARLY PANTHER G,TAIGEN/RAMINATOR T34/76,
HL AN-BRI-RAM SU-85