RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

greengiant wrote:I can't find your Abrams thread , tell me where to look.
The problem with the metal tracks is that the don't have rubber pads which would be helpful with some grip on smooth surfaces. I'd look for the after market ones that have the metal sprocket and tracks with rubber pads. The metal road wheels will be heavier than the plastic ones and the real Abrams has aluminum road wheels to keep the sprung weight down so the wheel can react more quickly and keep engaged with the track at speed over rough terrain as there is no provision for a track tensioner in the Abrams design. Don't think that will matter in the model as the road wheel arm springs are quite stiff.

Greetings Green... I have different feelings about the rubber padded tracks....the rubbers don't really stay on unless you pay attention to them...so far I like the full metal hardware...here's the thread...didn't put it in the build section as I really have started much... I only had time to mod the exhaust vents on the roof and tail so far viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17775...for my exhaust ...I did an application like some of my other tanks...where I hide the a box behind the rear bulkhead...then opened up the gap between the stock holes ...the first tank I used that method on was my KV

ALPHA

I see that you haven't done much so far. There are no exhaust vents on the turret roof so I think you opened up the ammo blow off panels? Am looking forward to seeing where you go with it.
On mine I thought of opening up the exhaust grill and backing it with collector box for the smoke to go into before goes out the grill but the cast grating is so fine that opening up all those little slots would take forever and at the time I just didn't want to take the time.
I see you removed the APU to turret connector molded in piece. That will be correct if you don't put the APU in the Bustle and do some other minor mods to the turret roof and commanders machine gun mount to make it more like a M1A1 Abrams that is pictured on the HL box side (picture on the right). I had almost done that when I got hooked on making the A2SEP2 version which had just made its way to Iraqi near the end of hostilities when all 3 versions, The A1, A2, and A2SEP2 were being used at the same time. The A2SEP3 which is now in use has yet to be used in battle but is prepositioned in Germany.

greengiant wrote:I see that you haven't done much so far. There are no exhaust vents on the turret roof so I think you opened up the ammo blow off panels? Am looking forward to seeing where you go with it.
On mine I thought of opening up the exhaust grill and backing it with collector box for the smoke to go into before goes out the grill but the cast grating is so fine that opening up all those little slots would take forever and at the time I just didn't want to take the time.
I see you removed the APU to turret connector molded in piece. That will be correct if you don't put the APU in the Bustle and do some other minor mods to the turret roof and commanders machine gun mount to make it more like a M1A1 Abrams that is pictured on the HL box side (picture on the right). I had almost done that when I got hooked on making the A2SEP2 version which had just made its way to Iraqi near the end of hostilities when all 3 versions, The A1, A2, and A2SEP2 were being used at the same time. The A2SEP3 which is now in use has yet to be used in battle but is prepositioned in Germany.

OH...is that what that was...wondered why there was a hole in it....turned out to be a bigger job than it looked....the entire area had to be re-sculpted ....instead of making a baffle like you did... I used that box...recycled it...and used it for the exhaust ...the APU came separate already...the photos I have up are of the kit as it came....The com Hatch looks rather tricky to remove...I may just leave it...but I still have to inspect the connection...haven't opened the turret yet
The one thing I am liking..is the quality of the plastic...HL kept it thick
I think in keeping with my collection...I will stick to the early version...did you change out any of the grips and handles...the one that doesn't do it for me is the one molded over the engine grill under the turret

The reason I asked if you did any of the grill work was because of the fragility of the right side...the way it is..if hollowed out...it looks like it will weaken the hull quite a bit...with that said though...as I worked on my smoker last evening...I noticed something included in the molding of those engine compartments...so I'm going to try something to the small grill under the turret first...if it looks ok...then I'll do the rest

ALPHA

As for the rear grills, only the center one is an exhaust grill for the main engine on the M1, M1A1 and the M1A2. On mine which represents the A2SEP2 the apu intake is on the left side of the tank and exhausts out the slanted box that I built to the left of the engine grills. The unit on the bustle is a air conditioner condenser. The compressor was moved inside the turret.
The commander copula may be able to be removed easily and made movable if you can find something that will melt away the liberal coating of the glue HL used installing it, without also melting or softening the plastic.
I thought of replacing all the rear deck lift handles with ones made of wire but decided that since so many are covered by the turrets rear overhang that it wasn't worth the effort. The only wire handles I made are those on the top of the left rear hull sponsoon were the new hatches are for the new APU location and the handles for the loaders and commanders machine guns.
If you can find something with small enough holes to replace the molded in grills on the rear deck of the hull please say what you use as the turbine intake grills really need to be replaced with something that will let sound and air movement. I thought of using the black debris screens from Tamiya's Pershing but they are just floppy cloth and not big enough.
The hull as it is has no way for air to circulate and for sound to get out as there are no openings in the hull. That's one of the reasons I made the drivers hatch workable.
When you open the turret you will see why it is necessary to make the cut to the rear of the bottom like I did so the bustle racks stay with the turret top.

greengiant wrote:As for the rear grills, only the center one is an exhaust grill for the main engine on the M1, M1A1 and the M1A2. On mine which represents the A2SEP2 the apu intake is on the left side of the tank and exhausts out the slanted box that I built to the left of the engine grills. The unit on the bustle is a air conditioner condenser. The compressor was moved inside the turret.
The commander copula may be able to be removed easily and made movable if you can find something that will melt away the liberal coating of the glue HL used installing it, without also melting or softening the plastic.
I thought of replacing all the rear deck lift handles with ones made of wire but decided that since so many are covered by the turrets rear overhang that it wasn't worth the effort. The only wire handles I made are those on the top of the left rear hull sponsoon were the new hatches are for the new APU location and the handles for the loaders and commanders machine guns.
If you can find something with small enough holes to replace the molded in grills on the rear deck of the hull please say what you use as the turbine intake grills really need to be replaced with something that will let sound and air movement. I thought of using the black debris screens from Tamiya's Pershing but they are just floppy cloth and not big enough.
The hull as it is has no way for air to circulate and for sound to get out as there are no openings in the hull. That's one of the reasons I made the drivers hatch workable.
When you open the turret you will see why it is necessary to make the cut to the rear of the bottom like I did so the bustle racks stay with the turret top.

When I did my T34 ...Dgsellkirk gave a tip on the screens...frying pan spatter screens of all things....they didn't look good on the T34 ...but the mesh is perfect for this tank
I'm going to keep mine as close to stock as possible...so just minor changes will be necessary...the paint is a different story...not sure if I will go green camo like yours...or just all "Sander's " Green like my Shermans
She's a great looking tank...I don't regret the wait ...or picking it up

Thanks again for the tips Green

ALPHA

I'll check out that as a source for screens but I used to have one and the squares were as big as those on window screens. That was quite a while ago though maybe the newer ones are much smaller.
You should pick out a completely new color for your modern tanks that's close enough to your "Sander's" green to be relevant to your older tanks but different enough to be like a high power elite unit. Just a thought.
One thing, if you remove the rear dust shield like I did on one side you will have to take care when driving sharp turns or pivoting at speed you will shed tracks just like the real ones do.

greengiant wrote:I'll check out that as a source for screens but I used to have one and the squares were as big as those on window screens. That was quite a while ago though maybe the newer ones are much smaller.
You should pick out a completely new color for your modern tanks that's close enough to your "Sander's" green to be relevant to your older tanks but different enough to be like a high power elite unit. Just a thought.
One thing, if you remove the rear dust shield like I did on one side you will have to take care when driving sharp turns or pivoting at speed you will shed tracks just like the real ones do.

I'll probably try to make a build thread Giant...the mesh on the spatter screen isn't square like what is normally used ...this one is diamond shaped just like the screens molded on the body ...it was too fine for my T34 ...but is almost a perfect match for the Abrams
I agree on the paint...just can't decide...because a camo paint scheme would set it apart...the markings bringing it back into the Genre ...it will require some thought lol... at least the little details will keep me busy till I reach that point

Thanks for the Input Green ...Much appreciated

ALPHA

PS...As with most of my other tanks...I probably won't remove too much of the body castings...I'm still thinking about doing the mud guards though

If you do the mudguards are you referring to the ones that I changed to rubber? The ones at the rear are metal on the real tank to keep big chunks of stuff from being thrown up onto the rear deck when the tank is at speed.

greengiant wrote:If you do the mudguards are you referring to the ones that I changed to rubber? The ones at the rear are metal on the real tank to keep big chunks of stuff from being thrown up onto the rear deck when the tank is at speed.

Yup the rubber front guards....not going to touch the rear ...even though it would make removing the sprocket a lot easier

ALPHA

The rubber looks much better then the molded plastic. If you want to make it easier to remove the rear sprocket you could make the rear side guard operational by making the hinge operational and drilling out the closure at the very rear area to accept a removable pin to keep it closed.
I thought of doing it but it didn't seem to be worth the effort unless I made them all work front to rear and that would involve constructing the internal bracing that's behind them.