RC Tank Warfare community hobby forum

I'm loving your work Louis!

Terrific work as always, Louis! Just the right attention to detail, and photographed so well.

Thank you MrChef and Estnische,

The following posts are the planning phase for the upper hull.


Starting with the headlights and guards.

Below is what we should expect for any regular M60 tank. Two standard US headlights, under a gently curved guard for the M60. For the M-60A1 with ERA, the base is hidden by the blocks but it is still the standard headlights setup.

The guards are made of two components, bolted at the joint.


What i initially thought was a solid metal bar forged with the specific curve is actually L shaped, not a U, and there is a bracket at the back.


It was a shock when i noticed the Tongde M60A1 model came with these. It is the same situation with the Israeli M60 version. As for the M-60A3, it come with lower headlights but the curved guards are still too high.


As mentioned in the first post, these would be somewhat acceptable if the model was coming with a dozer blade. These raised headlights are meant to project above the blade when it is installed. Without dozer blade, the model looks really weird. Either the model designer used the wrong source, specifications or intended of making a dozer blade and later changed mind, we don't know. Crafting that dozer blade and mounts would be a major challenge...


I therefore removed everything. Even the base plate on the fenders will be totally removed as i calculated they are too short but i will double check that because the 1/35 kit might not be accurate there.


The headlights can be reused. However, i can't believe the designers did not use one of the empty hole to put their LED. They actually put it in the middle of the headlight part between the two holes for the lamps, and then painted it over. Oh boy. The whole thing need rework.


Moving to the driver's hatch and periscopes. This is the 1/35 Academy kit.


Compare the above with the TONGDE 1/16 representation. Raised hatch, tiny periscopes at the wrong place... But there is more at play here than misplaced periscopes. The hatch access is actually too far back. Which is strange because the spacing between the hatch and the turret ring looks ok. After more analysis, it is the turret ring diameter that is actually undersize by probably 4mm. So, in addition to a new hatch and periscopes, the whole access need to be moved forward. I do not intend on changing the turret ring diameter.


Continuing on following posts.

The periscope for the M60 driver as they should be.


View of the driver's access.


The shape of the hatch compared to the Academy 1/35 kit would not be that bad if it wasn't inverted... The hatch, access and periscopes will have to be redone.


The side bins as they should be.


Dimensions are not bad but the shapes are much simplified. The opening lid will need to be carved out to show the separations, and the embossed stiffeners redone with half rods.


Detail on the handle is minimal.


I have these Schumo M26 Pershing bin handles. At first look, they seem to still be a perfect match for the M60. Axels sells these once in a blue moon so when they are available, stock up on them for future builds. The locks need to be crafted with thin plasticard.


Moving on to the air filters. This is how they should be.


In addition to the embedded filters on the upper hull, these additional parts are provided for the tip and the side bin.


Continuing on following posts.

The air filters coming with the model. Not bad at all. Dimensions and shape are pretty good. That side bin need to be cleaned up and positioned better. Some bolts heads are required here and there, a plasticard strip at the bottom, and some engraved lines are needed. Otherwise, the air filters are good.


Side bin should be positionned like this.


Comparing the 1/35 side filters with the 1/16 model.


This is the Academy 1/35 rear deck. This is one thing that no one wants to redo.


The TONGDE rear deck is good. Basic shapes and dimensions are accounted for. I can spot a few structural errors but they are minor and not worth a rework in my view. Need to add a connection between the air filters and the main engine block.


Those vents have no inclinations but redoing these would be very difficult. Notice the badly located trap for the on/off switch. Its almost under the turret basket. I will glue it shut.


Fuel caps can be improved but not sure they actually show under the turret. The air intake pipes could be shortened but it would be difficult.


Horizontal view of the rear deck.


That huge gap at the back needs fixing. Don't know if it shows on all examples.


Side by side comparison.


Continuing on following posts

For those, like me, who thought of maybe one day transplant the TONGDE M-60 rear deck into a Centurion (I mean once Tongde parts are available separately) to make a Sho't Kal Gimel or Dalet, be aware that the Continental engine deck of the Sho't kal is similar but far from identical to the M60. And the dimensions are not the same. Below is my Sho't Kal Gimel rear deck hand crafted from a 1/35 kit specifications to fit a Ludwig 1/16 Centurion base, provided for comparison.


M60 fender's brackets have holes in them.


The model's fender brackets seem to lack some height. But most of them are impossible to rework unless the whole fenders are redone. So far, i see no reason to. The holes can be reproduced where possible. The brackets can be improved with more details and bolt heads.


The gun travel lock compared to the 1/35 kit. The basic shape is there. I think some carving can help making it thinner and better. But the diameter of the hole for the gun seems very small. More analysis is required when the 105mm gun is in place. Otherwise, it will need replacement.


This is it for the planning. Next step is to take one item at a time. This is fun.


Regards, Louis

Nice job so far. As far as the storage bin handles go, they are the same handles on the Abrams, Bulldog, M60, and Pershing. They haven't changed since WW2. Andy makes them in resin if you can't find or don't want to pay the price for the Schumo ones. I have both the Schumo ones and the Special Ops version Andy makes. Both are the same quality for detail. The Schumo ones are nice because they are metal and you get 14 of them, but I personally haven't seen them in stock anywhere in the last few years. The Special Ops version comes with 8 as he was making them for the Abrams and they are always in stock on the US Ebay site.

Louis, I am sure you will change those fuel caps They look so bad and the Mato M10 versions are a good starting point.

An always overlooked AFV...............mainly as no one has made them readily available until now.
Another astonishing transformation on its way without doubt.

Stunning build as usual!