RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Today I will describe how I've prepared the welds and the indicated burning cuts on the armor plates.
First I've scratched with the back of the scalpel the contour of the welds. The burning cuts I've also scratched with the back of the scalpel. Don't exert too big pressure to the scalpel, because the back has sharp edges and then it makes quickly deep scratches. The burning cuts should have been only superficially. Thereafter I'm going with an old toothbrush over the scratches and brush away the small shavings. Finally I grind over the scratches to break the sharp edges. (sounds like a poem )
After preparation of the burning cuts I deepened the indicated welds with a Dremel and a pointed milling cutter a bit and simultaneously widened until it corresponded my personal taste.
With me it looked then like this…
Thereafter I've kneaded the Apoxie and rolled it to small sausages. With the scalpel I've worked it into the cracks and formed then with the syringe needle or with the scalpel the welds. The structure of the welds must be a bit stronger, because the Apoxie is shrinking a little bit during drying.
Pictures...
Here also already to see are the lifting mushrooms and the screw blocks at the gun mantlet.
I have also fitted three “LOST-Erkennungstafeln” (identity plates for combat gas) holders and welds on the turret roof.
Up to the next report…

Mein Gott! the detail is stunning! I have this one tagged to watch all the time! LOL! Can't wait to see the next update!

The detail you have added to this model is fantastic! If these pics were in black and white and there were no size reference in the background you'd swear they were the real thing! Can't wait to see it finished!

Fantastic build with great attention to detail and a very good tutorial. Looking forward to seeing the project progress.

Cheers,

Stu

Thanks Guys for your nice comments, it makes me really proud that my Panther finds so great approval. And I will promise, it goes on, already soon.

very nice indeed
should be all done for the spring offensive?
good work fella
cheers
lister

lister fiend wrote:very nice indeed
should be all done for the spring offensive?
good work fella
cheers
lister

Many thanks lister.
But I don't believe that my Panther will be ready for a battle in the coming spring offensive, until then it's only still a month. A bit more patience please; the next springtime comes with safety too...

I’ve stopped with welds - now it goes on with welds, almost the last at the commander's cupola on the turret.
There is nothing new to say, so again, just pictures.
Also the eyelets for camouflage material I've welded...
It's not unusual, but nevertheless I will show my attachment of the cover on the drive sprocket. First it looked once more like this...
It makes no sense to glue the cover on the sprocket, because you must remove it for sure sometimes, therefore the solution with neodymium magnets. I think they had a diameter of 6 mm. And on this topic here are now the rest of the pictures.
So then, up to the next report.

As already indicated, I've replaced the Tamiya electronic against ElMod Eco with Blaster; Tamiya could not really convince me.
The ground plate for receiving the control unit is so remained; the ElMod board needs less space than Tamiya. First I have the Eco board screwed onto my ground plate and the motors wired.
The next step was the wiring of the rear light; it's nice that the diodes of the illumination can be connected directly to ElMod without resistor. The cable from the rear light I've guided past along the right side of the speaker box.
The front MG is now installed and can be wired.
The recoil unit from Tamiya I kept, but I had to replace the micro-switch and to make some adjustments.
On the adapter cable from ElMod and also at the Tamiya electronics were used BEC sockets and plugs. I've maintained this partially, but I have also used socket or pin connectors (for lighting). The connections for the recoil unit I've not directly plugged into the ElMod board. It's a precaution in case that the recoil unit is difficult to move.
So are Mass and Plus directly connected to the battery, the impulse for the recoil unit comes from pin 4 of the board (via adapter cable).
For the muzzle flash I've used a clear LED, its bright enough and cheap. For the delay in the return of the recoil unit, I've used 5 diodes (1N4001) in series and the whole thing looks very passable.
Here are a few photos.
It goes on in the next part.

cant wait to hear you fire it up take it for a drive ( all in a exlusive video for us )