TAMIYA M1A2 Displaymodel

kintaroukinji · Post by **kintaroukinji** » Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:58 am

Since SAPU was replaced with VCSU, the APU air duct on the turret was removed. The back of the VCSU and the air duct to the turret were also scratch built. This is not a place that looks carefully in detail, so I thought it would be good if the whole looked like that.

This photo shows the turret turned 90 degrees and viewed from below and above.

I also need to attach an additional bustle that was scratch built to the main bustle. Considering the strength, it is not possible to simply bond (the bonding area is small), and it seems necessary to consider a mounting method such as bolting like an actual tank. (If it is 1/35, there is no problem simply by bonding.)

Since the crosswind sensor is also a folding type, it should have a hinge at the base, but this model is also omitted. I feel that the anti-slip on the tank surface is too fine for 1/16 scale. Although Tamiya installed anti-slip on the 1/16 and 1/48 scale ABRAMS tank models for the first time, the texture of this 1/16 scale anti-slip is not very impressive. In the case of HengLong, there is no anti-slip (this woule be a copy of TAMIYA 1/35 scale, so it may be natural), so I will decide to install the anti -slip without hesitation. However, I am at a loss whether or not the anti-slip expression should be modified for this model.

The shape of the joint weld line between the upper hull and lower hull in front of the tank is also strange for Tamiya's 1/35 and 1/16 scale models (straight-cut shape). In this box art, the weld line is drawn correctly. In the case of RC tanks, it may be unavoidable because it is necessary to remove the upper hull (but it would be nice to think a little more ...), but 1/35 is not good. I will give up on the rework here. To conceal this, there is a way to attach the tow bar to the front, however the handling of this tow bar can be cumbersome when the upper hull is removed. Shackles are not included at all. If this model is assembled after factory shipment without any detailing or modification according to the instructions, the appearance of the finished product (apart from painting) will be almost at the TOY level.

BarryC · Post by **BarryC** » Sat Sep 14, 2019 2:45 pm

Ducting looks great!

Barry

kintaroukinji · Post by **kintaroukinji** » Sun Sep 15, 2019 1:31 pm

Barry, thank you for your comment. I am very referring to your excellent work and articles in detailing this model. I also make a brass railway model, but the detailing skill of my 1/16 tank model doesn't reach your skill very much.

kintaroukinji · Post by **kintaroukinji** » Sun Oct 13, 2019 2:52 pm

This M1A2 model kit has no shackles on the front and rear of the tank.
The shape of the shackle is an ? type, which is different from the familiar U-shape on German tanks.
After all, there is no other option than building from scratch. (3D printer products are quite expensive.)
The Japanese "Amour Modeling" monthly magazine describes how to make this 1/16 Abrams shackle, so I started making it accordingly.
The method consists of laminating two 2mmt plastic plates, cutting them into shackles, bonding 4mm thick plastic pipes, and rounding them with a sponge file. Make a copy of it as a prototype.

: A shackle shape drawn on a plastic board; DSC_2048_01.JPG (37 KiB) Viewed 3763 times

However, this method is very troublesome and time-consuming for me. After all, I abandoned this method halfway and decided to bend the 1.5mm? brass rod into the shackle shape and cut and solder the brass outer diameter 2.3mm pipe. This is easier to manufacture and the shape of the rounded part is also beautiful. The right is made of brass (painted), and the left is a plastic shackle. The plastic has not been rounded yet.

: Plastic shackle in production and brass shackle

There is no need for copying because brass is less time-consuming to produce. I made a total of four for the front and rear. This is also stronger than the shackle made of plastic.

Next is the exhaust deflector installed in the exhaust port of the tank. Since the exhaust of the gas turbine engine is hot, it is installed to prevent burns. It ’s not necessary for diesel engines like other tanks. I made ?his with a plastic board. Inside the deflector there are things like mounting reinforcements or rectifying plates.

I tried to attach shackles and an exhaust deflector. The tank body has not been painted yet.
There still seems to be a part that needs to be modified and improved in detail, but I think that it will be endless when detailing this model.

kintaroukinji · Post by **kintaroukinji** » Sat Oct 26, 2019 10:53 am

I installed a scratch-built additional bustle rack behind the main rack. The method of attaching to the main rack was to place a small concave block against the vertical column of the main rack from the back as shown in the photo of the actual tank, and bolt the additional rack together with the block. (However, brass wire was used in the model instead of bolts.)
Jerry cans (these are not current US military types) and US military storage box are temporarily placed on the rack.

Since the crosswind sensor piole is retractable, I reproduced a dummy hinge at the base of the pole, and added resting support at the rear of the turret to use when folding the pole. (Both are omitted in this model, but are reprsented in 1/35 scale...)
Since these are simple shapes, I would like to say that TAMIYA should not omit them on an expensive 1/16 scale. The tank model on the right is a 1/35 Meng model.

43rdRecceReg · Post by **43rdRecceReg** » Sat Oct 26, 2019 12:00 pm

I just read the whole thread though, with great interest.

I'm very impressed with what you've achieved so far, and applaud you improvisational eye

At the same time, I really like the idea of picking the best bits, from a variety of platforms, to make the ideal (hybrid) model.
I'm a fan of the Tamiya chassis (especially the alloy base that's usually there in kits), as well as the overall look of their shells... but find the electronics uninspiring these days, if dependable. Worse still, the individual DMD units are prohibitively expensive if bought outside of the equally pricey Full-option kit. An Elmod unit costs less than the average DMD these days...(In Britain, anyway), and has- by all accounts- far more to offer than mere dependability.
I have the static version of the Jagdpanther, and aim to make it a runner. But, much as I like Tamiya gearboxes, they're also in the way too expensive bracket; so I'll take a broader view of running gear and other internals after reading this. That said, I'm awestruck with the look of ETO transmissions for Tamiya vehicles- including the Jadgpanther; but they're very expensive, and after postal and customs charges, I'll be washing dishes somewhere to make up the cost.

Following along...

jarndice · Post by **jarndice** » Sat Oct 26, 2019 12:08 pm

The problem with "ETO" Gearboxes is as I understand it they are made in the Ukraine and exported to the USA and sold from there

If they were sold from the place of manufacture they would be much more affordable to us Europeans.

43rdRecceReg · Post by **43rdRecceReg** » Sat Oct 26, 2019 6:17 pm

jarndice wrote:The problem with "ETO" Gearboxes is as I understand it they are made in the Ukraine and exported to the USA and sold from there
If they were sold from the place of manufacture they would be much more affordable to us Europeans.

Maybe someone could have a word in the ear of the President there, to make it happen, Shaun

Does this also mean that Ukrainians have no access to their own product, then? That's terrible

kintaroukinji · Post by **kintaroukinji** » Sun Oct 27, 2019 7:38 am

Thank you for your comment. This is the first time that I have hybridized the TAMIYA 1/16 model. TAMIYA's full operation kit is high quality and attractive, but expensive. Moreover, it is difficult to change its operation function. There is much room for remodeling and ditelling the appearance. In Japan, DMD can be purchased as an after-part from TAMIYA at a lower cost than ELMOD. The completeness as one product is excellent for TAMIYA full operation, but a third-party sound controller is good for me because I can enjoy my favorite functions and sounds.

43rdRecceReg · Post by **43rdRecceReg** » Sun Oct 27, 2019 8:21 am

kintaroukinji wrote:Thank you for your comment. This is the first time that I have hybridized the TAMIYA 1/16 model. TAMIYA's full operation kit is high quality and attractive, but expensive. Moreover, it is difficult to change its operation function. There is much room for remodeling and ditelling the appearance. In Japan, DMD can be purchased as an after-part from TAMIYA at a lower cost than ELMOD. The completeness as one product is excellent for TAMIYA full operation, but a third-party sound controller is good for me because I can enjoy my favorite functions and sounds.

Out of curiosity, how well are the Heng Long gearboxes performing with the Tamiya running gear? In general, I find there is a quality and precision feel to Tamiya transmission assemblies. Everything fits where it should, and kits always seem to have the correct screws, bolts, and other fixings. By contrast, the reaming, thread repair, and minor surgery sometimes needed with Asiatam, Taigen, and Heng Long running gear, is almost totally absent with Tamiya products.

However, many feel the track tensioners in some models should be replaced with Henntec alternatives.

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