RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

Thanks for the tips on the Bondo. I will see if I can find some.

Auto parts stores and also the big box home repair stores carry it.

Slight change of plans. Obviously need to order a HL M4A3 for the build (have been borrowing the M10's lower). Would like an upgraded trans, reinforced hull and then modify it to fit the Tamiya hull. Well then it dawned on me, my M4 composite has those features and metal drive sprockets, tracks (steel bar cleat) and idlers and the hybrid hull was a Tamiya. So eventually I'll get a replacement for the composite but now I can continue on with the build.

I did have to swap bogies with the M36 because Sassgrunt's awesome dished wheels weren't available in time for D-Day (the bogies are slightly modified, Mike's wheels have bearings).



The modified hull has aluminum on the floor and walls. I always top the floor with styrene for a glue surface.



There will be a drum on the right side drive sprocket for hoisting the crane, not sure if the plastic sprocket one would be strong enough. The T-49 steel cleat track was installed on nearly all of the pilots and early builds (the ones in time for D-Day).



And finally, I finished the ladder rungs on the boom. Low man on the crew was probably elected high man on the crane...



Perhaps elected is the wrong word...

Needed a smaller wire, somewhere between thread and kite string. Put that picture hanging wire in the drill chuck and anchored to other end. Unwrapped the bundle and pulled out a third of the wires. Tape was needed because the chuck could not grip the small bundle. Spun the drill again to make a new cable. Used a single strand of automotive wire to wrap around cable fold, with a dab of CA glue.

I am really enjoying you work Eric. Your level of DIY is impressive.

I know I shared this with Herr Dr. before but I've had very good experience using Paracord strands for rope and wire. It's strong & flexible and takes painting well and is inexpensive. Only negative is it frays easily and you need to burn the ends as soon as you cut them.



Keep it up, lookin good

Great tip, where is it available?

Sporting goods stores, hiking or hunting shops.

550 "paracord" parachute cord is what you're looking for. The outside color doesn't make a difference since you cut and discard the outside sheath. You use the 7 doubled inner strands which are white and synthetic.

https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/ge ... r30ftrncac

I've also seen it at Homedepot.

I'll look for it next time I'm out. Thanks.

Impressive scratchbuilding skills Ecam, I enjoy your work a lot. The M32 is a fav of mine, keep up the good work !

Thank you Monsieur Tox, it is always great to have you looking in!

I figured magnets are not going to cut it for mounting the upper to lower with the crane thing. The front of the hull nest in the trans mount. I made a mount for the rear that will be bolted. Great thing on this build is the rear deck will be covered with three boxes and a variety of pulleys, stop blocks and what nots, will be no issue hiding the screw heads. Yes it will take extra time for battery changes, but I think it is worth the effort. If needed there might be some mounts under the ventilators, but we'll wait on that for now.