RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

greengiant wrote:The rubber looks much better then the molded plastic. If you want to make it easier to remove the rear sprocket you could make the rear side guard operational by making the hinge operational and drilling out the closure at the very rear area to accept a removable pin to keep it closed.
I thought of doing it but it didn't seem to be worth the effort unless I made them all work front to rear and that would involve constructing the internal bracing that's behind them.

You making work for me Green?????????????? Cut and hinge the rear guard????????????? ...think it would be easier to make a quick release for the upper hull lol
Thanks for the Suggestion Green...it's people like you that make this board great

The rubber guards are really good looking on yours...it's the reason I'm considering it

CARPE DIEM GREEN

ALPHA

I like that tow bar. My unit always had them in the front with a strand of razor wire on the back held in place with a metal sign pole.

I like that tow bar. My unit always had them in the front with a strand of razor wire on the back held in place with a metal sign pole.

ALPHA -You sure are right about making magnetic mounts for the hull top being easier, but if you do you will have to put stiffeners in the hull bottom as it is quite flexible unless screwed to the hull top.

trackmech81 -Most of the research I did showed at least one tank per company with the tow bar. The main reason I put it in the rear was that was out of the way in case I hit something and it requires less repositioning of the bars knuckles to attach it correctly and still have it actually be a working part. I also needed more weight in the rear and since its solid brass that gave me some.

greengiant wrote:ALPHA -You sure are right about making magnetic mounts for the hull top being easier, but if you do you will have to put stiffeners in the hull bottom as it is quite flexible unless screwed to the hull top.

I agree Green...reason I really haven't swayed from the stock screw mounts...it's solid that way....might do some reinforcement in the future...but at the moment she's fine as is ...I did have to switch to the older hull screws though...the new ones didn't have the Teeth to bite into the plastic and were a tad short to fully tighten ...I had a lot of old spares...so the issue didn't really pose a problem

I had the same problem with some of the screws and also went to my screw stockpile to get some of the older types to solve the problem. I am not big on constantly opening up the hull on any of my tanks that's why that's why I have stuck with screws. I leave the stock battery box in place even though I move all the control switches and a charging cable to somewhere that can be reached by opening a hatch or if like the Abrams there is a place they can be hidden that can be reached without turning the tank upside down. The only time I open the battery door is to replace the battery.

greengiant wrote:I had the same problem with some of the screws and also went to my screw stockpile to get some of the older types to solve the problem. I am not big on constantly opening up the hull on any of my tanks that's why that's why I have stuck with screws. I leave the stock battery box in place even though I move all the control switches and a charging cable to somewhere that can be reached by opening a hatch or if like the Abrams there is a place they can be hidden that can be reached without turning the tank upside down. The only time I open the battery door is to replace the battery.

I might move my switches too...that makes total sense with a tank of this size...I too feel HLs only benefit by leaving the mountings stock...they are way stronger that way...the only time I ever feel flex with this one is when I remove the top...with it on...it's as solid as a rock...I do admit though...in time the hull might sag inwards because of the weight of the metal road wheels...those suckers are heavy duty...three retaining screws on each to hold the halves together...really well made ....but I can always address that later there's lots of room in the bucket...so alterations can be done with ease
Hoping to have a build thread up soon...need time to take some pics...I hope you will have time to give me any critiques ...I always appreciate tips

Carpe Diem Giant

ALPHA

Glad to oblige ALPHA.
Good luck.

greengiant wrote:Glad to oblige ALPHA.
Good luck.

Thanks Giant...I'll need it... ...You'll see how a little rust has set in after I post a pic of the turret roof

ALPHA

greengiant wrote:Built SEP model that replaced the old APU. It holds the condenser coils for the turret cooling system that is used to keep the newly installed electronics packages at operating temps.
On the real tank the connections to the turret are all located under th bustle and turret. The condenser for the cooling unit is located in the turret.
Added the mesh bottom to the turret bustle rack using fiberglass window screening.

Man Green...just finished the major work on my APU...it was fun...but how did you keep your eyes from bugging out ....the vent work is tedious to say the least

ALPHA