RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

tankme wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 12:11 am Mine has the all metal track without the rubber pads and it still screams across the battlefield with the Taigen 390s.

Once I get the RED motors fitted I will try running it with the metal tracks again, but the lighter weight plastic tracks allow the tank to run much better with the standard motors as they need less power to drive them.

As a matter of interest, what did you change/fit to get the Merkava fast turret rotation?

The barrel elevation/depression movement could do with improving too.

When I fit the Mk5 conversation kit the turret will need to be removed and taken apart, so it would be an ideal time to improve the turret turning speed and the barrel movements

zooma wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 8:35 am

tankme wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 12:11 am Mine has the all metal track without the rubber pads and it still screams across the battlefield with the Taigen 390s.

Once I get the RED motors fitted I will try running it with the metal tracks again, but the lighter weight plastic tracks allow the tank to run much better with the standard motors as they need less power to drive them.

As a matter of interest, what did you change/fit to get the Merkava fast turret rotation?

The barrel elevation/depression movement could do with improving too.

When I fit the Mk5 conversation kit the turret will need to be removed and taken apart, so it would be an ideal time to improve the turret turning speed and the barrel movements

I swapped the gray Merkava type rotation gearbox in place of the Haya one which is probably equivalent to the HL version. This is the one: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568070 ... pt=glo2usa

tankme wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 3:23 pm

zooma wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 8:35 am

tankme wrote: ↑Sun Sep 22, 2024 12:11 am Mine has the all metal track without the rubber pads and it still screams across the battlefield with the Taigen 390s.

Once I get the RED motors fitted I will try running it with the metal tracks again, but the lighter weight plastic tracks allow the tank to run much better with the standard motors as they need less power to drive them.

As a matter of interest, what did you change/fit to get the Merkava fast turret rotation?

The barrel elevation/depression movement could do with improving too.

When I fit the Mk5 conversation kit the turret will need to be removed and taken apart, so it would be an ideal time to improve the turret turning speed and the barrel movements

I swapped the gray Merkava type rotation gearbox in place of the Haya one which is probably equivalent to the HL version. This is the one: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568070 ... pt=glo2usa

Thanks Derek,

aliexpress.us still had 4 left when I checked and I have bought one, so when it arrives I will take my oldest Chieftain apart to fit the Mk5 turret and fit the faster Merkava type rotation gearbox at the same time.

Thanks for the link !

Bob.

The HAYA decal sheet is good - but every HAYA Chieftain tank that I see has the same decals fitted !

At the moment there is no choice or supplier of alternative decals - but the HAYA decal sheet does include two registration numbers - but I am not sure what help they would be in making another Chieftain with these different registration number decals?

There is a large yellow 11A that goes on the rear of the turret. Is this a call sign ? - and if so, I am guessing that it would only apply to one of the registration numbers (02 EB 63 shown on drawings).

I am guessing (again) that all Chieftains would have their own "call sign" and so this yellow decal would not be applied to the other registration number 05 EB 65?

Being illiterate to British Army tank markings - I have no idea what the included (large and small) sized white number 32 indicates? Each size of the 32 decal is in the middle of a white square . What does this number represent?........and can it be used on more than one tank? (only the large size number 32 is shown on the placement drawings - so what use is the smaller size number 32?).

Likewise - the white triangles ! Only one size of these is supplied - but there are two of them!

The placement drawings show one of these white triangles fixed on left hand side of the turret box and one of the white 32 (in a white square) on the side of the right hand turret box. As two of each of these decals are supplied - does this mean that these decals could also be used on a different tank to the one that carries the yellow 11A "call sign"?

Any explaination of what these various markings designate would be welcomed (!) as I am working on a second Chieftain and would ideally like it NOT to wear the same decals as my first one!

I could be wrong, and most probably am. But from my references the shape indicates squadron and the colour indicates the company, tactical symbol and call sign. So 32, is the call Sign. A diamond is HQ, a triangle is for A sqn, a square is B sqn, a circle is C sqn. If I have interpreted my reference correctly your decals would indicate, tank Call sign 32, of of B sqn, of the Scots DG. Of course colours would change. I know that blue was used by A sqn of the Sherwood Rangers.

Meter rat wrote: ↑Thu Oct 24, 2024 8:15 pm I could be wrong, and most probably am. But from my references the shape indicates squadron and the colour indicates the company, tactical symbol and call sign. So 32, is the call Sign. A diamond is HQ, a triangle is for A sqn, a square is B sqn, a circle is C sqn. If I have interpreted my reference correctly your decals would indicate, tank Call sign 32, of of B sqn, of the Scots DG. Of course colours would change. I know that blue was used by A sqn of the Sherwood Rangers.

Thanks for the info Meter rat.

Your knowledge on tank insignia is far greater than mine (I don't have any!) and nobody else has contributed so I think your information must be correct!.

If anyone else has any additional information regarding the markings carried on Chieftain tanks this could build into a helpful reference source for others looking for alternative markings to those provided with the HAYA Chieftain tanks.

Bob.

My attempts to improve the finish on my tanks when compared with others is the lack of attention to detail in the way that parts are highlighted or weathered.

I have recently been working with oil paints to see if I can learn to apply them “like the experts”.

Obviously, I am not an expert (and never will be) but I am making some small degrees of progress.

Here is a picture of one of my HAYA Chieftains turret baskets after I have attempted to make it look a little less pristine and more like one that has seen a bit of use:

I am quite pleased with the improvement in this small area and will now try similar techniques elsewhere on the tank after referring to as many pictures of the real thing as possible so as not to just apply a uniform level of detailing/weathering to areas that need to be treated differently.

"I am quite pleased with the improvement in this small area." And you are pleased for good reason! I had no idea one might use oils on parts of AFVs as well as figures, except as a wash. What oil brand and colors did you use?
Now I have another idea to drive you nuts. It seems that the two round raised surfaces on the turret basket might be "push pin marks," marks left from pins that push the casting out of the die. These can be recessed or protruding if the pin is not perfectly level with the inside of the die. As much as possible I sand these off. In fact sanding takes most of my time when I work on an RC or static model. So sanding drives me nuts.

That’s a great effect for sure.
Very convincing

Herr Dr. Professor wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2024 8:36 pm "I am quite pleased with the improvement in this small area." And you are pleased for good reason! I had no idea one might use oils on parts of AFVs as well as figures, except as a wash. What oil brand and colors did you use?
Now I have another idea to drive you nuts. It seems that the two round raised surfaces on the turret basket might be "push pin marks," marks left from pins that push the casting out of the die. These can be recessed or protruding if the pin is not perfectly level with the inside of the die. As much as possible I sand these off. In fact sanding takes most of my time when I work on an RC or static model. So sanding drives me nuts.

I am away in the English Lake District at the moment, but when get home at the weekend I will check the brand and colour that I used.

My method is to wet the painted area with while spirits so when the thinned oil paint touches the dampened surface is runs away and does its own thing. I understand that the correct way to do this is to paint the tank with a gloss varnish first, but I am happy with my “cobble-up” (so far) as I can keep the area I am working on very local and just work on a small area at a time.