1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
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Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
Looking sharp as as usual. The pace of work is, as usual, very fast, but it seems that you are retired and have a lot of time
What painting scheme did you choose?
What painting scheme did you choose?
Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
Thanks, yes, retired with lots of hobby time between vacations... that's the way i planned my life after 34 years in IT.
The kit itself comes with 5 options for markings, 3 Korean way and 2 late WW2. No real need to get others on the market.
It has the two well known (and authentic) "Tiger Face" examples that every kit maker seems to include. However, i will opt for a more standard looking Sherman in worn out Olive Drab. As the kit is well detailed and beautiful by itself, i am not planning for heavy weathering, mud or storage to hide any of it. I am not good at that anyway.
25th Inf Div, Korea, 1951
36th Inf Div, Korea 1951
7th Inf Div, Korea 1951
4th Armored Div, 1945
12th Armored Div, 1945
Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
Hi everyone,
The following post are for the remaining details before painting.
Next step, the M2HB Browning machine gun.
To me, it's the cherry on top, highly visible and it should not be neglected as it enhances the model.
Everything on top of the Takom turret matches the following graph.
For those who were wondering what is the purposes of the apparatus at the back of the turret.
Korean war M4A3E8 with the M2HB Browning in action. It has the carrying handle installed under the barrel but its not always present. It has an interesting mount for a spare sprocket. Strange huts are in the background.
Picture from https://warfarehistorynetwork.com/artic ... -the-yalu/
With the quality of the kit, i was excited and expecting a next generation M2HB Browning to be available.
However, when i checked the sprue for the first time, my excitement turned to deep disapointment very fast. First thing i noticed is the ammo box moulded with the mount, with limited details. Model companies used to do that in the 1960s. On a prime 1/16 scale model in 2023, it's ridiculous.
The Takom Browning lacks the finesse seen on the Tamiya Browning that came out with the Pershing 20 years ago. I expected better.
The parts are full of thick sprue attachments in the worst places that are difficult to remove without damaging the model. The gun sights are a thick blob of plastic.
The worst is the barrel support, a key part of the M2. It's totally botched and inaccurate. Take note of how the holes on the second and fourth row have been moulded horizontally instead of towards to center.
What happened Takom ??
I tried to drill the holes correctly but i could not make a clean path to the center with basic tools, going sideways because of the moulding, it's ruined. In any cases, i had already made the decision to discard and replace it.
It is sad that Takom can create a superb Sherman model but is willing to botch the Browning machine gun in such a way. Seems to me they reused the poor Browning that is coming with their Jeep MB model, tried to make some changes to improve it, but they made it worse.
Takom needs a clean start for the Browning M2, redesign the whole thing from scratch and provide a machine gun that is worthy of putting on top of their otherwise superb Sherman.
continuing on following post.
The following post are for the remaining details before painting.
Next step, the M2HB Browning machine gun.
To me, it's the cherry on top, highly visible and it should not be neglected as it enhances the model.
Everything on top of the Takom turret matches the following graph.
For those who were wondering what is the purposes of the apparatus at the back of the turret.
Korean war M4A3E8 with the M2HB Browning in action. It has the carrying handle installed under the barrel but its not always present. It has an interesting mount for a spare sprocket. Strange huts are in the background.
Picture from https://warfarehistorynetwork.com/artic ... -the-yalu/
With the quality of the kit, i was excited and expecting a next generation M2HB Browning to be available.
However, when i checked the sprue for the first time, my excitement turned to deep disapointment very fast. First thing i noticed is the ammo box moulded with the mount, with limited details. Model companies used to do that in the 1960s. On a prime 1/16 scale model in 2023, it's ridiculous.
The Takom Browning lacks the finesse seen on the Tamiya Browning that came out with the Pershing 20 years ago. I expected better.
The parts are full of thick sprue attachments in the worst places that are difficult to remove without damaging the model. The gun sights are a thick blob of plastic.
The worst is the barrel support, a key part of the M2. It's totally botched and inaccurate. Take note of how the holes on the second and fourth row have been moulded horizontally instead of towards to center.
What happened Takom ??
I tried to drill the holes correctly but i could not make a clean path to the center with basic tools, going sideways because of the moulding, it's ruined. In any cases, i had already made the decision to discard and replace it.
It is sad that Takom can create a superb Sherman model but is willing to botch the Browning machine gun in such a way. Seems to me they reused the poor Browning that is coming with their Jeep MB model, tried to make some changes to improve it, but they made it worse.
Takom needs a clean start for the Browning M2, redesign the whole thing from scratch and provide a machine gun that is worthy of putting on top of their otherwise superb Sherman.
continuing on following post.
Last edited by lmcq11 on Fri Dec 15, 2023 11:07 pm, edited 14 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
Takom also provides a separate WW2 ammo box, it's basic. They could have just created a separate mount and reuse it...
Takom did not bother create the M2 trademark carrying handle under the barrel.
Out of curiosity, i checked the Trumpeter/I Love Kit model to see if they had done a better job with the Browning. It's a bit better but very basic. The ammo box mount and cradle are separate but lack finesse. No carrying handle on the barrel either, but wait a minute, what is that ?
Big mistake, Trumpeter is providing a WW2 Browning with the QCB (Quick Change Barrel) of the 1990s... Looks like Trumpeter simply borrowed the Browning from a more recent vehicle and forgot to adapt it... That's bad but it can easily be removed. The instructions do not mention that. Sad for the guys who do not know and will put this on their WW2 Sherman.
Browning with QCB handle, it's not a WW2 feature.
Trumpeter got the barrel support more accurately than Takom, but it's very basic, not as clearly defined at the Tamiya version, not mentioning the Aber brass one.
I have seen AFV Modeller magazine offering an expensive 3D printed Browning M2 replacement for the Takom kits. I am suspicious of 3D printed fine details so i don't know if it is worth it.
Let's bring in a Tamiya M2 Browning one more time. I always keep a few in inventory and it usually sells for about $10.
And let's use Aber stuff at the same time. They are getting harder to find. These are the super detailing kit for the Tamiya Browning and also the separate brass ammo and M2A1 box for post WW2 vehicles.
I have built and reported on these countless times but i try to improve the upgrade method with every attempt so i will focus on that here.
Knowing that it will be loaded with Aber ammo, i prepared the part for it right away as it is more difficult to do it later. Some light trim and cleaning up the interior is required.
continuing on following post
Takom did not bother create the M2 trademark carrying handle under the barrel.
Out of curiosity, i checked the Trumpeter/I Love Kit model to see if they had done a better job with the Browning. It's a bit better but very basic. The ammo box mount and cradle are separate but lack finesse. No carrying handle on the barrel either, but wait a minute, what is that ?
Big mistake, Trumpeter is providing a WW2 Browning with the QCB (Quick Change Barrel) of the 1990s... Looks like Trumpeter simply borrowed the Browning from a more recent vehicle and forgot to adapt it... That's bad but it can easily be removed. The instructions do not mention that. Sad for the guys who do not know and will put this on their WW2 Sherman.
Browning with QCB handle, it's not a WW2 feature.
Trumpeter got the barrel support more accurately than Takom, but it's very basic, not as clearly defined at the Tamiya version, not mentioning the Aber brass one.
I have seen AFV Modeller magazine offering an expensive 3D printed Browning M2 replacement for the Takom kits. I am suspicious of 3D printed fine details so i don't know if it is worth it.
Let's bring in a Tamiya M2 Browning one more time. I always keep a few in inventory and it usually sells for about $10.
And let's use Aber stuff at the same time. They are getting harder to find. These are the super detailing kit for the Tamiya Browning and also the separate brass ammo and M2A1 box for post WW2 vehicles.
I have built and reported on these countless times but i try to improve the upgrade method with every attempt so i will focus on that here.
Knowing that it will be loaded with Aber ammo, i prepared the part for it right away as it is more difficult to do it later. Some light trim and cleaning up the interior is required.
continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Fri Dec 15, 2023 1:20 pm, edited 8 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
Instead of installing parts on the body one at a time, i created sub assemblies, which makes it a lot simpler to build.
I created grooves under some flat PE parts so that the super glue can have a better grip on the parts.
The loading handles on the right of the MG is fragile and will only be added to the body after painting and installation on the turret. In order for the Tamiya M2 to fit the Takom mount on the turret, a brass tube was used to augment the size of the pin for a perfect match.
The Aber ammo box is much better than the Voyager one, and is of the right size.'
Be aware that this is a M2A1 ammo box that was introduced in 1950. It's ok to use it on a Korean war vehicle (along with WW2 ammo boxes) but it should not be used on a WW2 vehicle.
Not perfect but it's pretty good. Little mistakes can be seen. It's difficult and the instructions are really basic. Dimensions on the key tiny brass rods for the lock is left to the builder to figure them out by himself and get it exactly right with some luck.
The Aber box opens, closes and locks like the real thing. It does not get better than this.
However, when shown mounted on the machine gun, it seems the top cover of the box is completely removed. As i do not plan to strip apart my beautiful ammo box that i just made and only keep the bottom, i will create a separate simpler one for the mount, and use the complete one for display on the turret as a spare ammo box.
Take note of the ammo links. They are black and not in brass color.
The 50 cal ammo belt links.
These things cannot really be painted... I decided to use the gun bluing solution planned for the tracks on the Aber ammo links, it works perfectly.
These ammo links are so tiny. I used a rod, applied over the links, and i roll the big finger first over the rod with the tip of a blade, then move the rod to the other two fingers and do the same. When i cut the links from the sprue, i try to leave as much of the connector as possible and it gives more lenght to the fingers, and help keeping the ammo in place. It does not show when done correctly. The 30 links are folded in about 1 hour while thinking about the good old times with former girlfriends or recent trips with my wonderful wife to make this task go easier on my mind.
Continuing on following post
I created grooves under some flat PE parts so that the super glue can have a better grip on the parts.
The loading handles on the right of the MG is fragile and will only be added to the body after painting and installation on the turret. In order for the Tamiya M2 to fit the Takom mount on the turret, a brass tube was used to augment the size of the pin for a perfect match.
The Aber ammo box is much better than the Voyager one, and is of the right size.'
Be aware that this is a M2A1 ammo box that was introduced in 1950. It's ok to use it on a Korean war vehicle (along with WW2 ammo boxes) but it should not be used on a WW2 vehicle.
Not perfect but it's pretty good. Little mistakes can be seen. It's difficult and the instructions are really basic. Dimensions on the key tiny brass rods for the lock is left to the builder to figure them out by himself and get it exactly right with some luck.
The Aber box opens, closes and locks like the real thing. It does not get better than this.
However, when shown mounted on the machine gun, it seems the top cover of the box is completely removed. As i do not plan to strip apart my beautiful ammo box that i just made and only keep the bottom, i will create a separate simpler one for the mount, and use the complete one for display on the turret as a spare ammo box.
Take note of the ammo links. They are black and not in brass color.
The 50 cal ammo belt links.
These things cannot really be painted... I decided to use the gun bluing solution planned for the tracks on the Aber ammo links, it works perfectly.
These ammo links are so tiny. I used a rod, applied over the links, and i roll the big finger first over the rod with the tip of a blade, then move the rod to the other two fingers and do the same. When i cut the links from the sprue, i try to leave as much of the connector as possible and it gives more lenght to the fingers, and help keeping the ammo in place. It does not show when done correctly. The 30 links are folded in about 1 hour while thinking about the good old times with former girlfriends or recent trips with my wonderful wife to make this task go easier on my mind.
Continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Fri Dec 15, 2023 1:17 am, edited 4 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
Creating the 50 cal ammo belt
It's easy to insert the ammo if the links are correctly shaped. The problem is to keep the ammo there and all aligned because they try to get out of the belt in every way they can, driving me mad.
Adding a drop of superglue on the back of each link helps but not always.
After 3 hours of work, and a lot of cursing and prayers, a 30 round ammo belt is finally created.
The simpler ammo box for the cradle is created using brass plates with dimensions taken from the Aber box.
Half a hinge is taken from a 1/16 Voyager ammo box kit for the M551 Sheridan. The fingers to be bended are too long and need to be cut by almost half. Be aware that these Voyager ammo boxes are too small to fit the Aber ammo or the Tamiya cradle, but look good on their own, if you can manage to build them...
The ammo box without cover is ready to be loaded. I added plasticard strip at the bottom to fill it in half because the 30 round belt will only cover the first 2 top rows.
The Tamiya/Aber Browning M2HB is mounted on the Takom Sherman. As i was saying, it's the cherry on top.
The M2 machine gun is not yet glued to the mount. It is still separate in order to facilitate painting.
I placed the ammo rapidly for the pictures. After painting, i will take more care placing every round correctly.
As mentioned, the fragile loading handle on the right of the Browning will be added after painting.
continuing on following post
It's easy to insert the ammo if the links are correctly shaped. The problem is to keep the ammo there and all aligned because they try to get out of the belt in every way they can, driving me mad.
Adding a drop of superglue on the back of each link helps but not always.
After 3 hours of work, and a lot of cursing and prayers, a 30 round ammo belt is finally created.
The simpler ammo box for the cradle is created using brass plates with dimensions taken from the Aber box.
Half a hinge is taken from a 1/16 Voyager ammo box kit for the M551 Sheridan. The fingers to be bended are too long and need to be cut by almost half. Be aware that these Voyager ammo boxes are too small to fit the Aber ammo or the Tamiya cradle, but look good on their own, if you can manage to build them...
The ammo box without cover is ready to be loaded. I added plasticard strip at the bottom to fill it in half because the 30 round belt will only cover the first 2 top rows.
The Tamiya/Aber Browning M2HB is mounted on the Takom Sherman. As i was saying, it's the cherry on top.
The M2 machine gun is not yet glued to the mount. It is still separate in order to facilitate painting.
I placed the ammo rapidly for the pictures. After painting, i will take more care placing every round correctly.
As mentioned, the fragile loading handle on the right of the Browning will be added after painting.
continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Fri Dec 15, 2023 1:24 am, edited 4 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
In order for the loader's oval hatch to open and rest correctly, the latch needs to be made operable instead of being glued to the base. It's easy. just need to remove the pin heads, drill and insert a brass rod. As it is quite visible, it's worth taking 15 minutes to do it.
The two resin figures were purchased on ebay.
Resin cast figures are still superior. I was not satisfied by the use of 3D printed figures on the Centurion Sho't build. Still a long way to go to match the finesse of resin cast figures. Sorry if i offended someone by saying so.
continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Fri Dec 15, 2023 1:32 am, edited 3 times in total.
Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
The details on these figures are just fantastic.
I founds the plastic bolt heads on the mantlet canvas cover to be too round and were replaced by M0.6 brass bolts. They are not screwed. A hole was drilled big enough for them to slide in with some superglue on the body for a strong fix, better than if i had tried to screw them. They would likely have broken, and that is bad when it happens.
Periscope masks were put on for the painting phase prior to the installation of the guards.
The storage shelf on the back plate was placed in folded position. It looks good and is well detailed with the cleaning rods exposed this way. As this is an RC vehicle, the thin and fragile shelf and hinges would not have lasted long in extended position before being hit by something and destroyed.
I forgot to add a soldering line on the joint for the machine gun storage mount at the rear of the turret.
Need to find a better place for my spare ammo box.
continung on following post
I founds the plastic bolt heads on the mantlet canvas cover to be too round and were replaced by M0.6 brass bolts. They are not screwed. A hole was drilled big enough for them to slide in with some superglue on the body for a strong fix, better than if i had tried to screw them. They would likely have broken, and that is bad when it happens.
Periscope masks were put on for the painting phase prior to the installation of the guards.
The storage shelf on the back plate was placed in folded position. It looks good and is well detailed with the cleaning rods exposed this way. As this is an RC vehicle, the thin and fragile shelf and hinges would not have lasted long in extended position before being hit by something and destroyed.
I forgot to add a soldering line on the joint for the machine gun storage mount at the rear of the turret.
Need to find a better place for my spare ammo box.
continung on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Fri Dec 15, 2023 1:36 am, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
Not perfect but it's pretty good. little mistakes can be seen but it's difficult...
Look bloody perfect to me. Another stunning build.
Look bloody perfect to me. Another stunning build.
Re: 1/16 RC M4A3E8 Korean war - Restoring Tamiya M4 with Takom kit - build
This is it, the construction phase is over. One last view of the model with good natural light before the painting phase.
continuing on following post
continuing on following post
Last edited by lmcq11 on Thu Dec 14, 2023 11:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.